bramfrank

Saw this on CNET. The subscription will probably kill the deal. We have a member here who has been developing something similar that runs on an Arduino (if memory serves).

They do just pop out - you use a trim tool (a plastic pry tool) to get them out. You will find directions in the backup camera installation manual, which is posted here: http://starparts.chrysler.com/info/default/K6861161.pdf

They only assemble them in Mexico.

But the real problem is that for some unknown reason over the past 15 or so Chrysler has been putting half the bottle in the pressurised coolant loop, rather than what they used to do, which was to use the bottle solely to catch overflow - it is the pressure that kills the bottle, because under repeated heating and cooling cycles the plastic eventually becomes brittle - if it wasn't for the pressure, even as a brittle plastic bottle it wouldn't break - and if it did, the entire contents of the cooling system wouldn't be dumped on the street. So tell me, which is more environmentally friendly? Not spilling a few gallons of coolant on the ground? Or using a larger plastic bottle that requires more fitings to tie it into the vehicle's plumbing and is almost guaranteed to eventually spill toxic coolant all over the place AND is likely cause the engine to severely overheat? There is no reason why they couldn't leave the cap on the top of the radiator (or even above the thermostat, the way my motorcycle does) and go back to using the plastic bottle solely for non-pressurised overflow capture.

Ummm . . . yes, it was, though perhaps your dealer didn't bother mentioning it to you and I suspect you didn't ask. OEM extended warranties have been around since at least the early 1980s. For the Chrysler family products I've owned I bought a plan for my then-new 2000 Chrysler LHS and for my 2011 Journey and for my 2014 Journey - same plan numbers, same coverage, different prices. Even the darned brochure for the zero deductible plans hasn't been updated since 2002: http://www.chryslercanada.ca/owners/en/pdf/max.pdf

That would be wrong. You can buy bumper to bumper OEM coverage from to 160,000 km and 7 years with, or without a $100 deductible.

No, they don't design them to do this, though they COULD. However they don't exactly over-engineer these things.

Your battery may still be bad . . . . what diagnostic code is shown? As to the 'hard' brake pedal, that is absolutely normal once the vacuum has bled off.

Nope. No memory. Looking at the wiring diagram, the link to which was posted a few topics ago, there is a significant difference in the wiring between the base (express down, driver's side only) and premium (express up and down on both sides) control systems. The basic system is traditional, power-through-switches-to-motor based and the premium uses a canbus interfaced controller with hall effect sensors in the motor assemblies. So it isn't going to be a 'change the switch' mod and likely also involves the addition of sales codes to the vehicle's BCM.

It's there - there's a connection right at the back of the radio, though I have no idea whether it is a switched voltage or just a low level signal - you'll need to measure it. What I DIDN'T find was the Bluetooth module.

Actually, 8.4 . . . . Try the power cycle - disconnect for 30 minutes and hope . . I'll assume you are out of warranty and did not buy an extended plan? I suppose it *might* be a loose connector to the radio or display (though if the display goes out I can't imagine why it would take out the heated seats if they were on. Ebay can be a relatively inexpensive source of replacement parts if it comes down to that. The radio and screen are easy to remove.

Cheapo HID conversations are crap, and not street legal - if you go HID put in proper, approved projectors. If you just more light out of the main reflectors, consider HIR bulbs - you'll get about 80% more light, and it will be the same colour as the factory bulbs.

Interesting - yet another of those 'they do it different in Canada' things - the models are unchanged for '16 in Canada, so we have no 'plus'. Yet even so, ours come with the dual express up and down in both FWD and AWD versions. I strongly suspect that it would be more than just a switch change since there is a 'learn' component to the switch operation - perhaps a sales code needs to be added, or maybe there's some sort of current monitor in the motor assembly - you'd need to have a close look at the drawings and parts lists to be certain,

I'm surprised they proposed the solution they did - after all, the problem is that a heavy enough ring of keys attached to the fob can torque it to the 'off' position. Sort of like the old story about the doctor giving advice to a patient who is complaining that he has pain whenever he twists his leg in a certain way . . . . 'just don't do that'. In the aircraft industry the solution would have been to supply a sticker to affix to the console warning that this is a possibility and that would have been the end of it. In any case, the problem is apparently pretty rare and I gather that you haven't suffered the problem, even before you removed your fob from your key ring - and you can't have the problem without your keys attached. Note that if you have enough keys even the recall won't prevent the problem - the recall simply pushes the goalposts further away.

The smallest wheels that will fit your 2010 are 16" - so you are buying new tires (and wheels if that's on your list) if you are planning to install snow tires.

Unfortunately, dealers don't repair these things, but rather just swap them out.

The quick answer is that, as you know, the contact patch is the key to cutting through deep snow - skinny does best. I opted for a separate set of 17" (steel) wheels and winter tires (without TPMS sensors) for my Journey - it was provided by my dealer at no charge as part of my purchase so I had little influence in the selection, but I will say the following: Winter driving is more about the ability of the driver than it is about the tires on the vehicle, though, of course if you try to go through a foot of hard packed snow and the vehicle lifts off the ground it doesn't matter what tires you have on the vehicle - the Journey has about 7" of ground clearance. These 'all weather' tires are new to the market - I wonder at their wear ratings during hot summer months and on abrasive road surfaces. I have read complaints that they are very noisy on dry surfaces (think summertime). Also, apparently, like most 'all purpose' solutions they are a compromise; their snow performance is reportedly less than stellar. Here's a review article for your reading pleasure: http://www.theglobeandmail.com/globe-drive/culture/commuting/are-all-weather-tires-a-good-compromise/article16190526/

The description of having to open and close the display several times to get it running before it goes completely dead suggests that there could be a wire that runs between the base and the display broken from flexing, or a switch that's gone bad.

The differences between US and European radio frequencies are; For FM: 1. The 'step' between the channels; in the US the FM channels are 200 KHz apart on odd numbers and in the EU they are 100 KHz apart (and in some countries 50 KHz apart), even or odd. 2. The pre-emphasis used to encode the signals to reduce the amount of noise - in the US they use a 50 microsecond filter and in Europe a 75 microsecond one. On AM the channels are 10 KHz apart in the US and, for some strange reason, 9 KHz apart in Europe. From what I've read, this can be set in most of the uConnect radios by the dealer using the StarScan tool - he needs to set the radio sales code to reflect the operating region - this matches what you've written. But since these codes are in the BCM, you'd think that the radio would pick them up from the vehicle . . . . . so there's a difference of some sort that makes little sense. As to your dead Bluetooth module, you might find it simpler to try and locate one from a crashed vehicle in the US (check eBay). On the other hand this thread makes me wonder whether my Canadian RB5 couldn't be set to enable the TravelLink feature by updating the region sales code? I have the subscription enabled, which shows up in the dealer menu, but there are no menu items for the feature on the radio. Again, however, if your radio didn't automatically adapt to the region specified in the BCM in the vehicle . . . . it simply doesn't make a lot of sense.

Go into the main settings menu (not the one in the nav, but rather the lower right hand icon on the main display) and select display and then under units choose US.

Have you asked the dealer about this? Usually if there's a button, it's because there's something tied to it.

There's no rain sensor in the Journey.

How about asking one of our European members to volunteer his VIN so you can place the order?

The satellite/navigation antenna is integrated into the rooftop antenna at the rear of the vehicle.

Actually, there's no motor in the base to fold the mirror.