bramfrank

That isn't going to get the OP a new set of FOBs . . . somewhere along the way the original owner replaced them and he didn't get the ones with the start button.

I suspect they won't cut the key, but if the fob works then yes, the dealer will learn it into the vehicle for a fee. If your vehicle hasn't had the recall performed you should be able to cut the key and hand this new one to the dealer without mentioning that it hasn't been paired along with your original fob and they will hand you two brand new ones back, programmed to the vehicle.

Fair question . . . . there is a suggested MSRP, but the markups are huge, so effectively the answer is that pricing is at the dealer's whim. Here is a chart of the MSRPs and the projected dealer costs that I found in the file from my negotiations for the group buy - I guess that the estimated costs in the chart are every-so-slightly high, based on my buying experience last December. But clearly prices are darned close to what they are today. Considering that plans like these have no up front costs for the dealer, if you can't get AT LEAST 25% off you may want to take a course in effective negotiating. If your dealer won't discount, go to another dealer and have a chat with their F&I person. As you can probably tell, that 5/100 plan reflects the fact that the powertrain is already covered by the original vehicle warranty. Plan Term MSRP Est Dealer Cost 415 5/100 $1,450 $725 416 6/120 $2,710 $1,440 419 7/115 $3,130 $1,660 410 7/160 $3,785 $2,010 Interesting enough, when I put the group buy together the mods on this forum refused to allow me to even mention it here for some reason.

Your dealer is overcharging you. But we do get ripped off in Canada even at the 'good' price. Start by finding out which plan numbers he's quoting you because 2 extra years, based on the bumper-to-bumper? Pure rip-off because the powertrain is already covered for 5 years. And watch the mileage and deductible. 4 extra years implies bumper to bumper coverage for 7 years which is as long as they'll go. Dealer cost for the 7/115 zero deductible plan 419 is less than $1650 - I put together a buyer's group in 2012 and paid $1680 for the one on my '11 and the dealer booked it as $1650 when I managed to get him to toss it in as a closer for my '14. Here are links to the zero and $100 deductible brochures: http://www.chryslercanada.ca/owners/en/pdf/max.pdf http://www.chryslercanada.ca/owners/en/pdf/700series.pdf

Neto; Wheels have the same bolt pattern, but the vehicle uses larger disks and calipers, so 16" wheels don't fit DJs manufactured after the middle of 2012. I had tire pressure monitors in a 2002 Chrysler, so that isn't exactly newfangled technology. I suggested rustproofing to put a stop to any corrosion that may have developed over the last 6 years - and because it helps preserve the electrical integrity of the vehicle for the same reason. Besides, it is inexpensive. Consider both age and the fact that you live in an area where they salt roads and you have no idea as to whether the vehicle has been kept outdoors in the cold during winter months (parking indoors in those environments is tough on vehicles). It costs less than $100 and certainly isn't going to hurt.

Enjoy the new ride. If you plan to hang on to it for a while I suggest you may want to have it rustproofed - it will stop any new rust from developing where the application reaches and it will help to limit the impact of corrosion on the electric wiring and connectors - it also will dampen any loose bits that may cause chassis rattles - all in all a reasonable result for a $75 investment.

Glad to hear that the problem was as simple as it was. Sorry to hear that there are so few competent technicians in your country. Brazil was one of my favourite destinations when I used to travel for business - lots of time spent in places like Sao Paulo, Rio, Belo Horizante and Campinas.

You can use 16" wheels from Town and Countries and Caravans on the older DJs . . . . . and you don't need pressure transducers - though I don't know whether the '09 would complain more than the second generation models (my first DJ was an '11) - the '11 and onward models give one single chime and illuminate a warning light the first time after changing over to non-transducer wheels and from then on they give no warnings except when looking at the TPS indicator screen where you get four sets of dashes instead of seeing the rather coarse pressure readout. The older models might chime on every start. But I'm sure it isn't anything that will bother you too much.

And if you don't normally drive on highways, the average over the previous however many miles travelled (I suspect about 25) starts to go up and your DTE will either rise (I've seen it go from 620 km after I tank up after I've spent a while driving in town to well over 700 if I then head out on to a level highway drive with the cruise set for about 110 kph) it then starts creeping down with fuel consumption when the immediate average stabilises. They need the shorter average so that the DTE doesn't jump all over the place. They use a longer average for their MPG calculations and they have no real averaging for the instantaneous economy display. In any case it doesn't matter much because none of these values is generated by lab grade instruments, they are intended to be used as guides.

Lobitz68 makes a very good point. I wonder if perhaps the RHD reflectors have a step that we don't get with the conventional reflectors, necessitating the mechanical shutter that the UK seems to have (and presumably Singapore, Hong Kong and Australia/NZ markets would as well). You are probably just fine the way you are.

Actually, while the average MPG/L/100 km values are longer term averages (I suspect based on the last 1000 miles or km), the DTE is driven by a much different algorithm, based on your current fuel usage projected over the presumed amount of fuel in your tank. Resetting the MPG value doesn't make any difference to the calculation. Temperature affects mileage, as does how hard you drive. If you were on the highway on cruise and get into stop-and-go traffic you will see very large changes in the DTE reading over relatively short distances. Big deal . . . . it doesn't mean anything, because if you are approaching a long downhill slope the range will increase hugely, and if you have to accelerate from red lights up the streets of San Francisco it will drop just as quickly. Just fill it up when the needle starts getting close to that big 'E'.

That sounds like a loose connector, likely behind the radio. It isn't hard to get to the back of the radio if you are mechanically inclined. But your vehicle is under warranty, so why not just bring it to the dealer and let them handle it?

Even if it has the mechanism and assuming that it is electrical, I suspect that the wiring for it and the required control module won't be there.

It isn't going to be just a sales code because there's nothing in the stock reflector to make this happen. I suspect that it is a shutter of some sort inside the RHD version of the reflector that can be activated from the menu in the radio. Beyond what it says in the owner's manual, the only reference to the feature as described that I've found was from someone in the UK with a Chrysler 300 who was asking what the menu item for that feature does . . . . . so perhaps it is a feature only fitted to vehicles manufactured for RHD markets. The least expensive solution is likely to buy one of the kits they sell that provide adhesive 'blocks' to mask your headlights for when you return to the UK. Alternatively you may be able to find a set of used headlights from a breaker in the UK. As to buying new reflectors, you can get aftermarket units out of China (you can often find them on eBay as well) and retrofit your vehicle. They do make them for RHD markets.

You probably should have had it rustproofed. I would have the vehicle inspected and make your decision when you know what you are dealing with. Having it rustproofed, even now, can be of benefit as it will pretty much prevent further corrosion damage, by the way. If the vehicle is ready for the scrapyard you aren't going to make much selling or trading it.

You know, the manuals are filled with descriptions of all sorts of features that have not been made available to consumers, things like headlight washers, collision warning systems, steerable headlights and more. The reason is that the text is very generic and is used for all of their models. Has this dealer EVER seen the feature on the dash of a Journey? From the description (the book for my Canadian '11 references the feature as well) it seems that all it does is to force the low beams on - possibly only for daytime running lights . . . . all it says is that the low beams are better at directing light. This may just be an example of one of those phantom features that are in the manual, but are not included in the deliverables. One minor note: North American DJs offer Metric/US measure. It is simple enough to check by comparing the fuel economy report in metric with that of the 'English' measure - it may well NOT be Imperial . . . . my late father had a Cadillac which called the non-metric setting 'English', but in reality it was US measure, based on their smaller gallon.

Interesting. In the 5 years I've owned DJs I've not set off an antitheft system once. I have had access cards that do, however. By the way, in Canada (I can't speak for the US) you can safely ignore the store staff altogether, and if they touch you at all (as in try to restrain you) it is assault. I'm in the security business and these self important store detective types have no authority whatsoever.

I tend to agree with Bigtsr - your country is hot and humid and the vehicle is almost 4 years old. Also it was shipped overseas and possibly exposed o serious salt spray. Have your mechanic check for corrosion on connectors (that means disconnecting the battery - FIRST), then unplugging and inspecting the various connectors. No-start situations usually generate codes which can help the technician diagnose a problem, whether it is a connection to a sensor of some sort or to a processor, which your mechanic believe the problem to be. If the controller was truly defective, it is most likely that the vehicle would not start at all. As to playing with wires in the back there is a module on the left side above the roof liner that, among other things handles the key fobs and remote starter security. If he didn't do this before, a quick and simple thing to try is to disconnect one of the battery wires and leave it off for 30 minutes or more, then reconnect it. The issue might something as simple as a 'glitch' - which I suspect, because the settings for your door locks and such were lost (use the touchscreen to reset them). If the problem is with the receiver/remote starter, you can actually buy them on eBay, brand new for less than US$230, though shipping to Indonesia will impact on that by a fair amount - those kits include two new FOBs, which are required when changing the RF Hub.

A fellow Montrealer . . . enjoy the new ride.

Probably brightly covered to serve as a very apparent visual cue that the recall has been performed AND to remind mechanics to remove the darned thing when they (or anyone else) may have to remove the cover . . . . .

It is 'don't install HIDs' unless you use a full projector, which is a lot of work and means modifying your reflectors. HIRs work fine, but you need to trim one tab on each bulb to make it fit. Bulbs like Silverstars are simply white/blue tinted bulbs, unless you go for high wattage bulbs, which is a very slippery slope. Daniel Stern has a bunch of useful information on the topic of bulb technology: www.danielsternlighting.com

No. You can do any of the three; Lock the door with the FOB, with the button on the handle, or simply by locking the door with the lock switch on the armrest as you exit the vehicle. It is essentially a passive system. And the vehicle has an immobiliser, whether it has an alarm or not. That is a requirement of ALL vehicles manufactured for sale in North America after some specific date long past . . . . so it is going to he a horn honking and light flashing alarm - in fact it would need to be, by definition, since an 'immobiliser' is not an 'alarm'. An alarm is an alerting system.

Why not just get the stock size? That's what I did. Wider tires don't work as well in deep snow anyway - the weight of the vehicle is distributed over a larger contact patch - it does make a difference.

Worse than that garbage excuse, is that what they told you is for the AN (the newest radio model that we can't even get in our vehicles). OUR VEHICLES DON'T HAVE A WEATHER APP - IN FACT NO APPS AT ALL!! You need to have a conversation with the management at your dealership. The advisor is an idiot. In the meantime they will need to replace your radio in any case . . . . if they can't get a replacement from FCA immediately tell them to pull one from a vehicle on the lot. They can take one from any Journey, Charger or 300 with the option. If they won't, then they can provide you with a comparable loaner vehicle, since it is obvious that you require functional navigation as a critical feature necessary to your use of the vehicle. And, if you plan to keep the vehicle and haven't bought it already, I strongly suggest you consider buying an OEM extended warranty - perhaps from a dealer that knows what it is doing.

The entire kit is $250. The part number I provided IS the rear part. And it costs about $100.