bramfrank

Yup blue dyed regular bulbs . . . . . hopefully you did NOT order the 100 watt version. But you did not get HIRs. I've been drawn in by the thread - I just ordered a set of HIR1s and HIR2s for the DJ. $73 delivered for all 4 bulbs.

THAT is quite another matter . . . . . so it 'tries to start', but 'fails'? As in it cranks but the engine doesn't catch? There will (should) be a code they can read and hopefully properly fix it . . . . make sure they know that they already tried resetting the ECU and that it is NOT a permanent solution.

The message you get when trying to start will go a long way to help diagnose the cause. If the FOB isn't being detected you'll get a message to that effect. If the vehicle isn't perceived as being in Park, you get a message that says THAT. If your brake pedal isn't pressed there's a message for that too. My vote is an improperly adjusted brake switch - when there's no vacuum and the pedal can't be depressed there probably isn't enough travel to actuate the switch. Your dealer would need to bleed off the vacuum to test this, of course.

On an '09 you can save even more money and go with 16 inch wheels and tires . . . . .

My '11, which had the 2.4 did that - and so does the 3.6 in the current one, for that matter - and not only when approaching full stop. I've always wondered about the transmission's propensity to keep engine RPMs in the torque peak, even downshifting as long as the vehicle is in motion and decellerating. It's as if they lock up the torque converter any time the vehicle isn't stopped without regard to trending speeds. - if I'd been programming the device I think that when slowing I'd have only unlocked the converter and then downshifted as the speed vs. RPMs vs. gear selection approached idle - and or if the throttle was pressed and RPMs were otherwise below the peak torque RPMs.

If you have room for the tires, the wheels take no more room, since they are in the hole!!

How much warranty do you have left? You might want to report it to the dealer if you are coming to the end of the 3 year bumper to bumper warranty, just to get the complaint on the books while the obligation to fix it remains.

As long as they fit . . . . and realise that the sidewall number is the maximum pressure for the tire when it is carrying the full rated weight and operating at highway speeds. Always use the vehicle manufacturer's pressure settings as your staring point.

17 inch tires are cheaper than 19s when it comes time to replace them and if you use steel rims for the winter setup you will not beat up your summer wheels, your tire beads will thank you because you won't be mounting tires and balancing them twice a year and you wallet will thank you because you'll save the $50 or $60 or more they'll be charging you twice per year for the swap. I went the steel wheel route.

You didn't quite read the post the way I intended it to be read; - By conversions I was referring to drop-in HID bulbs, not projectors. NO conversion is street legal without lab certification, which makes it cost prohibitive to legally put a 900x based HID bulb into a journey's reflector and they most likely WILL blind oncoming traffic on dark roads late at night. - For reference, that 'tight range' of the color spectrum' is 4200K - but HIDs come in various temps from 3200 to 12K As long as whatever you put in doesn't blind people, isn't a ridiculous color that is obviously not SAE/DOT approved and so on you aren't 'likely' to have a problem. But if a cop sees your vehicle as being markedly different from others of the same model on the road ad if he is looking for something to ticket you for, rest assured that he will hit you up with an equipment violation and a 48 hour report ticket. A ticket is a ticket as far as his sergeant is concerned. Quality auxiliary lighting can perform better than many conversions, because the housings and reflectors are purpose built. HIR is a great alternative - no, the color temp is 3200K so they don't do the 'whiter than white' thing, the light output is excellent (almost double that of the stock bulbs) and they take full advantage of the stock reflectors because they are designed as direct replacements (but for the small mod you need to do to one of the mounting tabs on the bulbs).

Actually, HIDs are available in a wide variety of colours ranging from 3200K (yellow) to 9000K (purple) and HIDs color temperatures rise as the bulbs age. You don't want to do a straight retrofit because, beyond the fact that it isn't street legal and can be dangerous to others on dark roads at night (which is why conversions aren't legal), your reflectors can pay the price by melting and burning. Even projectors require SAE/DOT approvals to be street legal - not that you are likely,to be stopped and ticketed for this, you COULD be stopped and ticketed for this!! Chopping up your reflectors to fit projectors could get expensive if you are given a 48 hour equipment violation ticket by a police officer looking to meet his quota. If you want more light you can install approved auxiliary driving lights or you can buy REAL (emphasis on that term, because there is a lot of fake crap out there, even stuff supplied by usually trustworthy brands) HIR bulbs and install those in the conventional reflector. Unlike blue-died 'high output' fake HID bulbs, these things put out almost twice the light of the stock bulbs for the same input power. The same issues impact LED conversions as well, so I suggest you save your money unless you want to do it properly.

Your American extended warranties are a lot cheaper and a lot more generous than our miserly Canadian ones, I must say. We get nothing at all when we go in for service except a bill for whatever isn't covered, and sometimes for things that are.

I don't know why you included that last sentence, since there IS no screen involved in this upgrade. As to where you buy it from, buying from eBay, for example is a no-brainer since you get their buyer protection and a full refund, including shipping if there's a problem. There are VERY few 'dealer take-outs' of Nav radios - people do NOT downgrade to remove the feature, so keep that in mind. As to warranty, your dealer can be your very best friend in that regard, should you have a problem. Where he has the will, he can find a way.

I install steel wheels with snow tires during the winter months - no rusting of the vanity wheels that way

That stuff is for cleaning leather, but it doesn't make it soft and pliable, for that you need a conditioner like Fiebing's Neatsfoot Oil.

Welcome to the group. While you can always use a dedicated navigator or even your smart phone, the infotainment system in the DJ was voted the very best in terms of it's intuitive interface and ease of use. I also did the upgrade, as have a number of members. The good news is that you already have everything you need in the vehicle with the exception of the GPS decoder. The bad news is that the GPS module is part of the vehicle's radio module. So you will need to buy the appropriate radio module - the generic model is RB5, but there are a range of part numbers for it. The module can be procured for between $600 (on eBay) and $2,000 (from your dealer) and is a 5 minute installation (then you move your Sirius subscription from your old radio to the new). It DOES require an unlock code to be used in your vehicle - we have a member on this board who can provide that information to you when the time comes.

Whether they actually make any significant changes to North American radios is questionable - the last update was 99% for foreign markets.

Just call the dealer and tell him to order in a replacement because it has happened again - and if he wants you to come in before he does his tell him that the only way would be if they have a part on the shelf to replace it 'if necessary' because this is a common problem and to do anything different would be a waste of your time and theirs. Why should you have to suffer through the issues and be without something you pay for? I still want to get first crack at one of these before the dealer does his thing - oh well . . . . ..

You don't need to check - the only unit that works in the DJ is the Panasonic. Period.

The pressure transducer on my vehicle was changed yesterday. It was stuck at the top of the gauge and the check engine light was on. Interesting enough, even though I explained that the gauge was pegged and would never go down, even with the engine off, they initially tried to warn me that it was because I had the wrong oil filter because my oil changes are done at Costco - the advisor said that there would be a $140 diagnostic charge and that I'd have to pay for the 'repair'. It didn't phase me at all; I told them to bag the filter and document the charges because Costco would be getting the bill. Then he tried to tell me how I'd have been 'much better off' getting my oil changed at the dealer (for twice the price and having to sit through a hard sell for a raft of services I didn't need on top of that, to boot). They came back a half hour later and said it was all taken care of and that there was no charge . . . . . . But I wonder, not that it affects me for the next 6.5 years; If all you had was the power train warranty, would this have been covered? After all, the sender is not part of the power train.

No, they do NOT corrode if you use the caps that come with the vehicle they are made of the same metal as the stem and the nut. There is even a warning in the LHS manual about that (can't speak for the 2010 Journey). But that picture shows the nut that holds the valve assembly in place has being cracked and the stem is corroded. I suspect the caps were not the originals. To prevent this sort of thing you can have the nuts removes and coat the threads with anti-seize.

The older metal sensors required that you use the original metal caps and internal Schrader valve assemblies - you COULD use anti-seize to reduce corrosion - those are the same ones that my old 2002 LHS used - and I ran those in Montreal's salty winter environment without ever suffering corrosion. In fact in the LHS they were extremely accurate because the car had a TPMS system that reads out each wheel (including the spare) individually in 1/8 psi steps - the newer Journey's system reads in 1 psi steps. But, if you just bought the vehicle and if it really came with a 3 year bumper-to-bumper warranty I see no reason why they shouldn't replace the sender with a new one - and correct any issues with the remaining ones. But you have the documentation. We don't. So see if there are any exclusions. You should have 36 psi in each wheel - tire pressure should be set with the tires 'cold' (at the local ambient temperature and not having been run or exposed to direct sunlight). Note that lots of pressure gauges are pretty wonky. Having a good one that is accurate should be one of your priorities. Your tires will thank you. If you measured something different, then blame the dealer that sold you the vehicle.

True, but driving with AC off and the windows UP is what I was referring to.

Welcome to the forum. That light is for the auto-dimming mirror - turning it off disables that feature. Just leave it on and a sensor in the mirror will cause it to dim if there is a lot of light hitting it from the rear when the headlights are on and the vehicle is NOT in reverse. The has tank has about a 20 gallon capacity - from 'dead empty' istshould cost ~$60 to fill at $3/gallon - but you'll never get it that low. If you want better gas mileage be very gentle on the gas pedal and do not use the air conditioning . . . . . . but that's no fun and it isn't comfortable when it is 90 degrees outside. Enjoy the vehicle. I'm on my second one.

No. It works over the cellular connection built into the new 'A' uconnect system that has apps. We don't get that radio.