bramfrank

Nope. Do you have any aftermarket accessories? Have all of the software updates been done? There were one or two to address battery rundown issue as I recall.

I'd roll it by the dealer and have them remove it since it is a result of improper preparation.

The simplest and cheapest fix would be to just remove the thing altogether.

Quite possibly a bad ground due to corrosion, or a chafed supply line or ground. . . . . .

If you decide go go for an eBay unit be aware that once a FOB has been paired to a vehicle it cannot be changed. You MUST buy a new, factory fresh FOB.

Why did you bother with the lockpick? Your dealer might have enabled the sales code for less than the cost of the device, though when you get your nav you will be happy that you can enter things while in motion, I must say . . . .

1. The number on the door sill is the value for the best efficiency - it is *not* the minimum, but it is not the maximum either. For lower rolling resistance raise it a bit, for better grip, a *bit* lower may help. 2. Different tires have different maximum tire pressures. The number on the sidewall is the maximum pressure under the full load. Do not inflate to this value under normal circumstances.

Actually, I think you should use 235/45/20 - which is narrower still, though is still a half inch wider than the factory tire and is 1.4% lower profile . . . . Increasing the tire pressure will firm up the sidewalls and reduce the amount of bulge which might help with the shredding if indeed the tires are hitting the suspension . . . . but if it helps, it highlights the fact that your present tires are too wide for the vehicle.

DJMaybe - yup, wAAAAAAy too much money for that vehicle. If it was an AWD with 40000 miles it'd be worth between $9900 and $12,600 - knock off $1500 if it is FWD, according to cars.com. This is for a private sale. Trade value is about $1700 less than that. You can find new 2014s out there and the base AVP costs less than $20K new, so you do the math. Buying a new one gets you the factory warranty (and the option to buy an extended factory warranty too).

There are lots of them for sale on eBay . . . . if you are putting them on regular steel rims then they should all fit.

I missed the issue of tire size . . . . As pointed out by dhh3 you need to also consider tire width - the unit you plan to install is very wide . . . The correct size would be 220/50R20 - same diameter and width as factory but for a 20 inch wheel. But they don't make this size for automobiles. The narrowest common production 20" tire with about the right height would be 235/45R20 assuming your wheels aren't too wide for the 9.25" width - it is still .5" wider than stock, but a LOT narrower than what you have planned - and the speedometer will be about 1.4% higher. If the wheels are wider you can go for a slightly taller tire, like a 245/45/20 - it is going to be very, very close. But the 245/45/20 would be the same diameter as stock, so the speedo would be right at least and the 245 would at least be an inch narrower than the tire you proposed.

To start; You are running the tire pressure way too low, which is why the edges wear before the middle . . . . tire pressure should be set to 248 or 255 kpa all around with cold tires - and use a good pressure gauge to measure it. The road surface can also be a contributor - if you drive on abrasive surfaces (in the United States they often pave roads using a technique called 'chipseal' where they embed an abrasive into the road surface) tires will wear as though you used sandpaper (which chipseal surfaces closely resemble). Then there is the tire itself - a 'performance' tire made of soft compounds will not last long - the DJ is no lightweight. Durable tires are one of the keys. That durability is one of the items specified in US tires that may (or may not) be required in other countries. The treadwear rating is what it is called - and the higher the number, the longer the tire is likely to last. Please keep us informed of your progress.

Perhaps I misunderstood this post

Looks like you are about 75% of the way to hacking the vehicle configuration . . . . not sure you should be PR-ing development in a forum that the manufacturer watches, mind you. Keep up the good work.

My buddy just replaced his way overpriced fully tricked out leased Ford pickup with a brand new one with the entire tech package - the motivator was that he needed brakes and tires and while his lease wasn't up, for some reason they are a lot more aggressive doing upgrades than they are at end-of lease. So he got a new vehicle that listed at >$15K more than the old with no cash down and is paying the exact same amount of money every month - and of course he saved the expense of four very large and expensive tires and a full set of brakes, restarted the warranty, his Sirius subscription . . . . and they didn't hit him up for paint damage because there was no end-of-lease inspection. So just give the sales guy a price that is somewhat below what you want to pay for the target vehicle and make THEM work to have it fit YOUR pricing - it cuts both ways - they are often hot enough to close the deal that they will chop the price well below what you were really willing to pay.

But the OP wants to be certain he is ordering a vehicle he can switch to the new Blue when it is released . . . . so do you know what models those colours will be offered in? Not all models get every colour and features can be market-specific (like 5 passenger Crossroads, the 4 cylinder engine in the Crossroad or AWD SXTs, none of which are now available in Canada).

If it doesn't have additional compressor capacity or a larger radiator, the total number of BTUs available will be the same, albeit distributed differently about the cabin.

No. I'm not a dealer, but I went looking at online ordering systems which allowed for data entry for the 2016 model year and they did not let me specify the new colours when I tried for an R/T - I know from experience that certain models are only available in some colours, so it is possible that in Canada the R/T will not be available in Blue . . . . it could just as easily be that they are simply not ready to accept orders for that colour yet. Can you place your order and then amend it IF the colour subsequently comes online before the production date?

It is quite possible that the colour will not be available on that model in this market. . . . . Edit: I went looking and from what I can find for the '16 it seems that the R/T is presently only available to order in White (PW3), Billet (Silver - PSC), Granite (PAU), Redline Pearl (PRM), Pearl White (PWH) or Black (PX8). If that is accurate, you know why you can't order it in the colour you specified.

If you continue to have problems and if you sill want it I can make it available to you via dropbox, just let me know

Well, the fact that you have a personal connection with the garage GREATLY improves the odds that you'll be treated properly. I hope the repair goes well. Good luck

There is no diminished value coverage up here . . . . They can fix it fine, but VERIFY that you got OEM parts - insurance companies (even government owned ones) like to play games and unscrupulous dealers do too. If you can be there when they bring in the parts you can verify that they are from Dodge and bear Dodge parts labels. As me how I know.

I could be as simple as an improperly seated connector. I'd roll by the dealer if it was my vehicle.

So, are you still looking at a '13? They have new ones on the lot? My first one was black, and my '14 Crossroad is silver but I'd swap it for the Pearl White in an instant - it is very good looking, especially with the blacked out wheels and lights..

Note. There isn't more cooling capacity in the 3 zone system. Just an extra air box, blower and vents. I have no issues with my 2 row - ultimately it comes down to personal choice/need, cost and availability.