bramfrank

I believe that it would only be taped to the harness if it wasn't being used (as in my no-auto-lights/no-auto-air SE Plus). Like I wrote - this is a CANBUS vehicle. hey customise the sender and the data is all sent to the BCM. So, simply delete the one step of relocating the connector and you would seem to have the procedure defined.

Nope - you use the harness that is plugged into the sensor you already have. You unplug the present one and replace it with the one the list specifies in addition to changing the light switch AND having the sales code flashed. The vehicle is CANBUS - so the sensor likely sends extra messages that refer to ambient light in addition to whatever messages that the vehicle needs for the auto air.

I noticed two 'folds' in the leather seats of mine when I picked it up in December and the service manager and I looked at his (he drives a demo) which had the same pleats and the ones in the showroom. If they are replacing the seat covers (they will not be replacing the entire seats, unless I am mistaken), then likely your cosmetic problem will recur. Can you post photos, of both your vehicles? I'd like to take another run at my dealer, if indeed I can get the seats to be perfect. At least when it recurs I can be the one to have caused the problem.

The manual for my Pentastar-equipped DJ says that we should not mix regular (E10) and E85; That the system wants either one OR the other and that we should not fill the tank with the other until it is almost empty.. If adding 27% ethanol to whatever the Brazilian fuel spec is takes it above E10, but below E85 you may have a problem. Besides, Ethanol does nothing for pure gasoline consumption (because fuel economy suffers by more than the ethanol percentage in gasohol), so we still pour the same (actually MORE) unburned hydrocarbons into the atmosphere using this additive.

The control you are referring to was only on the 2011 - it was right next to the dash dimmer. As of 2012 they got rid of it.

My (now ex) wife would complain about mileage and blew off my observations about how it is about the driver, more than the vehicle. She also ran through brakes like they were made of balsa wood. 5,000 miles a set . . . She kept saying it was the vehicle, yet when we traded, she killed my mileage and my brakes and I got great mileage and 30,000 miles (before I traded) from the pads she had already half burned through. After that vehicle pairing (we always had 2 of the same in the driveway) I made it a point to switch with her halfway through the ownership, fuel economy was a lot worse and brake life a lot shorter during her term with whatever vehicles we had. Think about it.

Brakes were upgraded in late 2012 . . . LED tail lights are STILL not on the CVP/AVP. If you aren't towing (and even then it depends on what you are towing) there is nothing wrong with the 4 banger unless you are a leadfoot.

Aha - so my SE Plus had no hole in the dash because it came without auto-temp and without auto-headlights. That would be the 4th case and would require cutting or replacing the defrost cover.

Could the 'headlight stuck on' perhaps simply be DRLs? And, just for the edification of owners of vehicles without automatic headlights, this is what that dome in the top/center of the dash (where the the ambient light sensor is located) looks like on a vehicle that is equipped with them:

All this is because there are TWO components involved in the automatic headlight, coupled with the need for the dealer to add the LMG sales code as a 'dealer installed option'. The code should cost between $25 and $50 to add. The two components are the automatic headlight switch which replaces the 'regular' switch that manual-only headlight-equipped vehicles have AND the twilight sensor. The sensor goes under the dash below that 'bump' neat the windshield . . . but the bump needs to be removed/cut, or the sensor won't be seeing daylight. It should require a couple of hours for the entire job. As to why SXTs and below don't have the feature as standard? It is to keep costs on the budget vehicles down and to entice the buyer to purchase a more fully equipped vehicle.\ Interesting enough, the Canadian edition of the Crossroad has the automatic headlights as standard equipment.

The underlying concept is that if both wheels are slipping there's no point to applying lots of power . . . so it throttles back, which can be counter-productive if you know how to handle a vehicle in those conditions - you DO need to disengage the traction control if you want wheelspin. Since I don't have an AWD version of the vehicle I can't comment in the impact when switching off TC when one wheel or more is free-spinning in a vehicle with that feature.

Dee, I ran the same search and in the first six pages of results only ONE owner had an unresolved complaint about phantom starts claiming to be without a remote starter and that thread was closed before that person came back to definitively explain the cause . . . . the only other one I found was a mechanic who didn't realise he had a remote starter in his vehicle, even though he was using the remote from the starter with the vehicle to lock and unlock the doors. I suppose the BCM could have some sort of fault, since there are just too many external parameters necessary for the vehicle to initiate a start sequence (Fob detected; Vehicle in neutral; Brake pressed and; Start button pressed, all at the same time) and this is where I'd likely start my search if I was the dealer. That this is under warranty is a good thing, since the BCM is a pricey part and dealers are expensive and don't all have the best diagnosticians, especially when it comes to phantom and intermittent faults. There is a case to be made for extended bumper-to-bumper warranties if you plan to keep the vehicle for more than 3 years (BCMs and electronics are not considered part of the power train).

That black one with 13 miles may be on the dealer's books as a loaner, which gets them a credit of several thousand dollars thet gets passed on to you, as the buyer. But if it IS a loaner the warranty will have started with the 'service date' - so if that is the case be aware that you are buying what is legally a 'used' vehicle and it may not have as much warranty on the clock as you expect - now you know to ask. The savings are great and you can perhaps use some of them to buy an extended OEM warranty.

dhh3: Exactly . . . . IF the vehicle had a remote starter receiver, which it doesn't, the chance of a wireless device issuing the correct code to initiate the start is almost zero; Then there's the fact that the vehicle would shut down after a period of time if a remote start command had been issued. I suppose that it is possible for the vehicle controller to be defective. But here's a question for the OP: Did you buy the vehicle new? If not, then perhaps the original owner had an aftermarket starter installed and it is acting up?

You said that the one you heard trying to start sounded like a '4'? How could you tell? I will assume that you have the 6 in yours? There is no 'normal' way for the vehicle to start on it's own (if you don't order remote start they don't install the receiver for it at the factory) and the likelihood of a garage door opener sending the same code sequence (the Journey uses a rolling code) that would start your vehicle if it HAD the remote start is almost zero.

I had the original 17" tires that came on the '11 when it was traded - but I have no real idea of the mileage that was on them since they were swapped out for winter tires for 3 months of each year I had it (because I never bothered to check my spread sheet). But they were good tires. I can't speak to the 19" ones on the Crossroad - I took delivery with a fresh set of 17" snows on steel rims and the 19" OEM wheels and tires were in the back.

My new (now 6 weeks old) Crossroad's rear doors seem to be a slightly different tint than the rest of the vehicle - under fluorescent lights they see to be darker than the rest of the vehicle - this is the tri-coat silver. I had a close look at a tri-coat pearl vehicle and it seems to have the same difference. Of course the service manager says that he can't see anything in the service bay - but even in my driveway they are different - enough to almost look as though they have been repainted - but using a thickness gauge it is obvious that this is 'from the factory'. The dealer has said that if it shows up under the body shop lighting, the remedy is a repaint - and I KNOW that this will just make it worse - been there, done that with a vehicle many years ago. So I'm wondering if anyone else seeing similar things with their Journeys? edit: I wish we could edit the titles of these topics - and, for that matter to be able to delete posts we've made.

Remember that the fob must be new and as-yet unpaired with a vehicle and that the fob will need to be programmed by the dealer, who will charge for the privilege.

Why would you expect updates? Does it have any bugs that require updating? Actually there was one back in 2011 to eliminate little MP3 dropouts, but it was my dealer that applied it.

I don't agree. My '11 had the 'small' brakes and they were still fine when I traded the vehicle at 60,000 km - probably had about 15,000 km left on them. They were starting to pulse a bit, mind you, but nothing dramatic. My ex used to go through pads and disks on her van (when we drove identical vans) in about 8,000 km while mine simply never wore out - after 2 years we swapped vehicles and the van she was now riving started going through brakes like crazy while her old one (which I was now driving) had brakes that lasted.. I suspect it is more about one's driving habits than it is about the vehicle being the cause. In my experience OEM pads are grabbier, and so do wear more quickly than harder pads which may have 'lifetime' warranties - but then they require more effort to stop the vehicle.

My last Journey was black and now I have a silver Crossroad - if I'd been able to I'd have gone with the pearl white, which looks amazing with the platinum accents and wheels that the Crossroad provides. IMO pearl white is much nicer than the black and hides the dirt really well. The advantage you have is that you can order EXACTLY what you want if you decide to go with a new vehicle - no compromises. In the US you get somewhat more choices than up here in Canada - you can get the 4 if you want (not in Canada), though in Canada they offer it in an AWD version (not in the US as far as I can tell). You can get it as a 5 passenger or 7 (for 2015 it seems that you can only get the 7 passenger in Canada), but lots of things that are options in the US are standard in the Canada version (in Canada you get most of the $1000 popular equipment group standard - exceptions are remote start and the universal garage door opener). Go figure.

The guides are added by the radio, so no. My backup camera kit is enroute - paid US$258 and will do the install myself, but given a comment in topic about the pins in the connector being occupied (those pins are the composite video input to the radio), I wonder if perhaps Dodge has started including the camera connections in the basic harness . . . . If so I would not need the wiring harness that comes with the full kit . . . . I could have gotten the OEM camera assembly as a stand alone part for less than $100 . . . . . . It will be a few weeks before I attempt the installation - I will report back when I know more.

Welcome. Have you checked eBay for parts? If not there are a lot of American dealers who will sell you product at a discount and hopefully will ship to you in France . . . if they won't ship overseas, then perhaps you can make an arrangement to have your parts shipped to someone in the USA and have them reship the parts to you in France . . . .

I had no real complaints about my '11 with the 4 cylinder - on the highway it won't fly by traffic you want to pass, but it is more than adequate for any sane speeds and for proper passing - and there is the marginally better gas mileage to consider (gas prices will be going back up at some point). The 6 can be faster if you press the pedal to the floor, but for regular daily driving, both in town and on the highway the 4 is fine. As to the AWD - I have written my posts on the topic - never needed it - and I used to drive into the mountains twice each weekend in the winter with all season tires and front wheel drive - I never got stuck and even used to get other people out of trouble - it is more about the driver than the number of powered wheels.

Bumper to bumper warranty is 3 years/60,000 km - so yes, longer than 2 years. And given the cost of the electronic stuff in these vehicles you might want to consider buying an extended warranty FROM CHRYSLER if you plan to keep the vehicle for longer than this. Pricing for these warranties IS negotiable, but quite expensive for us Canuks, even after negotiating.