bramfrank

Actually, the Canadian model won't bother you at all (no light, nothing) after it first discovers that you have no TPS sensors and you acknowledge it . . . you get the one message and once you clear that it is completely quiet. Come spring, when you re-install your summer wheels you get one chime and the car figures out which sensor is where and that's the end of it.

Or the vehicle was grossly overloaded . . . .

My reply to 'we're out of loaners' would have been to 'call me back when you have some and we'll do this at that time'.

I'll give you $10K sight unseen.

The units value in the DJ switches between litre/km and US Gallons/miles - there is no English measure readout. As to the EVIC being accurate . . . mine is darned close - however one needs to keep in mind that fuel consumption figures displayed are not based on total distance and volume since the last reset, but rather of a lesser distance; something like 1000 km (I never bothered to determine what the window actually is). My navigator allows me to track consumption by inputting price per litre (or gallon), volume of fuel and distance travelled - it builds a file that can be exported to a PC to import into a spreadsheet, which is actually rather neat - I use the car's odometer for the distance reading because of the way navigators track such things. The EVIC is almost spot on if I synchronise the stats by resetting the EVIC when I do the navigator, which is just a simple calculator.

37 psi is only one pound over the manufacturer spec, which tends to run a it on the soft side, It is also within the margin of error for the vast majority of mechanical pressure gauges, so no issues with safety doing that.

There is a serious trade off between tire grip and gas mileage. The sidewall rating is the MNIIMUM the tire is guaranteed to hold without BURSTING - it is NOT intended as an inflation value. Besides, over-inflating the tires will lead to the tire bulging and the center of the tread will wear out VERY quickly. You will find the proper inflation value for the vehicle on the sticker inside the front door well - by the way, for the DJ the factory rating is 36 psi all around (the spare is another story) regardless of tire size - tires are inflated when COLD (at local ambient temperature, noting that tires heated by the sun are not considered to be cold) - do not drive to a fill station unless you have measured the pressure when cold, and then take into account the pressure rise from that drive for each tire and factor that into the amount of air you fill - if it has gone up 2 psi, then fill 2 psi higher than what you desire - but only if the tires remain warm. Do not go too far above the specified pressure because pressure rises with tire temperature - and on hot days, running on a highway it goes up a LOT. Invest in a GOOD pressure gauge - decent electronic gauges offer the best accuracy and repeatability, since friction plays no part in their operation. I inflate to 37 psi.

So you know for the future, the sidewall marking is for the ABSOLUTE MAXIMUM inflation pressure - more than that and you risk a blowout. That's why they provide owner's manuals.

Was the ignition switch recall done? If you have a wack of keys hanging from the fob it can cause the key to turn just enough to kill the ignition . . . . the solution is to put in a stronger spring, but it is even easier just to remove all that mass that causes the problem in the first place. As to the leak? If you aren't handy take it to a responsible mechanic for a diagnosis.

you just remove the glove box (there are tabs on the sides to press which allow it to tilt all the way back) and there is another fuse block in the engine compartment.

That last comment can be taken a couple of different ways . . . .

The light is probably on because a wheel sensor's battery is low - and the sensors are MORE accurate than any mechanical and most electronic gauges you can buy. The real problem (at least on the lower line vehicles) is that the system reports in 1 psi increments - the ones on my old LHS did 1 kpa increments, about 7.5 times more sensitive, not that it makes a huge difference. And once more . . . you can cancel your 'gold plan' warranty as long as you do it within 60 days of purchase. Then you can buy a 'proper' plan and get bumper to bumper coverage to 7/160 with or without deductible from Chrysler (I have the 7/115, zero deductible on mine). A word of caution: if purchasing extended warranties, ONLY buy the Chrysler OEM ones - should you have any significant issues you will regret not having done so. As to your rotors? They are considered a wear item and carry a 20K defect only guarantee.

Buying it used doesn't mean you don't have a warranty - the base (bumper to bumper) warranty is 3 years/36K miles in the US and unless your vehicle was raced or has a salvage title the warranty will be in effect if the vehicle was initially titled after April 2011 and has fewer than 36K miles on the odometer - 5 years/100K miles (I believe) for the power train (I am in Canada and we use different units of measure and get screwed on our powertrain warranty term up here). If you have remaining warranty you can purchase an extension - if you decide to do this, get ONLY the Chrysler OEM warranty.

Of course you read the user manual cover to cover before using the vehicle so you'd be familiar with it's features? And, when you discovered something unexpected went back to the manual to figure out what it was all about? RTFM

I will wager that your gauge is wrong and the TPS is right. With reference to your warranty note that you really extended the electronics and aircon warranty with the package you bought and that you may (or may not) have a deductible - it depends on what plan number you got. If it is an official Chrysler package you have 60 days to change your mind and get a full refund.

Of course you could have simply hit the conversion button - switched the vehicle to US measure altogether - a few button presses is all it takes.

Mine ticked over 45000 km yesterday - I have the original pads and disks and no pulsation - about 30% wear left on the pads all around. I do about 50/50 city/highway driving and while I'm not a leadfoot, I don't drive like a grandmother either. My kids certainly don't take it easy on the vehicle. It sounds to me like wear is directly tied to how hard you work the vehicle and the conditions you use them in - Gritty, dirty environments likely contribute to increased break wear (clean those calipers and sliders); Frequent, hard stops likewise. If you carry heavy loads . . and so on. Edit: It occurs to me to mention that back when the kids were young and before I got divorced my ex would get between 4K and 8K out of a set of brakes on the various vans she had (We used to buy GM vehicles) - she complained bitterly to the dealer (and to me) about how crappy the brakes were in the sense that she was always having to change them. Well, our process was that she would always get the new vehicle and I would get her old one (since all I ever did with a car on weekdays was to drive from a garage at home to a garage at my office) noting that rush hour driving is especially hard on vehicles. Something very interesting would always happen when I took over the vehicle; 1. Brakes started lasting 2. Fuel economy was vastly improved Now, when I was with her she wouldn't drive like a cowboy, but clearly she wasn't driving the same way with me than she did when she wasn't.

While I haven't actually looked at the clips in question and I am too lazy to actually go into the garage and check before writing this, they sound like the same ones Yamaha uses on my Motorcycle. If they are, you press the center pin IN to the clip past the head and it will 'click' into place, releasing tension on the ears that hold the clip in place - you can then simply remove the clip by carefully twisting the head while pulling it back. You reset the clip by pressing the pin back into the clip so it extends past the head, again releasing the tension. Insert the clip by carefully inserting the ears so that they go past the two surfaces being mated and then press the pin so that it is again flush with the head. Very simple; Quite elegant.

Not without you paying a lot more than it is worth.

No.

No dealer puts bars on inventory vehicles unless they ship with the vehicle. If they add them it will show up on the invoice. Only certain trim levels come with the crossbars - and which trim levels they come with vary from year to year and from country to country. For 2014 I don't believe that any US models ship with them. In Canada the SXT and above do, but NOT the Crossroad - it only comes with champagne side rails for some reason. The CVP and AVP don't even come with the side rails.

If your GPS is also your handsfree, then sticking it on the left side simply means that the microphone is aimed out the window. I ran a wire from the fuseblock to the headliner to power mine and it is suctioned to the windshield so that it is centered above the rear view mirror. As it happens, I also have a dash cam which is fastened to the junction of the headliner and windshield just ahead of me seating position. Neither device is directly in my line of sight and both work very well where they are located.

This is the whole OEM setup. Both main rack and cross rails: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2009-2014-Dodge-Journey-Roof-Rack-82211460-/390744042178?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ADodge%7CModel%3AJourney&hash=item5afa28eac2&vxp=mtr

The cross rails are available as an OEM accessory (and as aftermarket items) for those with the roof rails - you'd need to fit both roof rails and cross rails if the vehicle has nothing up top. This is probably the best priced OEM cross rail set available on eBay at this time: http://www.ebay.com/itm/09-13-Dodge-Journey-Roof-Rack-Cross-Rail-Mopar-OEM-82212509-/171268250678?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ADodge%7CModel%3AJourney&hash=item27e0621c36&vxp=mtr

Sounds more like a possibly corroded electrical connection to a sensor - do not drive it around or the code could roll off the computer. Take it to the dealer and get the OBD read out.