bramfrank

I didn't bother with TPMS sensors on the winter wheels. The warning light came on the first time I drove with the winters installed and after that the dash was clear. It all quietly goes back to normal when the summer tires are re-installed.

As jojogg said, most (but not all) 2013 models cannot use 16" rims because they upgraded the calipers and disks - also, somewhere along the way they were changed on the in 2012 R/T - not that this is an issue on your CVP. You should check the disk diameter on your specific unit to see if it has the larger disks. You may 'get lucky'. But you can use them for all previous models - I have 16" steel rims and winter tires for my 2011 SE+. So, as you know, the 2 sizes you quoted are for different wheels. Assuming they fit your vehicle, there is a roughly 1% difference in rotational speed (the 16" will go farther per rotation and the speedo and odometer will read lower than with the 17" wheel combination), all things being equal. But not all things are equal - there can be a fairly significant difference between the overall tire height depending on the specifics of the tire manufacturer's design. Tire wear is a factor as well. I have a vehicle where the winter tires sit quite a bit lower than the summers - and they both have the same size specification. It can be quite disconcerting when we do the wheel swap (both sets are on OEM wheels). If you put on tires with different circumferences there is a parameter than can be adjusted to make the speedo accurate (or you can just ignore the error). Search the board and you'll find a post I wrote a while ago on the entire concept of calculating tire sizes

It was $1960 (Canadian). If they'd offered the lifetime in Canada I'd have bought it - I have a 2000 LHS in the driveway with a blown head gasket that at least leaks the right way (exhaust into coolant), but overheats if driven too far - the cost to fix it isn't justified so lately it has been used by the kids only to go to the mall and such. A shame, since the vehicle is otherwise clean and has less than 100K miles on the clock.

Having been through the mill with aftermarket policy writers (including having had to take one to court to get them to pay) I would NEVER buy an extended warranty from anyone except the manufacturer. The OEM policies are easier to deal with, don't force you to pay for diagnostics and replacement fluids, they provide for rental cars if there's an overnight repair and best of all, no haggling - and you get your vehicle fixed at a dealer who uses factory original parts. I ran a buyer's group for factory warranties for Canadian owners last year - it went well enough and we had about 15 buyers (though the selling dealer has since closed their doors, not that it affects the policy). So I have the 7/115 with zero deductible on my '11 - that, or the 7/160 make the most sense IMO, since a 5 year policy really only covers things like the radio, power windows and air conditioning, given that the power train is covered for 5 years anyway. My DJ turned 2 in September and runs just fine. I've been to the dealer only once to have a few issues resolved (mostly minor, the big one being a leaking valve cover gasket) and they gave me a loaner, did the work and gave me the vehicle back washed. All dealers should be so accommodating.

You don't need to reset the mpg indicator on the DJ. The displayed fuel efficiency covers only up to the last ??? miles (can't quite pin it down) - if it was open ended, after a while it would never change at all.

He already has the big screen, so the uptick is a lot less than if he was upgrading from a 4.3, but it costs the same.

Not cost-effective to do. In my case the vehicle came without the Bluetooth, which was a real bummer. So in the end I put up a Garmin 3790 (the 3490 is the current version) - it sits above the mirror and the wiring is completely hidden. Map updates are free, to boot. If you do decide the do the upgrade keep in mind that you might also need to add in the auxiliary GPS receiver that sits in the headliner in the rear of the vehicle.

You can expect your dealer to fix the problem under warranty.

I never fund Paypal transfers with cash - always with a premium credit card. If Paypal doesn't quickly credit me I do a chargeback with the credit card. End of problem.

In this era of corn added to gasoline you NNEVER need this type of service - Ethanol does an AMAZING job of keeping the internals of your engine and fuel system clean. Decline, decline, decline all those things not specifically requires by the book.

My '11 is fine. 1 warranty visit to reflash the stereo and fix a leaking valve cover gasket. But to be safe I have the factory extended warranty - I usually manage to make them pay for themselves. We'll see.

Why would you give your insurance information to the person who crashed? And it doesn't matter whether you cut her off or not - she has to drive in a safe manner and be able to avoid accidents, pretty much no matter what you do. No contact. No responsibility.

If the rating is 100 lbs I suggest that it is very conservative. Spec in Europe for the OEM rack is 150 pounds.

4 is adequate and less expensive initially. The 4 will pull the vehicle around at any speed, even well above legal maximums without any problem. If you never drive a 6 you won't miss the extra power.

You'd be nuts to spend $7K more to get grab handles and a mini console - unless, of course the SXT also has the 3.6 Pentastar - and even then it is a 50% surcharge. But make sure that whet they deliver is indeed an SE Plus - there is no badging to indicate that it is. Again, the things to look for: - Deep tinted windows - LED tail lights, - Roof rails and rack, - Floor mats, - Cargo cover, - Leather steering wheel and shifter knob, - Body colored heated, power rear view mirrors SXT does NOT include the sat radio standard in Canada - and in '11 you also got alloy wheels with the SE+ where the base model had steel wheels with hub caps. In '11, the Canadian SXT added the following over the SE+: - Fog lights - Cargo net - Overhead console - Compass - Alarm system - Automatic headlights - One touch down AND up windows - Upgraded bumpers

Claim the repair - your premiums may go up, but even if they do, it will be less than the more than $2K in repair costs AND the increase will be spread over a couple of years. If you are judged to be responsible (it can go either way, since the rules of the road state you are supposed to leave enough space to be able to avoid any obstacle) then your immediate cost will be your deductible. Did you manage to identify the driver of the truck?

I have seen lots of ads for what they call the SE PLUS but are really offering the CVP. I've also seen zero mileage, but technically used vehicles being offered for sale. So, where is this deal on the SE?

There should not be rust in the cylinders of ANY running engine, not just 'new' ones since the top end oil and rings will keep the cylinder walls clean and rust allows lots of blow-by. I have a Y2K LHS that is in almost showroom condition (less than 100K miles and everything works, too) with the 3.5 that has been repaired for head gasket issues twice and now has a cracked head. At least it only leaks exhaust into the coolant, so it is runnable, but overheats, so it is useful only for local use - and that's what my daughter uses it for - I will be getting rid of it at the end of the summer when she leaves for university. You might want to initiate a complaint and claim with the manufacturer and the dealer and ask them to compensate you for the loss you incurred as the result of their misdiagnosis and for insisting that this fault was considered normal performance. You made the decision to trade the vehicle on the basis of that faulty diagnosis that they stuck with in spite of your position to the contrary - that cost YOU money where the repair would have been free. I've BTDT with Chrysler and some it's dealers - they always claim that problems are either your fault, or if it is under warranty, that whatever it is, is normal - I've had to sue more than once to get them to pay for their errors - now I have a good dealer who has mechanics with brains.

There WAS an extended warranty for brakes for the 2010 and prior model years. However if your pads are 70% worn and rotors horribly warped, you might want to ask Finch how that had to have developed in the last 3000 km - what was it that they would have charged you the $200 for and why did they neither detect, nor fix a problem then? Since you have 36K and the service was 3K prior, you have done less than 8% of the mileage on the vehicle since the work they did - so the pads had to have been 65% worn . . . what did they report? And, assuming that it isn't your driving style, a 'horribly warped' rotor likely results from a stuck caliper - and if they cleaned and lubed the slides, like they should have, and if the rotor wasn't warped 3K ago, then they must have done something to cause the caliper to hang up.

Depending on whether the AC is on, how much stop and go driving you do, how hard you are on the gas pedal and such, that mileage may well be perfectly reasonable. My 2.4 gets 12.2 l/100 km combined, and does as well as 8.8l/100km on highway runs - the other 2 I own don't do as well because they have a higher city driven component, they are driven by employees and carry tools and stuff - but there is still a fair highway component, so even then it isn't comparable. Fill the beast up and take it on a level highway run with the cruise engaged. If you get better than 10l/100km your vehicle is fine.

Reading through what you posted in the followup, the dealer is right - spend the $50 and plug an aftermarket Sirius radio into the aux jack if you want to listen to Howard Stern. The RHA (which is what you apparently ordered) is NOT Sirius capable. You'd need the REB radio. A check of the Canadian web site shows the RHA radio as what's standard on the SXT and below and the description says that the vehicle is 'satellite capable' - the details specify that you can order the REB as a time-of-order option for the SE and SXT models, but not the CVP - so whoever gave you the description with the 's' in the radio designator is wrong - you're getting a basic radio. If the sales contract specifies the 's' model, you may be able to force them to install the upgraded radio and the associated antenna at their expense. There is an inconsistency in the wording - if it is the dealer's fault he may be held accountable since he is the one supposedly aware of just what things mean . . . . . Beyond the errant 'S' in the model description you posted, I see no evidence that the vehicle is going to arrive with a satellite radio.

The 4.3S includes the receiver. For retail customers it includes the first year of service - perhaps for fleet users the free year is not included . . . .

Besides, without an appointment the dealer may not be able to do anything for you while you wait.

Here's what the paperwork says. For the vent issue: Starcase 1224000023 For the sound issue: RRT 11-108 For intermittent cruise control enabling: they replaced the switches . . . . . that ain't gonna fix it, since it is a software issue. For the oil leak they replaced the timing chain cover gasket - they had to pull the belt, tensioner, water pump pulley, AC bracket, power steering pump, head cover, engine mount & support and something he called the 'front cover' - no wonder it was booked as 4 hours of labour!!! While they had it they applied RRT 12-025 - something to do with the engine temperature sensor. Number 2 is going in on Tuesday for the vent and radio fixes.

Yesterday I dropped my personal DJ off at the dealer - it is the first time since I got it in August 2011 that it's been back. Since I own 3 of these (mine is the oldest) and all three behaved the same way (and others out there do as well) I felt that it HAD to be a design 'feature'. Well, it seems that some part behind the fascia is bent or something - they adjusted it and apparently it works as expected now, so if yours does NOT blow from both the top and bottom vents in bi-level bring it in. However, they had to change the rocker cover gasket (I had a small oil leak), do a software update to get rid of the annoying dropouts from the MP3 player and fix my cruise control, so what started out as a 4 hour visit turned into a 3 day car rental. First they tried to tell me that with my extended warranty I was only entitled to a rental AFTER the first day, to which I responded that the concept made no sense, because they planned to have the vehicle back to me by 11 the next day - but they'd rent a car for me as of 7:30 . . . . what it ACTUALLY says is that if they need to keep the car overnight I get a rental - so I'm driving a Chevy Impala from Enterprise t their expense and now they're promising I'll get mine back no later than noon tomorrow (Day 3). The vent issue apparently requires an hour in the shop, so I'll take the others in for their vent work in the next few weeks. The dealer is right across the street from my bank, so I'll tie it in with visits and such.