bramfrank

To remain street legal, why not install HIR bulbs instead of an HID conversion? Cheaper too. If you insist on HIDs keep them at 4300K and below.

The parts aren't defective, they're undersized. And your dealer is a thief. Buy aftermarket parts - 4 rotors will set you back all of $120 and pads about $100. They're not hard to change yourself, but your local handy mechanic likely can do it for $100 in cash or so. As to affording the cost? Take it out of the money you saved by buying a Journey in the first place.

I'm reasonably certain you will have more to do to make the Nav work - plus (and I'm only suggesting) it may not come with the mapping, so add in another couple of hundred just for that. You won't have Bluetooth - and, as mentioned, not changing the lower stack will cost you the memory card slot... I'd personally have done what I did, which is to simply put up a high end Garmin navigator, which gave me Bluetooth, Voice dialing and navigation and such and set me back about $250 - and it came with lifetime map updates and provides me with traffic.

The SE is a lousy deal inthe US. Much better equipped in Canada for the same money. And now up here you can buy a '13 SXT (4 cylinder) for about the same money as the SE. After a few years, the year-to-year differential almost disappears - and since there isn't supposed to be a 2014, these things are not likely to retain much resale value in any case.

Accuracy of the wrench, surface condition of the fasteners, including corrosion, oils and moisture makes the number an approximation, at best. 90, 95, 100 or even 110 means nothing. It just gets you 'in the range'.

The 2.4 is enough to keep the Journey moving at highway speeds, but it is no police interceptor. The 3.6 does have more power than the 3.5 and I know that the AWD does have negative impact on mileage, not to mention that being in Canada it means the R/T with it's 19" wheels. But one item of nte is that AWD on most vehicles, including the Journey requires you to swap out a full set of tires if you have an issue with one tire beyond the initial treadwear period. Unless you drive through huge snow drifts or try to do offroading I don;t personally think one requires AWD (and driving theough a national park isn't offroading, if you get my drift and the Journey isn;t a CJ either). It shouldn't be hard to get a read back of the MPG specs for your '10 and compare them to the claimed MPG spec for the '12s in both FWD and AWD formats.

The formal MPG ratings, if sone to the same standards oughtotto give you a ratio of what you have now with what you WILL have if you upgrade. Want to save on MPG? Buy the 2.4 - it isn't 'tons' different from the 6, but it is less. I question the concept of using hundreds of dollars in fuel savings as justification for spending 10s of thousands of dollars to replace the vehicle. It's going to take a ton of savings in fuel consumption to cover the cost of upgrading your vehicle. The same argument applies to spending many thousands extra to buy a Hybrid.

Well he said HE changed the oil. Again, he has the manual. The information is out there. He only needed to look it up or type key words into the forum search or into Google. You wouldn't have been alienating him by not responding, by the way.

Chris; I take issue with the concept of spoon feeding people information that they can find by lifting their heads a bit and looking around. Referring to my post from last week, you have to ask what else the poster doesn't know about his vehicle? What oil did he use? How did he figure out what grade he needed? What tire pressure does he run? How much did he torque the drain bolt? Was a crush washer required? What oil filter did he use? What other parts of the basic maintenance and what other features of the vehicle is he clueless about? It is my studied opinion as someone who was a professional provider of help that the best way to help people is to direct them so that they learn to help themselves. The reset procedure has been posted several times on this site. It is almost certainly available with a simple Google search (just a sec, I'll check: Yup - there's even a couple of videos on Youtube for the uber-lazy) and, of course there's the manual that you quoted from. As far as I'm concerned you did not do the owner of the vehicle any favours by posting the procedure yet another time - no offense to you intended.

It brings something only to the original poster, who was too lazy to read his manual and too lazy to use a search engine, since the data was already posted oin this site and (without checking) certainly available elsewhere on the net. Like I wrote in the other thread he posted the same question in - give a man a fish and he has a meal. TEACH a man to fish and he can feed himself forever.

And all you've done by posting this information again is to create a situation where the owner may be missing out on (sometimes) interesting and important information.

My DJ sometimes gets into a mode where it won't recognise the 'enable' (upper left) button and so can't be engaged. This usually clears within a few minutes and from then on it can be set just fine. Since it is intermittant, I haven't bothered to mention it to my dealer. Go figure.

You can give a man a fish and he'll have food for a day. Teach a man to fish and he'll feed himself for life. I ran a tech support group for a communications equipment company for 10 years and discovered that a relatively small group of people would call and bother my staff repeatedly for trivial matters that could be found in the owner's manual. We adopted a policy where we would ask that they take out their manuals and follow along, showing them where the answers were and advising them to read the document fully so they could appreciate the nuances of the product and to please do this before calling back with another issue. If they didn't have a manual we would mail one to them for free - once. After they called back 3 times, if the problem was one that was dealt with in the manual we'd refer them back to the manual without providing the walk-trough and they'd often get back to us, thanking us for making them read it through because they would discover things the product could do that they'd never realised. The term for this was to tell them to RTFM (Read The F*cking Manual). Try it. Your very complex new vehicle will thank you.

I guess you haven't bothered to read the manual?

I won't pick apart your repsponse to my post, but will say that you asked and answered the questions - and the answers are obvious. If you aren't getting serviced properly by your dealer, find another and stop banging your head against the wall at the one you've been using. So, yes. If your dealer isn't fixing your vehicle to your satisfaction and you want the issues resolved, you DO need to get pro-active. If your vibration started with CT and then persisted through the next tire swap, then perhaps CT damaged the vehicle while installing the tires? Bearings, stering and suspension components are relatively fragile when confronted by ham-fisted mechanics. As to your wife's honesty? Not in question. However many women do tend not to appreciate the mechanical consequences of some of their actions.

A camera, a recorder and a large sign in both languages and with graphics that says 'smile for the camera'. The sign is the disincentive. Otherwise all you get are pics of people thhat no one recognises.

Well, I'm not a dealer, but some of your issues were quite simple and others perhaps the same issue over and over. For example - that 'first 15 minutes of vibration issue' you're complaining about is simply the flat spot that tires get from sitting in one position being rolled out - check your tire pressure, you may need to inflate them a bit more to reduce the effect. Vibrations in general ought to be traceable - you put on wheels and tires at Canadian Tire and started having vibrations . . . . the likelihood is that CT did something, possibly killing a bearing - again, we're listening only to your simplified version of the story. There may have been other factors at work. Brakes? They go. Especially on the DJ - braking vibrations means warped rotors. They did the rears? The fronts take more force and may have had pad left, but possibly were not true. Your radio issue? One big problem that needs someone to get you the right parts and install it properly. The strut may have 'popped' if your wife turned into the driveway and jumped a curb - my ex would do stuff like that and say 'nothing was ever stressed' - my sister told me how aggressively she drove when I wasn't around. I'm not saying that this was the issue you had, but it is a possibility. At least they replaced it under warranty. In the end, for the vibration issues, if your dealer couldn't solve the problem, you ought to have taken the vehicle to a specialist (hint: Canadian Tire is not a specialist). I once owned a car that would start vibrating 1-5K after a tire swap - they'd balance it and it would be good for another 1-5K, then start vibrating again. Tires were from Goodyear. The dealer sent me to them - they replaced tires . . . 5 times!!! I finally got Goodyear to buy me a set of MIchelins and never had the proble gain. It turned out to be that the bead on that size of Goodyear tire was just large enough that it let the tire slip on the chromed rim under power (remember my wife, the race car driver?). The Michelin's were just a tad tighter and didn't slip. Dealers are generalists. Not all dealers are the same. They certainly aren't rocket scientists when it comes to electronics and electronic systems. If you can't get things fixed then you need to get pro-active (or learn to live with the problem). Go to another dealer as a first step. I took my DJ in for a radio issue requiring a flash update and in spite of the fact that I told them what to do the dealer told me they'd be charging me for time if THEY couldn't see the problem. I cancelled the work order then and there and went to another dealer who not only wouldn't have charged but gave me a loaner for the 3 hours they needed to get to the vehicle and do the work when they didn't have to, since they had a couple on the lot sitting around. Your list unfortunately is littered with dealer issues: You had 8 declared problems, but 'summarise' it as 18 items. The reality is that you are hyper sensitive to issues and I don't blame you. but in general it sounds like you had about 3 things go wrong (plus what is likely a Canadian-Tire induced issue) and a dealer that isn't interacting well with you, for whatever reason.

Forbes - after reviewing the DJ they had their chauffeurs pull their Maybachs up to the door for the ride home. They're a bunch of snobs, at best.

1 psi is slightly less than 7 kpa - the TPS transmitter clearly is calibrated in individual steps of PSI and the display allows approximating kpa on the display, which is why it moves in 7 kpa steps . . . . my old LHS has a TPMS that reads in individual steps of 1 kpa - damned accurate, too.

The one you saw was likely an AVP - those don't come with LED lighting - but don't expect to be able to retrofit the LED for incandescent - different wiring harnesses . . . .

The base maps in most Garmin devices are a function of firmware - updates can only be made from the same regional maps that the unit shipped with - you need the Brazilian version of the navigator - there must be a country-specific model of the radio and your dealer has to order the one for Brazil. Good luck.

Was your cost adjusted to reflect the lack of the navigation option? If you must have a navigator go out and buy one for a hundred or two dollars - you'll find that stand-alone navs have the advantage of free map updates.

Memristor: The person who replied to you is probably the same one who told me that uConnect does include Bluetooth on the 2011 and that I should claim a radio retrofit - wrong on both suggestions. Well, tires ARE a wear item, but they are what are called 'spec' tires'. They are exactly the same as what you buy retail, but marked as OEM because manufacturers get a discount for the quantities they buy and because the manufacturer provides a very limited warranty. However be aware that tire wear is tied to a number of factors; Obviously there are different formulations for the tire compunds and hardness is the most important factor - the wear factors are incorporated in what is called the "Uniform Tire Quality Grade" (UTQG) rating . UTQG defines tire life, traction and extended run speed ratings - you can always Google it if you want more information. The higher the number, the longer they'll roll. While how you drive is also one of the keys, WHAT YOU DRIVE ON can be even more important. If you drive on what is called 'chip & seal' your tires will not last long at all because the finish is tough on tires and Michigan is one of those states that uses that paving technique, though where and how extensively I cannot say. Rolly: As to swapping tires - your dealer likely would be more than pleased to sell you a set of tires and install them on your brand new vehicle and might even credit you something for having done so, and then he'll sell the removed ones as 'take-offs' at a very nice profit to someone who needs tires.

From the perspective of diameter they'll work - will they fit width-wise? These rims are wider than stock, and I don;t know what the clearances are, so I can't guarantee they'll work - maybe someone else here who has done it can chime in.

It isn't the rims, it is the entire tire/wheel assembly. You need three factors to work out propery; 1. The right bolt pattern 2. The right offset 3. The right overall diameter for the tires 4. Appropriate width for the entire package Here's a bit of verbiage on the various tires that you'd normally put on a DJ: http://www.dodgejour...set/#entry16222 You'll need to choose a wheel that clears the calipers and keep the overall diameter and tire width roughly equal to what you have now to avoid clearance issues. The point is that you aren't going to put fat tires on a DJ, though lower profile tires combined with bigger wheels may give the impression of being fatter. To get the right diameter and width a 20" tire that should do the job would be sized about 235/45/20 - 22" would be about 225/35/22 - you might need to tweak the pinion factor slightly if the speedo ends up being off a bit.