bramfrank

Does it lock/unlock when you use the door switches?

The TPMS on my vehicle reads out in 1 pound increments (7 or 8 unit steps - it varies - in metric). It is accurate, as far as it goes, but I own a pressure gauge that reads out in 0.1 pound increments and is accurate to 0.1 pounds. That, and because my car parks indoors I can do a cold temp pressure adjustment that is more accurate than the TPMS - then it is a question of watching when the sensors report a change that increments the display. The placard on my car says 36 pounds all around - I fill to 37 PSI.

Open a file with the NHTSA - your vehicle is dangerous - explain it the way you have here. The web site is https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/

One of the issues is likelly to be related to Canbus. The front switches probably aren't recognized by the BCM (Body Control Module) because the feature that they service isn't enabled - since the rears work the same they likely may well BE the same, from the perspective of their ID numbers on the bus. I suspect you'll need to take your vehicle to the dealer to have the feature added . . . . the days of upgrading by replacing parts from one trim line to another are gone and the dealers are the only ones who can enable the changes (and often THEY don't know this, not to mention that the ones who do now how to charge). This ain't your father's Chevy. Hopefully soon we'll be able to buy a device that we can use to enable our own features - it can't be all THAT difficult.

Note - it deals with 0.2 second breaks in the audio - the processor was overloaded and they increased the priority of the audio interrupts. I solved the problem in my vehicle and all I use is an iPod Touch.

http://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/index.php?/topic/2353-radio-sound-problem/page__st__100#entry19045

You didn't say what the issue you are having is, but the word 'drop-out' may refer to momentary cuts in the sound? If so, there was a firmware release that may (or may not) help. Check the board, find the TSB that applies to the drop out issue, print it out and head back to the dealer with the information in hand if it applies to your VIN.

They work well for me.

Oh - no one in this thread said it was board-hosted, only embedded. I figured that no one would ever use that feature locally given the stingy storage limits the board imposes and the fact that much better and more flexible hosting is available out on the web for free, not to mention that I am active on several boards and using Webshots gives me a homogeneous interface and centralized storage. I looked at a couple of images before posting my comments and they all worked - So I gather that they were likely hosted externally, like my images because when I went looking through more of the gallery just now I saw the problem. The solution is simple enough - just open a account with Picasa, Flickr, Webshots or any of the other sites out there and use as little of this board's truly abysmal, bloated software as possible. It's bad enough that 'back' requires 3 clicks.

Well, I've viewed a bunch of images from other posters without any issues at all. You guys may have local configuration issues with your computers, possibly the result of some plug-in or other you are running that I am not.I'm trying something here . . . posting a few pics to see what happens: And it works fine for me. I'm running IE 9.0.4 on this computer - and I've just tried an XP machine and that also works fine, running IE 8.0.6

Clearly a Firefox issue, since it works with IE. Solve your problem by using a compatible browser.

I am sorry to hear about your issues - you sound like you got an AVP when you were expecting an SXT at least - and while the 2.4 isn't a huge performer on the highway and you don't save any significant fuel, you DO save a bundle of cash up front - the vehicle can run fast, but as you wrote, it doesn't 'haul' on the highway. Note that you posted that you have an AVP SE - in the US it can be either an AVP OR an SE - but to get the 6 cylinder engine you need at least an SXT - and apparently that's an upgrade (extra cost) option even in that model. You can tell which you have by looking at your tail lights - If they have single light bulbs then you have the entry level AVP. If they are LEDs (a bunch of small lights arranged in a circle) then you have an SE. The US market really doesn't make it worthwhile to move to the SE - the upgrade is a much better deal up here in Canada. The lack of Bluetooth was very common in the 2011 model year - previously uConnect had referred to the Bluetooth feature and dealers were taken by surprise when Dodge/Chrysler decided to change the name of the radio from whatever it was to uConnect. So for 6 months (and more) almost every vehicle in which 'voice command' (which is what they now call the Bluetooth feature) was an option (in 2011 that would be everything below the R/T) - came without. And the salesmen were clueless. But dealers know now and there's no excuse for not bringing the lack of the feature and it's availability as an 'at time of order' option to your attention. They made that same mistake with mine and I caught it at delivery - but there's no way to add it and I wasn't willing to spring for an extra $5K for Bluetooth, though admittedly that would have included everything my SE Plus was missing. So I accepted delivery and while I'd like to have had the bigger engine, I am happy to have paid less than $19,500 for my vehicle which ought to have sold discounted for $22K and saved that bundle up front. For Bluetooth I have a top-of-the-line Garmin navigator perched above the mirror and wired to power through the headlner. I have the 3790 LMT, which has voice command, comes with traffic and lifetime map updates and apparently is available for $170 as a factory refurbished model through Walmart.com these days. Having said that, and with reference to the wrong interior color and radio and the lack of Bluetooth - why would you accept delivery of the vehicle (papers or not)? Once you accept delivery it is yours - you are supposed to have checked things out and then resolved them before driving off - you had the option of walking away and could claim back any deposit (even if the paperwork said 'non-refundable) if there was any divergence from the agreed-upon specification. They scratched parts? Make them replace them. You want a 8.4 inch radio? They can install it. The only thing that they can't put in is Bluetooth because it requires work in the clockspring and steering wheel and a new 'active' rear view mirror - if it is specified in your contract you *might* be able to force them to spend the $1,800 to put the radio into the vehicle - that might be an inducement for them to swap out the vehicle for what you were ostensibly promised - assuming again that you were indeed baited and switched. If the contract is for a vehicle with an $18K sticker price, understand that you got what you paid for. If your contract was for a vehicle with a $26K retail price and you got an $18K vehicle that is another matter. And while the Katzskins suck, dealers sell that for a lot of money (and, profit). I'm perfectly happy with the cloth seats in my Canadian CVP Plus, thanks. Often the consumer doesn't understand (or simply misses) what the salesman is saying, or is simply projecting what they expect into the words they are hearing - that's why they call it a misunderstanding - it could be that these differences were pointed out, but that you simply didn't appreciate what they meant at the time. Simply pointing out that they were supplying an AVP or an SE and handing you a brochure to refer to puts the onus on you to understand what the model has. - It may sound brutal, but it is the reality that often unfulfilled expectations are simply built up in the mind of the recipient.

Nice concept, but IMO it is simpler to type something to the effect of: convert 10.8 l/100km to mpg or convert 21mpg to l/100km Into the search box on my browser - this works directlly from the address bar in ie9, from the search box in ie8 - or you can just go to google and type it there; my default search engine is Google. The answer comes back calculated to 7 decimal places.

We're organizing a group buy which will cut the cost by at least 25% from the retail - it ought to close mid-to-end July. Read more about it here: http://forums.redflagdeals.com/chrysler-factory-backed-extended-warranties-25-more-off-group-buy-1102770/#post13726686

Check the seals - they might be cracked, deformed, somehow distorted - maybe trapped a twig at some point. The weatherstrip can be replaced. The mechanism could need adjustment.

While I agree that brakes ought to last a long time and that (at least on this forum) there seem to be a lot of people with warped rotors and worn brake pads, this isn't a safety issue and the NHTSA will ignore your posting - the vehicle can be stoopped, even if the steering wheel does vibrate. Feel free to sound off on the topic, but just keep in mind that a 'safety issue' is one that leads to a crash - and the BBB will likewise be sympathetic, but useless. Your only hope is a compasionate judge in small claims court.

Watch what happens next year!!!

If they're changing the rotors, then they need to install fresh pads as well.

Even so, the present problem is not that your car is a lemon, per se, but that Chrysler's dealer has poor diagnostic abilities and you have a vacation coming up - the Camvap process will take a few months. This issue could have happened with any manufacturer's vehicle, not just Chrysler. Search the board for the Camvap references to get the background.

Arbitration is not the issue. The amount is. If you win the buyback would likely be a depreciated amount because the vehicle is more than a year old. Do your own research if you wish - your issue sounds a lot like that of the other owner, though his was a 2011 Pentastar-equipped unit. www.camvap.ca

I'd caught the other post about the engine. The dealer doesn't know what he's doing . . misfiring is usually timing or injectors - no need to rebuild the block unless the rings or bearings are toasted and it is pretty simple to check cylinder/valve health. The problem is more likely bad grounds . . . . . someone else had an issue where the dealer replaced two cylinders not long ago. That owner took Chrysler to Camvap for arbitration the second time they went to do the rebuild and Chrysler bought back his truck . . . I don't think his was a 3.5 and your vehicle is too old for arbitration. You are right. Chrysl;er ought to have taken the entire engine into the lab to determine what was wrong . . I personally suspect it is a corroded connector issue.

The 3.5 is pretty solid except for some manifold issues. You don't change pistons unless there are serious issues with rings and such and that wouldn't usually manifest as misfires - what did a leakdown test show?

Scoring usually happens when you run the pads down until you get metal on metal . . . the wear indicators are usually squeeling loudly long before that happens.

Stuff happens, usually at the worst possible time . . . . The air conditioning odour is probably from mildew - the drain holes may have been plugged by road crap and the water collected and went rancid - there are sprays that can be used to help kill te bacteria. What's the issue with the engine?

Did you actually manage to depress the pedal when trying the start button? Or did you simply push it until you met resistance - the brake lights need to be on for the starter to engage with a button push. Could it be that simple?