bramfrank

Troll

Jay, Great point Tommy; I suggest you run the oil for a couple of thousand miles, then drain off a small amount and have it sent off for analysis to someone like http://www.oaitesting.com/ and see what they have to say. In the meantime put the dealer on notice IN WRITING BY REGISTERED MAIL within 10 days of the event holding him responsible for any damage resulting from whatever it was that happened.

What can't be?

Interior parts aren't going to deteriorate any further and, if you have them where you are, having the vehicle rust-proofed will likely eliminate any possible further damage to exterior components. Where I live rustproofing costs less than $100.

Unfortunately this isn't a Chrysler issue, but rather one between you and the dealer, though it can't hurt to keep Chrysler in the loop. You need to make a FORMAL claim with the dealer IN WRITING and using REGISTERED MAIL!!!! If I was the dealer my question would be to ask you whether the oil light was on when you picked it up - because that's something they will be asking - and it could be a deal breaker for any claim - you aren't supposed to be driving with the oil light on.

Actually the fuse block is BEHIND the glove box - you are supposed to remove it to gain access, but it is simpler to pry two plastic rivets that hold the underdash trim, move it aside and go in from below - the fuse block pivots out from it's mount. As to warranty issues? He tapped the power from a spare fuse location by plugging a blade connector into the fuse socket - no cut wires. Besides, at least on the left side of the Atlantic warranties cannot be invalidated by user modifications, though a claim can be denied if the modification caused a failure - which means I had to pay for my own replacement fuse. $5!!!!!

That's because the oil has settled to the sump overnight and needs to be circulated through the engine - one reason you don't floor the beast on startup..

I had a local shop pull power wiring for my navigator - I wanted them to leave me with one switched and one unswitched wire plus a ground in the headliner of my SE - I was planning to stuff the power cord/traffic receiver where the reading lights are - on an SE PLUS there's lot of space there - the unswitched wire was to power my GPS/GSM tracker. He talked me into running the power cord down the roof pillar - for $50 including a power socket how could I argue? "Give me 30 minutes. Go have lunch and it'll be done and be very neat." So we went out for chicken, came back after 45 minutes - the installation was neat. The navigator is above the mirror and the hanging wire is gone. I drive away and we make it to our first stop - he had given the vehicle back with the windows open - it was a nice day so we drove with them open. When we got to where we were going the windows wouldn't close! So I drove back to the shop and they started looking at the problem. According to the manual the only fuse is a circuit breaker in the fuse panel behind the glove box - they checked it. Every fuse was good and the circuit breaker was good - they checked continuity. They checked the switches and they were good. They then removed the fuse box (it plugs in) and traced the pins and circuits and THEY were good. They then looked at the power feed. There was no feed. Now, there is only the circuit breaker - and there must be a relay somewhere, since the windows are ignition controlled - but there's no reference to it in the Installogy documentation. Turns out (after 2 hours) that one of the boxy 60 amp fuses in the under-hood fuse box is in series with the circuit breaker - and it was open - I believe it was identified as: Interior Power Distribution Center Rail Ignition Run Relay. it was NOT identified as a fuse for the windows, yet that seems to be the only item it feeds power to. So if your power windows stop working, start by checking the master fuse box - look at the middle fuse in the row of 7 and you will likely have found the problem. I certainly seem to have gotten my money's worth in terms of the amount of tech time for my money. I'd have been happier to have had a more productive afternoon.

Be aware that with AWD you would similarly need to replace all 4 (even if they were the same make and series) after a blow out because of the way modern AWD systems work - so you might want to at least keep it away from the R/T. There are alternate 19" tire sizes that will fit, but when replacing ANY tire, even with a front wheel drive vehicle you need to replace a damaged tire with one similar to the one on the other side of the vehicle - in other words, if you can't get a (pick a tire and series) you need to replace both fronts or rears at a minimum - speaks volumes for using full size spares.

These window systems may not be designed with an 'anti-pinch' feature, in which case they would not allow remote control of the close feature under any circumstance. Not morons, liability-shy.

Well, Burn hit this one too, so I guess I should reply to OhareFred: It isn't the watts. It is the lumens. A 9006 puts out all of 1100 lumens. a 35 watt HID does 3200 lumens. A 55 watt HID pushes ~5000 lumens - that's five times as much light as the stock headlight. Way too much light for street operation. Also, so the Canbus might report bulb issues with 35 watt HIDs - put in a load resistor to dissipate the extra watts. Note that the reflector isn't designed for HID bulbs - aim it any way you like, the fact is that there is a huge amount of dazzle (flare) from the reflector - that's one of the reasons why HID conversions and even replacing bulbs with higher wattage ones of the same technology is not street legal.

I am surprised that a moderator would hit a post that is more than 2 months old. For the record, there is no hardware required for any of these features - it is all software.

Well, the web site seems to be a exercise in smoke and mirrors - clearly there was on Crew on the site when I was doing my research (which was after the quake, if that's the reason they puled it) and it wasn't in the brochure the dealer haded to me nor did he offer it a an opyion - it was the SXT or the R/T if I wanted anything above the SE Plus. And, when posted, the Crew's feature list mentioned the rails, but not the crossbars - no crossbars with the R/T Rallye either, but they go out of their way to tell you that. I wanted the crossbars, and managed to score a brand new set of OEM bars on eBay for $60 this weekend, so I'm happy now.

Sounds like a connector is loose.

Bear in mind that HID (or any other lighting) conversions for factory-provided head,tail and marker lights are not street legal - if you get stopped by a knowledgeable officer who has no other reason to ticket you, you could wind up with an equipment violation. I decided to go with with HIR bulb replacements. They are undetectable and double the light output for less than the cost of HID and without having to modify anything. There is a Mopar footwell lighting kit that is supposedly designed for the vehicle - it has a control to adjust the hue of the illumination: http://www.mopar.com/part/82212347?s=335637&i=274815&b=dodge

Note that there may well be *more* bits than just the radio module, depending on just what you are expecting from the upgrade - if you wanted the satellite radio, for example and you don't have it - or if you plan to add Bluetooth or buy the navigation version or backup camera. Then they may be features that require dealer activation to consider.

I'd personally hang it from the windshield above the mirror and run the wiring in the headliner - less 'clutter' that way and you have an unobstructed run to the rear of the vehicle for your camera - you can bring the wiring up through one of the roof pillars. The unit would also be less visible to the casual observer, since it is shielded from view by the black coating on the windshield.

It is US$1100 for the radio, plus all the bits (buttons for the steering wheel, upgraded mirror if you want Bluetooth, plus the satellite antenna for Sirius, installation plus, I suspect a key to be loaded into the unit - this presumes that you go the non-nav route - figure about $2,200 for your trouble - you might be able to sell your DJ privately and get a brand new one for a bit more than the difference, AND the radio will be fully warranted (accessories added after the fact have limted warranties).

Indeed. It will cost about $22K and includes a complete vehicle - you can lessen the impact by selling your current DJ.

Again, it isn't serious at all.

Warranties are intended to protect vehicle owners from premature failures; Engineers design the components to survive at least for the warranty period, though they tend to cut things awfully close. That's why I have been tyring to get people to sign up for the extended warranty group buy.

I got the OEM one for mine - they're all quite light, but they stay put. I got mine on eBay (the same applies to my Husky floor mats) - much less expensive than the local 'stealer'.

I'm guessing that the salt air from the transportation overseas may have impacted and caused some surface rust on unprotected components - but it is very minor. On the other hand I always rustproof my vehicles, not that it would have any impact on a seat back. Doesn't look to be serious, though.

You'd be better off selling your DJ and buying another.

My 4 banger gets a calculated 11.1 l/100km or 21 mpg combined city/highway, but more highway than city. If highway mileage is fine then it could be unconscious leadfoot issues, transmission shift issues or simply road conditions - have you got someone who owns another that you could swap with for a few days? How about renting one just to prove the point? If your mileage is the same on multiple vehicles then it is not likely to be the vehicle.