bramfrank

Note to readers with the 4.3" display: The radio has a design support limit of 1 Gig and 255 songs for USB storage devices for some reason. No such limitation with iPods, though you should note that you CANNOT connect an iPhone to the USB port to use as a music source.

You don't say where you live - winter (and grit, sand or heavy dust) can be very hard on cali[ers, noting that seized calipers happen because of environmental influencrs, rather than because of the vehicle;s mass or the way the drivers operate the vehicle. It sounds to me that you bought a 2 or 3 year old truck with 40K+ miles on it and could have (maybe still can) purchase(d) a factory extended warranty, not that it would have saved you from this next expenditure, which I suspect is about to be a new battery.

The quick answer is: Don't drive at highway speeds with only the rear windows open. And RTFM before complaining about something that almost every vehicle does and which is documented in your manual.

Cars don't have oil level sensors, they have pressure sensors. When the pressure drops to the point where the light comes on it is likely too late. Consider that the OP said he smelled burning and the engine was running rough. He may have caused damage already - he needs to have a leakdown test performed on his engine. And if something happened you can rest assured that Chrysler would try to pin the blame on the owner for not having checked the oil level each day. In modern engines, the use of ANY oil is unacceptable - then again we are dealing with a bunch of Italians here. Look at the crap they produce for the masses. I've read that Chrysler thinks that 1 litre (quart) of oil use per 600 miles (1000 km or so) is considered 'normal'. Somehow I don't think a judge would agree.

Only if the warranty is provided by Chrysler - and if all fairness, you would be better off extending the basic warranty along with the power train - BCMs, window motors, stereos and such can cost a fortune.

Somehow I think she's already purchased her tires. That, plus she has an SE - and that comes with 16" wheels. If she has the SE Plus it will have 17" painted aluminum ones. The 19 only comes on the Crew and R/T up here.

Like I wrote, they may well be using the same block and heads, but a different injection system. If your vehicle will be subject to a recall you will get a notice, as long as you are the owner of record in Chrysler's database. If you really want to now just call the local dealer with your VIN, though it will mean nothing if Chrysler decides to issue a recall a month from now. Just because VW is recalling cars doesn't mean that Chrysler is too, and certainly not before VW - assuming your vehicle IS affected, no recall will be issued until VW engineers a solution, tests and gets the fix approved. Then, and only then would Chrysler start looking at their response. Note that Chrysler USA may not have a record of the recall status for your vehicle in any case.

If you read some of the topics here you'll find that you aren't alone.

Sure they would - they have no diagnostic skills. One hapless member here had his engine rebuilt . . . TWICE . . . before they figured out that you don't get 7 codes from a single problem and then after changing the BCM with no improvement they started replacing wiring harnesses (I had predicted the problem would be a bad ground of connector). I think we're about due to find out whether he managed to get Chrysler to refund his money as he was hoping they would.

So you are one revision behind . . . . at least you aren't the one paying.

There isn't a huge amount of clearance between the wheels and the brake calipers - if your 'lovely wife' managed to hit a curb, the wheel could be out of true enough that it is touching the brakes . . . and, the speed in question has the wheels turning at the resonant frequency for the suspension, so any imbalances are magnified. The noise would also simply be some crud built up on the inner surface of the wheel, tapping the calipers with each revolution. You could also have a bearing starting to go, or a CV joint. To know for certtain, take the vehicle to a trusted suspension mechanic, describe your problem and let him have a look.

The engine is one thing. The fuel system is another. If your vehicle is subject to a recall and if Chrysler has your address on file you wil be receiving a letter from them. If you do not have your vehicle registered with the manufacturer you can either contact Chrysler with your VIN or visit a dealer to find out if there are any oustanding recalls for your CUV.

Your dealer may need some retraining. I was under the impression (someone can confirm or deny) that this was what the second to last firmware upgrade for the radio was addressing, the most recent one being to fix the little sound drop-outs when playing music from USB or the aux input (reminder to self, need to get my dealer to reflash the BCM . . . again).

Yes

Dealer

Does anyone sell door handle covers with the cutout for the lock switch?

My iPod doesn't skip, though playback does have little dropouts that would appear to have been addressed with a recent firmware release that I need to have applied to my vehicle - I wish they'd test their code before shipping it out.

Hmmmmm . . . Their web site doesn't reflect this change . . . I've got to check my local station to see if they have the sticker now. If it is province-wide, it will be interesting to see how this change from Esso affects my fuel economy . . . . it probably took them this long to realise that adding ethanol is like a hidden price increase!!! Then again, it would eliminate my reason for buying only their fuel and those among us who know to avoid ethanol will start taking our business elsewhere.

The headlights adjust? Or is that a European thing?

If you wanted to get techinical, the arrow whould always point up, since that is your direction of travel. Seems to me that it is pointing to the left because you are headed west, which is traditionally depicted os being to the left, north being 'up'.

No. You don't.

Correct about the visibility - lots of the latest models (usually high end ones with corporate headquarters in Europe) equipped with DRLs do that these days. As to complying with EU rules, if the vehicle has it and it works that way you can be certain that it is certified and complies - otherwise they wouldn't be able to sell it. Then again, it won't work the same way for the EU countries if operating it that way violates the rules. There are region specific firmware loads, required because of the impact of local laws in different countries. If DRLs are mandatory there will not be a menu item or other mechanism to disable it - that's why I suggested that they could be disabled in US vehicles - I know that GM higher end cars have the option to disable the feature in the US and Canadian vehicles do not have the menu item to disable the lamps - in fact if you import a US vehicle to Canada that has the feature with the option to disable, that option is supposed to be bypassed before the RIV inspection is done (though they aren't that strict about enforcing it).

I read somewhere that prior to 2011 they used a 315 Mhz sensor and now it is a 433 Mhz sensor. You'd need to buy & install new ones, or simply live with the N/A on the EVIC.

As the General says; If it worked when you gave it to them they have to return it in the same condition. What if they managed to hole a tire while they were moving your car around? Would you accept the vehicle back with a flat tire or worse, pay the bill fotr a replacement tire? That wasn't related to the orignal problem. Would you pay to replace that tire? What if your windshield broke for any reason or they scratched the paint? This is no different. I hope that you are driving one of the dealer's cars while yours is in ther shop - do NOT collect your vehicle until it is properly repaired. Continue to drive theirs. If you take the car back you will have 'accepted' the repair - though I suppose that one could argue that you only noticed that they broke your nav only after you left the lot. If you can't get satisfaction from the dealer and the warranty company won't cover you, pay to repair the vehicle properly, even if it means buying a brand new radio or modules - and make sure you get the old parts because you will have paid for them ( because they will send the old ones back under warranty and claim the labour under some other unit's VIN even if it did come out of your unwarranted vehicle) and make the dealer pay any deductible then sue both parties in small claims court and let the judge decide whether it is the dealer or the warranty company that has to pay. The only thing that is certain is that YOIU aren't the person who should pay for this repair, no matter how the problem occurred. Document everything. Keep a journal. Do not agree to pay for anything. If you can't get the dealer to accept responsibility for his actions make HIM negotiate with the warranty company - you should not have to pay anything to anyone as this is between the dealer and your warranty provider. If this gets confrontational, send a synopsis to the dealer by registered mail and demand the dealer fix the item that HE broke. (You'll need this type of documentation to prove you did everything you could to the judge). If the warranty company tries to duck responsibility, make sure you send registered letters to them - be polite and firm and include the phrase 'Without Prejudice' in the letters. Feel free to point out that you WILL sue in small claims court if you don't get satisfaction. The good news is that if you are forced to lay out funds you will get a bit of interest on the money that you will have paid - a lott more than a bank would. The bad news is that most dealers, warranty and insurance companies know that 99% of people who threaten to sue never actually do. Most clients will accept some sort of settlement or worse, do nothing, so they just blow you off. Remember that you can only sue to recover money spent, so if you DO accept a settlement of some sort you will have a lot of bad feelings, but no basis for a claim.

The way it is implemented is rather interesting . . . they run the 'high' beams at a lower level (seems like about a 50% duty cycle). When you switch on the turn signals the headlamp on that side is extinguished while the turn signal flashes . . . . when the turn signal is returned to normal, the headlight comes back on.