bramfrank

Yup, there is a delay. It is annoying, but normal. It is an artifact of the design because they run the horn through the BCM.

DRLs are mandatory in Canada, not in the US, though it may be a feature that can be enabled in the US version of the Journey. There is no dedicated lamp for the DRLs, they operate the headlights at lower levels for daytime operation. The fog lights (such as they are) are a feature of the vehicles with trim levels above the SE (SE Plus in Canada) - so any photo you see of a North American Journey on any web site that has fog lights is something you can use as your reference.

Unfortunately my SE doesn't have the BT option (in spite of promises made at the time of purchase), so I don't know if the feature supports A2DP (Stereo) connectivity at all. I will say that a BT connection will not allow you to use the radio's controls to deal with the iPod nor will it display song titles and such under a wireless connection. But I have been waiting to hear from someone who has a 4.3 and uses a thumb drive for his music so I could compare operation to mine. So if you don't mind, I have a couple of questions for you Ricky . . . . . What size is your thumb drive? How much music do you have on your thumb drive? How many songs? How much data? How is it organised? (all in the root directory? Alphabetically folders? Some fixed number of songs per folder?) Does the radio recognise more than 255 songs from your drive? Are your radio and air conditioning controls sluggish when you are playing USB music?

No

35 - 4200k

Lubing the sliders wouldn't be covered under warranty. It is considered a maintenance issue. If you feel a grinding or hear screeching it is not normal and needs to be properly checked out - overheated disks probably need turning, or better yet, replacing. Your 'over-steer' is very strange - how could the vehicle NOT be controlled by the driver to the point of going up on someone's lawn . . . .? Took foot off pedal, pressed accelerator and there was 'no go' . . . did the engine speed up and the vehicle stayed put? Did the engine NOT speed up, and the vehicle stay put? Even if the vehicle pulls right, counter steering will make it go straight, even if the wheel is clamped tight - she needs to control the vehicle, especially in 'problematic' situations. If it is pulling that bad then the caliper may be stuck - and unless it is due to corrsion from salt that SHOULD be covered under warranty. However this is all just conjecture. Remote diagnostics require complete information. As far as I can tell, we don;t yet have enough details.

Re spell check: Download ieSpell - it will add manual spell checking to your IE browser. As to adding auto headlights and other neat stuff; In this age of CAN-Bus they don't run wires anywhere. Instead they run the data bus to each device and stick a small computer into the item that is controlling or being controlled. Then they tell the BCM about the item. Of course some things (like the backup camera or the illuminated visors, home-link or active rear view mirror don't need power or access to the data bus if they're not installed - the question is whether they make a universal wiring harness or whether they have a few different ones that depend on which trim level you may have - and I for one am not going to take my car apart to find out for someone else. The fog lights are add-able as a kit that includes a new headlight switch - there are two versions, one for cars with and another for cars without the automatic headlights. The difference is the headlight switch. I wonder if the connectors are the same? I wonder if the ambient light sensor is installed if you don't have the feature? I wonder if it CAN be installed without hacking up the wiring harness. When my LHS is retired I plan to take the auto-dimming mirror it has and install it in my Journey - it simply needs a 12 volt feed from switched power and a feed from the backup lights (which defeats the dimming function while the car is in reverse - I can lose that feature is necessary). At least THAT isn't a huge job to figure out.

The dealer closest to my home (whom I didn't buy from) ordered up a fresh vehicle from inventory, attached a dealer's plate and tossed a set of keys at me when I was shopping - he told me to have it back within 24 hours and not to put more than 50 km on it. I brought it back the next morning and simply handed the keys to the receptionist - he never even bothered to follow up with me. I was there with my then 17 YO daughter and SHE drove it off the lot with me following.

Dealers are allowed to price their vehicles any way they like - unless the window sticker on your vehicle says that it has an 8.4" display and it doesn't (and even then, because that omission would have been obvious had you inspected the vehicle at the time of delivery) you have no claim. You negotiated a deal, entered into a contract, signed a receipt for delivery of the vehicle and paid (or arranged payments) for it. The reality is that they weren't including 8.4s for a while and now they're back - every brochure and every price quoted says that dealers set their prices and that specifications are subject to change. My dealer claimed my unit had Bluetooth - it doesn't, but then it isn't mentioned on the window sticker either. However unless it is specifically included on the bill of sale and is a built-in option that's missing I am obligated to take delivery once the contract is signed. While I wish you luck I strongly suspect that you will never see the $1,000 you'd like to get from them.

Don't be put off if the one you are looking at doesn't come with Bluetooth - in the US the high line models include it but it is an extra cost option for all models in Canada and on the lower trim levels in the US. At this time the integrated one cannot be added after the fact no matter what the salesperson says. If yours doesn't have it you can always get a separate one - mine is a function of my Garmin navigator, though I also have a unit from Scoche that uses the auxiliary input in the console and the sound comes out the built in speakers . . . it switches automatically if you plug your music source in to the aux as well (with this solution you would need to switch over manually to access your phone if you were using the radio or an iPod plugged into the USB)

Quick answer: There is one style for the Husky brand, available in several colours: Black, Tan and Gray. I paid about US$68 shipped (to a destination in the US) for the fronts and the same for the rears when I bought mine on eBay from a vendor called 'wehaveitauto' at the beginning of November. Here's a link to Husky's product page: http://www.huskyliners.com/Custom%20Molded%20Floor%20Liners?ct=29&d=2&dt= Link to wehaveitauto's listing for the fronts in black: http://www.ebay.com/itm/290622114579 Link for the rears: http://www.ebay.com/itm/290622113833 I also have the Mopar cargo liner - it uses a somewhat heavier plastic than the Husky one, but doesn't have the 'nibs' that the Husky does that would keep it from shifting around (not that the Mopar one moves at all). I also bought my cargo mat on eBay, but from a Dodge dealer called 'South Oak Dodge'. Paid US$63 shipped. Link to their eBay Journey accessory product page: http://stores.ebay.com/South-Oak-Dodge-Chrysler-Jeep-Inc/Dodge-Journey-/_i.html?_fsub=450345119&_sid=324365909&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

@Geer: With respect, your dealer probably has no idea - and the simplest answer for him to give woiuld be a negative.. If you want the real answer you'll need to do more direct research.

Just so you know, accessories added after the fact are NOT covered by any extended warranty, whether they are Mopar or not..

For the moment there is no mechanism to add the factory Bluetooth to the 2011 and 2012 Journeys that were delivered without. You can blame the dealers and the manufacturer both; Chrysler used to call the Bluetooth uConnect - now that refers to the entertainment systems and the Bluetooth is called Uconnect Voice Command - go figure. The dealers didn't notice the change and and didn't order it. Chrysler for some reason failed to notice that very few of their cars were being ordered with this feature (which really ought to be standard equipment to be honest). So many, many 2011 vehicles, including R/Ts and such have no built in Bluetooth - I have a Garmin navigator doing that job, though I also a a Scoche unit that plugs into the Aux input that I can use as well.

In Canada you get the logo with the Rallye version of the R/T - another of our little variations up here.

@itfchaos; Your sig says you have a 2011. Your content says it is a 2010. Your other post about your 19" wheels doesn't mention problems. Just sayin'. . . . . I had this problem with my other Chrysler when it was new - we went through 5 sets of tires at Goodyear's expense before we figured it out. Everything was perfectly balanced, yet at speed it would vibrate - though only after a few hundred kms were put on the tires. Chrysler was no help. It turned out to be (in my case) that the tires had slipped on the rims and twisted slightly, essentially making them slightly out of round. Too much rim lube will do that. You wouldn't notice it at slower speeds, yet the suspension tends to be resonant at whatever turns out to be about 100 kph (60 mph) and it amplified the out of round issue to the point where it was beyond annoying. Most shops are clueless - if it is a transmission or engine issue then down shifting while driving along would make the problem go away. Because the issues are speed related rather than tied to engine RPM or a specific gear selection, one would expect to find the problem somewhere between the output of the transmission and the road surface. Check to make certain your wheels are truly round. As one posted indicated, do an 'on vehicle' dynamic spin balance AFTER doing one off the vehicle to see if the problem isn't in the hub somewhere - once you have the on-vehicle balance done properly you can run it at 60 mph on a lift to see of the vibration is in the drive-line. Diagnostics is a science, with a tinge of black art. Eliminate the issues one at a time and approach the problem methodically and you will isolate and resolve the problem. Scatter-shot techniques are inefficient and expensive.

According to the Dodge web site In the US the grips are on the Crew and above - the AVP, SE and SXT don't get them. And I quote: Crew Features included in base price Includes Everything on SXT, Plus: bla bla bla Permium Headliner Group w/Passenger Assist handles bla bla bla

Please keep this thread up to date because I too would like to add the grab handles (there would be 3 I suppose?).

Sell the Jeep wheels and trade someone for his 17" wheels - if you were closer I'd possibly be willing to do a deal with you, depending on tire wear (I have about 3,000 miles on my truck and the wheels and tires are off for the winter). I like the look of the 19" wheels better than the OEM 17" ones on my ride.

I have an '00 LHS parked in my driveway with the 3.5 liter engine that doesn't use a drop of. In fact of all the cars I've ever owned going back to my first (which was a 1972 Datsun 240Z bought new - THAT was a fun car, even if it rusted out in 4 years) none has ever used enough oil to need watching and included winter 'beaters' and such. Having said that my father had a 1999 Caddy de Ville with a Northstar engine that needed a quart of oil with every second fill up - because he never mentioned it to me I didn't realise it until long after the warranty was up or I'd have chased GM on that - and if my Journey were to consume a liter every 600 km I'd be yelling loud and clear. One more reason to have an extended warranty - I'm still trolling for members for the buyer's group and based on what I'm reading it is almost a no lose proposition.

I don't have a Pentastar, but since fuel consumption is pretty similar for the 4 as compared to the 6 (because economy is largely dictated by power demand, not how many cylinders your engine has - and, of course engine efficiency, and with the 6 speed tranny, the Pentastar engine will sit in the power band (which is the sweet spot for fuel consumption) better with than with the 4 speed unit in the 2.4). From what I'm reading in this thread, I gather you are resetting the EVIC and going for a drive - analysing stop and go for city driving only is going to look truly ugly, especially if you are using the remote start, sitting in traffic on the 15 or 13 twice a day and more - economy ratings are based on ROLLING TIME and a standard set of road conditions. You aren't buying E85 because we can't get that in Montreal, but you may well be running E10 - buy your gas at Esso - they don't put Ethanol in their gasoline in Quebec (yet). That could buy you a 10% increase in fuel economy right there. If you are running 'premium' grade gasoline and the engine spec doesn't call for it you could be sacrificing another 5% of your economy (and paying a lot more for the privilege). Based on your comments that YOU (as opposed to your wife) are getting appropriate mileage for highway runs I strongly suspect that there's nothing wrong with the car. How much fuel do you put in when you fill up? Note that a tank of gas weighs about 125 pounds and that if you aren't letting it run all the way down you will get noticeable benefits by letting the tank empty before filling up, though if you park indoors at both ends of your commute you could also get condensation in your tank at this time of year - that's a heck of a trade-off.. Going to full synthetic isn't going to help your mileage much, by the way. But as long as you aren't stretching the mileage between oil changes it does help a bit. The idea is that we tend to change our oil because it collects contaminants, not because it breaks down. And to answer the question someone else asked about stoplight engine shutdowns and air conditioning . . . vehicles that use the technology have electrically powered air conditioning compressors. While fuel consumption may benefit to some degree using stoplight engine shutdowns, battery power is used run the vehicle for the duration of the shutdown and to restart the car and that needs to be replaced, the starter motor and solenoid are exercised more and the vehicle is therefore subject to more wear - and you get heat buildup from an engine switched off in heavy stop and go driving on hot summer days to consider as well. A comment to he who thought the 19" wheels make a difference . . . they don't, because the wheel/tire combination doesn't weigh appreciably more (in fact I believe it is less, based on my hefting about my 17"" summers and my 16" winter wheels) than a smaller steel wheel with a honking big tire on it but hauling about 500 pounds of engine and AWD hardware DO make a difference in city driving, not to mention that even moderate leadfoot driving in traffic makes a real big difference. Just the fact that the OP's wife got 30l/100km (7.8 mpg) average mileage in her Jeep may speak volumes. At this point I'd wager that the issue is the driver and the environment. My EVIC usually says 11.8 or so for my combination of city/driving, but I never reset the unit - my GPS does keep a record of my fuel use, though it is in the car so I can't tell you what it says. I went to Ottawa last week to get my son and the consumption dropped to 9.7 (overall average) and since I'm back has pushed back to 10.5 l/100 km - but those are indicated values, not calculated. I strongly believe that the EVIC does not accumulate averages based on distance travelled since the last reset, but only for some smaller number of miles (which can be restarted) - I think they only look at the last 1000 km or so for the display - because a 400 km trip shouldn't impact on average mileage as much as the trip to Ottawa did. Edit: I decided that Christmas day was a good time to update the maps in my nav . . . so I had a look at my gas mileage. According to the records I have purchased fuel 18 times (not always filling up, so only the overall averages really count - also, the vehicle wasn't delivered with a full tank of gas, which skews the numbers somewhat in the negative direction. According to the navigator I have put in some 633 liters of fuel and traveled 5230 km, for an average consumption of 11.98849 liters/100 km (that's 19.706 mpg for you 'muricans) . I'm no leadfoot and I don't leave the vehicle idling nor have I gotten stuck in traffic for any extended periods - the majority is highway/freeway, but a good 30-40% is in-city driving. It is about what one would expect for this weight of vehicle during cooling temps - and I've put in about 2/3 of that as E10 which does impact on economy (can't find E0 in the US unless I put in 'high test', which undoes the economy benefits of dumping the ethanol because it costs more and delivers less mileage than 'regular grade' E0 would.. Besides, putting in ethanol every so often is a good thing because it tends to scour things clean in the fuel system as long as it doesn't settle out. If the OP would like to check out how my SE Plus rides I might be amenable to a ride-along or a swap for a couple of hours.

There are differences - for some reason the entire line is riddled with small, almost insignificant differences between the models - for example the SE Plus in Canada (which is the equivalent of the SE in the US - the base Canadian model is called the CVP for 2012 where the US is the AVP), for example comes with 17" aluminum wheels, retractable cargo cover, Body colour mirrors, Floor mats, LED tail lights, roof rack with crossbars. In the US, the SE has 16" steel wheels w/hubcaps, no cargo cover, black mirrors, no floor mats, incandescent tail lights, roof rack w/o crossbars. Not sure if the AVP or SE come with the leather shifter & steering wheel that the SE Plus does in Canada. Likewise the US R/T is available as FWD, the R/T in Canada is only AWD - in fact if you want AWD in Canada, your only choice is the R/T. There's more. Does the US R/T have the logo stitched into the seats? Suffice it to say that the differences are there (and annoying).

Oh. And it IS on the Dodge.ca web site - it says 'image coming soon'.

The specific differences between the R/T and the R/T Rallye edition are: Premium 19-inch Satin Carbon aluminum wheels • Body-colour crosshair grille • Body-colour door handles • Black leather-faced seating with Red accent stitching and front R/T embroidered seatbacks • NOTE: Roof rack not included Looks to me that the main differences between the R/T and Rallye are the carbon-faced wheels and the red seat stitching and R/T logo on the seat faces. They downgrade the door handles and grille to body coloured and remove the roof rack. MSRP on the Rallye is $31,495 according to the Yahoo web site.

You have the larger screen though, right?