bigtsr

Welcome to the forum. The tail light issue may be as a result of the TIPM(power distribution module) shutting the circuit down , this can sometimes be reset by disconnecting the car battery for 5 - 10 minutes , most electronics don't turn voltage off they switch ground path off. The keyfob just pries apart look for an access wedge hole along the seam between the 2 halves after removing emergency key , batteries are typically CR2032 lithiums and run 2-5 dollars.

As I recall this has been posted before and it was either the sensor or the wiring to it that was the culprit - the wire at the sensor is of course the easier to check.

No the TPMS system will adjust to "NO SIGNAL" after a few kilometers and automatically bypass the warning and when you put summers back on it will read them again.

Getting out of the DJ with the fob will allow the engine to run until turned off , using the remote start is totally different as there is a software implemented timer and according to my '11 manual it is set to 10 minutes to auto shut off.

jkeaton you say your '13 DJ has no liner in the rear seat wells!

I have one on my '11 and it's fastened to the underbody rear bumper structure with a tiewrap.

Welcome to the forum. I don't doubt the validity of you impression/complaint with regards to handling in snow. There have been numerous posts here regarding individual results about these concern. I personally have driven some of the same cars you noted in winter conditions and some are better than others , this winter has seen our area with 24" of snow and extreme cold being the norm. Having said that I personally experienced little problem driving my 2-1/2 yr old DJ SXT FWD with original OEM tires which will replaced this fall.

If you google" 2011 dodge journey tail light wiring" there all kinds of video or schematics sites.

I appreciate the appearance factor and possibly the protective qualities this would give but with the size of the DJ remote carrying that in my my front jean pocket could lead to embarrassment. lol

No!!!!!!!!!!!!!

In the automotive reality world there are "very few" manufacturer owned dealerships and these are usually showcases in and around their manufacturing facilities. Your typical dealership works on the edge of profit margins and therefore if they don't want to spend money on keeping their employees on the cutting edge of skill and knowhow there are ways to do it while keeping the brand manufacturer of your back. A great deal of their profit lies in the extras the sales staff can sell to the buyer and therefore the marketing of 8.4N or 8.4AN is usually about dollars and whether the salestaff has the peripheral component knowledge to upgrade the buyer with these attractions and we all know what the turnover can be like in the sales department. I agree with Redtomatoman it would be nice if choices were simplified.

Still on stock Kumhos and we have had about 24" of snow so far this month (very unusual) and have been out almost everyday - if I have any doubts I stay home.

I have over 18000 miles on my original Kumho tires and they are worn but still serviceable. They are soft construction as you can see by the friction marks on asphalt by turning them lock to lock while standing still,I think aggressive drivers will find them wearing quite fast.

Yes winter gas formulation is used in Canada and as expected it does lower mpg in a similar amount.

I have owned a number of Chrysler automatics with the shift lock solenoid and never have experienced its failure,this is not a safety problem but would generate a TSB (tech service bulletin) IF it were a persistent problem.

I find the standard seat quite comfortable and I am 6'2" @ 220 lbs.

Congrats more knowledge in the database.

Does it do it with both fobs when you the only user or have you tried swapping them?

Well in that it's still empty I guess it's a matter of having towed back to the shop that made the mistake or just fill it and take a chance. Alternatively you could call them and state the facts to see what action/choice you are left with to follow.

As I understand what you have said the camera transmits proper pic with 9vdc battery. Is that correct? Normally the cameras are activated by the line voltage to the backup lamp assy and I would suspect you have the right polarity to the camera,possibly try powering it with 12vdc from any of the outlets to see if it works then. You may have to put a dc relay in the backup lamp line in order to actuate it and supply via the relay a 12 vdc from source (car battery) directly to the camera.

Usually it states right on the packaging if it's CANBUS compatible.

Certainly did not do it any good - unfortunately it will be hard to prove their negligence as you already topped it up,unless of course they did it to more than just you.

Think about it - you both have similar problem with similar aftermarket product installed.

I haven't experienced this as of yet but could it be as simple as making sure the wheels are not turned hard left/right on start-up in very cold temperatures. Mine is usually parked in the garage with the wheels facing straight ahead.

CANBUS is the propriety operating system that actuates all the electronics via data signals over the existing wiring,when you introduce an externally produced product to the system it has to be designed to work with these actuating signals i.e. turning them on/off. Yes the lights are already LEDs but this device is supposed to make them flash/cycle.