FROGBOX

The pictures were hosted by fototime and they had a catastrophic event a few months ago. All photos were lost and they basically ceased operating. I lost over 1000 pictures. I had hundreds of how to posts like this one as a member of tdiclub. It will be a monumental task to try to find all the pictures in my backed up drives, but I will see what I can do.

Great info sir. Thank you for sharing the list. One question I have is about the screen. Car-part lists 2 possible 8.4" screens. One with nav and one without. Does it really matter which screen I get? the Nav info is in the head unit, so not sure why the screen matters. It just displays the info sent to it from the head unit, no? Is there really a difference? With nav part number = 5064993AG W/o nav part number = 5064976AH

Ouch. You paid dealership prices for the parts? If you haven't installed the parts yet, and the dealership will take the calipers & brackets back, there are much cheaper options. First option is used calipers & brackets. Go to www.car-part.com Coreys Auto wrecker in London has a set of front calipers & brackets for $60 per side. So for $120 instead of $435, you are halfway there. Then go to www.rockauto.com to order the pads & rotors. The same ones you bought (Centric) are $70 each rotor & $40 for the pads. Shipping is quite expensive, but still cheaper than buying local. The dust sheilds & pin kit you might as well keep as they are not that expensive. The second option is all new/rebuilt parts from Rock Auto. Centric calipers are $127 each (which includes a $82 core charge) and they include the brackets. So $127 per side instead of $219 from the dealer.

My apologies and thanks for letting us know. I had so many screens open from different parts web sites I must have copied the wrong one. The original post has been edited with the correct part numbers. Thanks again. One note, the BRE part number I found is 68159579AC, which is different from yours???

Your calculations are a bit off. I believe the OEM wheels have a offset of 37, so there is a 12mm difference. BUT, the stock wheels are also only 7" wide and the ones you are planning on buying are 8", so you have to add 1/2" (~12mm) on top of the offset. So in reality, those rims will sit almost 1" further out than the stock wheels. In my opinion, the stock wheels are tucked too much into the wheel arches to begin with. The 25 offset would make the wheels more flush to the body and will look much nicer.

The parts for the rear upgrade is listed in post #30 in this thread. However, I do not suggest spending the $$$ on upgrading the rears to new parts. If you can't find the parts used, wait till you can. There will be more 2013's & 14's in the wrecking yards in the next few years. You can get everything from a wrecked Journey for around $150 and do the swap later.

My rear pads were worn down almost to the metal, so I couldn't wait to get the larger rears. I had to go aftermarket. I went with a Powerstop Kit. Drilled & slotted rotors & ceramic pads. They are holding up fine.

My advice is to try to find some of the parts used from a wreckers. I have seen the calipers & brackets sell for between $35 - $75 per side. Then, all you need is a set of new rotors & pads and you're golden. If you have an address to have them shipped to in the States, get the parts from Rock Auto. Best prices anywhere on the net. Heavy Duty front rotors - Raybestos part number 780964 - $60 each Professional Grade front pads - Raybestos part number PGD1589C - $55 Total cost for the parts will be between $300-$350 depending on how cheap you can get the calipers.

Its not necessarily a poor design, it just needs maintenance. There are LOTS of cars with the exact same design. The stainless steel shims are corrosion resistant. However, the steel bracket is not. What happens is the steel under the shim traps water (especially salt water in the north) and causes the bracket to rust under the shim. The rust pushes up on the shim and acts like a wedge, putting pressure on the pad, so it is no longer able to float. Simple maintenance can prevent it from happening. Simply remove the caliper, remove the shims, clean the surface under the shim and apply a bit of grease to keep out the water & prevent the rust. Then reassemble. It takes 10 min per side and can be done when rotating the tires. I do mine when I swap between summer & winter wheels.

You are correct in that the fronts do most of the work. When a vehicle brakes, the weight transfers to the front so it has to brake more than the rears. This is done by a proportioning valve in the brake system. However, there are more factors to why he rears can wear out faster. The first is pad size. The rears are much smaller, so there is less material and that makes it easier to wear faster. Also, as mentioned above, the compound can be softer, also causing it to wear faster. Finally, the design of the carrier that holds the pads is different between the front & rear and I have seen it on many makes & models where the shims that hold the pads can cause the pads to get stuck so they don't float. This causes the pads to constantly drag against the rotor since the pads are not releasing fully and they can wear out faster due to that. It is not a lot of pressure, but over thousands of miles, just the slightest bit of drag will still wear a pad. That happened to my journey. I had to replace the rear brakes at 40,000 km (26,000 miles) as they were down to the metal backing. When I tried to take the pads off, I had to pry them off with a pry bar. They should just fall out. Proper lubrication of the brakes should prevent that from happening, so I do that every time I rotate my wheels.

When cars sit for any length of time, the rotors rust. They are bare metal and with no protection, rust very quicky. My rotors will be rusty after only a day or two in heavy rain. Since your Journey may have sat for a long time in the dealer lot, the area under the brake pad may be worse as water gets trapped and if the rust is bad enough, the rotor can get pitted in that spot. So each time that section of the rotor passes under the pad, the pad grabs it a bit more since it is not as smooth. This constant grabbing in one spot can feel like a severe shudder, similar to warped rotors. Eventually, the spot will wear down and be the same as the rest of the rotor. But since you replaced them already, then just motor on.

Probably just air. They want $3 per wheel for nitrogen

Which rims are you having them put on? I thought you were getting new ones under warranty? I guess I got lucky with my local CT. They had 4 in stock and I was in & out in 45 min. urprised they can't get them quicker than 7-15 days though. If its in a warehouse, they should be able to get them within 24 hours. Glad you found a set. Please let us know what you think when you have tried them.

Similar looking wheel can be found here for a very reasonable price: http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseUpServlet?target=runWheelSearch&initialPartNumber=F1012735S&wheelMake=Sport+Edition&wheelModel=F10&wheelFinish=Silver+Painted&showRear=no&autoMake=Dodge&autoModel=Journey&autoYear=2013&autoModClar=Crew&filterFinish=All&filterSize=All&filterBrand=All&filterSpecial=false&filterNew=All&filterWeight=All&sort=Brand Only issue is they are 18". But that means tires will be cheaper too.