AstralRT

Any idea if the heater core lines can be reached from above without taking parts off the engine? Its too cold to want to be crawling underneath the car now

206000 km (128000 miles) is not that high of mileage for a chain engine. Part of the reason I gave it a shot. Also keep in mind my issues started as early as 80000 km (50000 miles) and major issues around 140000 km (87000 miles) In my mind DJ stands for Dodge Junk now, especially when compared to the longevity I've received from my current and past Honda's for example. Like I said before, enjoy the DJ while under warranty but ditch it before it's done to save on the headache it's guaranteed to cause. I prefer to keep cars long term so the quality of Chrysler has proven not meet my expectations. There is a reason they have such low resale value.

I expect to take some heat for this on this forum, however I have to base my opinion on my own experiences. Do yourself a huge favor and put your money on a Toyota or Honda. As Scotty would say "Chryslers are endless money pits" and based on my experience I have to agree. Three of my Honda's have cost me a fraction of the maintenance that my Dodge as cost me, and I bought the thing brand new and it came direct from the factory with my name on the window sticker, no other drivers or even test drivers beyond the 12 km used in transporting the thing on/off the truck/train. I've learned my lesson and rather spend more upfront on a reliable Toyota or Honda and have a solid vehicle for 10+ years than save on the purchase only to be spending through the nose on constant repairs. To put it in context I have a 2003 CRV with 381000+ km, 2004 CRV with 235000+ km and 2006 civic with 130000+ km. All only ever needing regular maintenance such as brakes and oil changes. (Thats approx. 746000 km without much worry or hassle) My 2012 DJ R/T , on top of brakes and tires and other scheduled maintenance has needed a new cam shaft, lifters, viscous coupler, wheel hub, thermostat, blend door actuator, blue tooth unit, battery, rad fan, replacement of lock lug nuts because the lock key split in half due to dealer putting them on with their impact power tools and the factory tire wrench warpping because the lug nuts were put on so tight from dealer, and two lug nuts (so far) that have stripped their cheap chrome caps even after I put them on myself according to torque spec. This DJ has now 206000+ km but problems started as early as 80,000 km. I'm honestly at the point where I am giving this thing away to a family member that is in desperate need of a vehicle and I am washing my hands of it. They have full disclosure of the history and are ok with it considering the vehicle is free for them I suspect I'll still be pulled into working on it for them, but at least the worry and cost won't be mine and I'll keep driving my old Honda's worry free. Bottom line: I feel betrayed by Fiat/Dodge and can't recommend them based on my experience. If you do get one, keep it under warranty and dump it as soon as warranty is over. Thats my honest opinion.

I am having more issues with my 2012 R/T 3.6 AWD w/Tri-climate Now that things are getting cold I've noticed that there is limited to no heat from front passenger side including front side defrost vent and very limited heat from driver side center vent. There is heat from the driver side by the door and floor, rear vents and front side defrost vents but ONLY when coolant temp reaches above 90°C (194°F) , problem is when the colder temps below 0°C the coolant temp drops to low 80°C (176°F) when driving. I suspect multiple problems, just looking to bounce this off the knowledgeable experienced folks on this forum. For the passenger side I suspect a bad actuator door as the cold A/C was blowing perfectly fine during the summer. For the temp dropping so low when driving I suspect a thermostat stuck open, however I never watched the coolant temp this closely before there was a problem so I'm not sure if dropping to low 80s is normal? My coolant level is not low, in fact its a shade higher than normal. I haven't checked the heater core lines, I'm not familiar with where they are located the DJ. Are they only accessible from up top or can I get to them underneath? Are they very delicate to work with? Would a clogged heater core cause these issues? Do you think I should flush the heater core? Is there something else that might be causing these symptoms that I haven't listed? I've heard the oil cooler could have impact on getting no heat too but not sure how, aren't they on different coolant systems?

I picked up a used Viscous at the wreckers for $20 CAD and 20 mins of personal labour. I'll update once I get around to putting it on. I realize a used one like this is a gamble, but compared to the cost of new, its worth a shot.

I need to replace the viscous coupler on my 2012 3.6 R/T Rallye AWD and I'm wondering if anyone has any photos, vids or diagrams showing what bolts/clamps I may encounter. Looking at the viscous unit part diagram it appears there are only 4 bolts mounting the unit to the differential, but that isn't a repair manual diagram so I'm wondering if there are any clamps or hidden bolts the product diagram is not showing? https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-bdorc-rear-axle~68058066ab.html?Make=Dodge&Model=Journey&Year=2012&Submodel=&Filter=(E=ERB;T=DG2;M=R%2fT+AWD) I'll be pulling a used one from a scrap yard so I will have a "practice" run before tackling it on my own but would like to go fully prepared with all the need tools. Any help from anyone on this would be greatly appreciated.

On another note, I'll be trying to do this part swap myself. Does anyone have any diagrams/instructions I can review before I get started? Would it be best to drop the entire differential and then remove the viscous unit? I'll be pulling one off in the scrap yard (assuming I can find one there) I'd hate to be part way through doing the job and run into a situation where I need a special tool or removal of other parts to access.

Looks like since I posted in May the price of this unit has just about doubled and I have yet to do the repair, I've just been driving my other car What would cause such a price hike? Did demand go up? If demand is up does that mean these are faulty and there will be a recall?

P0306 misfire code last fall along with knocking. Replaced cam shaft, 6 lifters and plugs. Misfire resolved but knocking persisted. This week P0305 misfire code, I'm worried I might need another big repair. Combine that with a P06DD code that triggers when oil temp is below 70 degrees celsius, told I need a new oil pump because the sensor is built in, I'm not sure I even want to keep my R/T Rallye any longer.

Warranty is long gone, currently sitting at around 200K km. I'll have my local guy do the work, it'll be cheaper than the dealership. Looks like the part is going to run me around $500+ CAD plus labour to install Not sure I want to take a chance on ebay or not.

My 2012 has been doing this for the last 50K KMs or so. The dealer couldn't find the issue and blamed it on uneven tire wear affecting the AWD, so I put on new tires from Costco. Same problem. I had my local mechanic check everything out and the checked out the differential and said the internals were good and did a fluid flush. Same problem continued. I was due for a transmission flush and was hopeful that would help, it didn't. With the engine troubles I've been having with mine this issue kind of taken a back burner but I would like to get it fixed. Thank you for sharing your experience and I'll definitely be taking a look at that next. One thing I noticed because I've been driving it this way so long is that it seems to get worse in warmer weather and better in colder weather. I rarely experience in the winter months and also leaving it parked for a while (weeks-months) seems to reduce the occurrence rate for the first little while after driving again. Hopefully changing the part you mentioned will finally allow me to fix this for good.

I had the same problem and fix for a P0306 code last fall with my 2012 3.6. I was hoping it would fall under the TSB but a compression test from the dealership revealed I needed a new camshaft and lifters on front bank. I was also due for plug replacement so that was done at the same time This week I'm hit with a P0305 code and I'm worried I'm gonna need the same level of repairs on the back bank. Last time it cost me $500 CAD just for diagnosis from the dealership. I like to avoid that cost again if possible. Not sure why they had to do two separate diagnosis last time, I was told it was due to the TSB and it not falling under that issue.

Anyone know of any videos showing how to replace the oil pump on a 3.6 AWD?

I'm getting the P06DD code. Can that sensor be replaced or do I have to get a whole new pump? I am way out of warranty with 6 years and 190K kms on it.

Would you happen to still have the link to that video? Looks like I have the same problem and my dealer wants $900+tax CAD to replace the entire pump.