AstralRT

TPMS - Tire Pressure Monitor Sensors, special electronic values that tell your car your tire pressure. Used instead of the regular rubber tire valves. EVIC - Electronic Vehicle Information Center. The computer system that is displayed between your RPM gauge and Speedometer, providing information such as tire pressure, gas mileage, etc...

So I'm not sure what happened, but not long after I tried pulling the fuse and amp wires, the audio started working again.....but not right away. Between the time I pulled the fuse and amp wires there was some short driving, a few restarts and some more short driving, at the end of it I gave up and was just parked waiting for someone I had already tried about 5 minutes before and the audio didn't work, but I decided once more and it suddenly worked and has been working perfectly since. I assume the fuse and amp wires had some affect, but because it didn't have a positive affect right away I'm not sure what else might have contributed to the resolve. So as of now everything is working and I'll be keeping an eye on it, I am scared to turn off the audio right now though just incase Thanks for the helpl

So I just tried removing the fuse and also the amp wires, didn't work. Calling the dealership in the morning.

Is this relative to the 2012 8.4n system as well? This exact thing happened to me tonight. Everything is working except audio. Even the audio settings under "more" is disabled. Planning on calling the dealer in the morning and taking a look myself, but was sure how relatives the systems are.

My price was approx. $300. The dealership did give me a decent price adjustment, I believe I've seen some people get charged/quoted upwards to $600.

Mine has a cover

7 seater just gives better flexibility. If you don't mind the initial cost it just gives you the peace of mind that you're ready for anything from 1-7 passenger (incl. driver) without having to putt around in a van. Style and function, the reason I bought a Journey in the first place.

That's my question also, did you get the 4.3 or the 8.4? and which one were you charged for ? A $100 credit isn't too bad if you were charged for the 4.3.

Assuming you still have your sales sheet (yellow paper listing off all options, packages, prices, and taxes) and if it states you paid for the nav with no adjustments later on, then I would fight this with the dealership. Its illegal to charge you for something you didn't receive, and it not like Chrysler is a "Fly-by-night" company. One question though, are you referring to the 8.4 instead of the 4.3 ?

You're right, all seasons would be a compromise. I'd recommend winters and save the all seasons for the only seasons they are meant for, Spring thru Fall.

If you don't like steels but want to save your rims, you can always get cheap winter alloys. Might cost a little more but will save on a lot of wear of the OEM rim.

I went with 17s on 17 inch steels. Much cheaper than buying 19 inch winter alloys and tires.

I'm not familiar with the Journey wiring or fuse setup, but on an older car I had similar things happen. Both times it was broken wires. Once it was right in the door near the controls, the other was in the wiring that runs from inside the door to behind the dash. If you can find the break its easy enough to reconnect or join a piece, just be sure to use the right gauge wire. I've also heard it could be caused by a fuse, but I haven't personally experienced that.

As long as the frequency is correct the Journey will pick up the new sensors automatically after a short drive. Also, if you don't have the sensors there will only be a one time warning when the computer first detects the sensors are missing. For this reason I opted not to send the extra money for sensors this time, maybe next time when I don't have to factor in the cost of new steels.

Based on what I've experienced it will start on high at 4C IF the internal temp is cold (or I assume near outside temp). I've remote started at 4C after being parked for 30-40 minutes and the seats were on high when I got in.

I've also noticed its dependent on the internal temperature as well. For example yesteday when I started for the first time around 1°C came on High, however ten minutes later after shutting off the engine and coming back to it it started on Low, but then again today when the interior was cold it started on High again. Not sure what the exact temperatures are but I'm happy with how it was designed and working.

Assuming you have the alloy rims, you should be able to just look at it and tell. The large caliper is quite a big larger and thinker than the back ones.

I don't recall ever seeing them, but they do look very familiar to the RainX blades that I buy.

The build date should also be posted on the sticker inside the driver door. I believe the models that started getting the larger brakes were the 2012 AWDs built in early 2012. I have the bigger calipers and mine was built in May. If you have the model with the bigger calipers and are getting steel rims, you will need part number X44753 in order to have room for the front calipers. If you don't have the larger caliper there are other options in steels, but this part number will ensure caliper clearance no matter which model you have.

I only use RainX blades and wash. I've tried others and our of what I tried this combination was the best for me.

2009 R/T does not have the larger front brake caliper that was introduced mid way through the 2012 production year. So as far as I know, 16s should fit models that have the smaller brake calipers in front.

The easy tell (besides removing the hub cap if applicable) is to look and see if you can see a black steal rim behind it. Looking at your pictures, they clearly show the brake calipers and rotors. This is not possible with the standard black steal rims with or without hub caps. No tapping needed.

R/T with hubcaps? What size tires do you have? Factory size is 19 inch. Was it bought new or used? EDIT: I just took a look at your gallery and that Journey has Chrome rims, not hub caps. I agree though, I like Alloy rims better than Chrome rims.

Did you find a good company/price to order these? I'm interested in getting a set as well.

Tapping speaker wires won't give you the same bass control as a dedicated sub-out from the head unit. In other words when you crank the bass you'll be getting bass to all speakers plus the sub, instead of high and mid to the speakers and low to the subs. However, if the 4.3 doesn't have dedicated sub-outs why not just trace the wires going to the door speakers. You'll then be able to see which wires are the speakers and then you'll know which ones to tap behind your dash. Assuming of course Chrysler was smart enough to use different color wires. Also, as for the remote wire for the amp, if there isn't one on the back of the 4.3 you'll need some other sort of power switch to turn on your amp. Back in the day l I saw a guy tight for cash run a remote line with a toggle switch tapped into the main power line for the deck to turn on the amp. Not the nicest set up, but it worked for him until he was able to afford swapping out the factory deck.