onecrazyfoo4u

And your DJ will have a rough bumpy idle when sitting still. And of course the appropriate check engine lights. I had mine replaced after I got all the warning signs about 30k miles ago. No problem since the fix!

You should check with the dealer. I recall hearing some issues in the past that the stock amplifier wasn't actually turning on or working. See if there's an issue with the stock system first at the dealer. I have the "premium" audio as well, and you can still hear some decent bass. Of course it's pathetic compared to most systems, but it's at least something. Your amp may need replaced.

So how did you remove the door handle covers? Just by pulling hard on them?

It looks like the light output is much much less then standard halogen bulbs. Looks like it's so poor it's almost a safety issue! Doesn't seem like LED's have a good enough power output for car headlights just yet...

Man I'm jealous, I would have loved for my gray DJ to be a blacktop! Now I have to manually go paint all the chrome trim on mine. Looks great man!

I didn't know they even made full LED headlights. I didn't think they would be bright enough to help out. Interesting...

Thanks for the pic, they are most glossy than I would've thought (just like I wanted)! Did you use the high gloss kit, or low gloss? And that's the anthracite grey color kit right? Did you spray them on the vehicle? Spray the center caps and lug nuts too? Thanks!

Yeah, the stock 8" sub is on the driver's side. I tried popping off the panel once, but it looks pretty involved to get to the sub (have to remove rear seats and the headrest cover). The passenger side I believe houses the HVAC system for the rear heat/AC so I don't think there will be any room on that side unfortunetely.

Lol, to each they're own. 17's IMO look way too small on an SUV/crossover. I got 4 new Yokahoma tires installed last year for $600. I don't think that's expensive at all. I'll be sure to post pics when I do it all. It'll be a couple of weeks before I get to it.

I would be interested to see if the stock sub location could be utilized for an upgraded 10" (probably have to be a shallow sub). The Audio Control LC2i looks interesting. Pretty much the same concept right? Splice into your speakers to create preamp outputs. But this one lets you control level adjustments it looks like. Is that why it costs so much more? I think you'll be fine with the stock dash speakers. That would be a pain to pull the dash to swap them out anyways I'm sure.

Man I would gladly trade you if it weren't for the dang shipping costs. I've always liked the other style of 19" DJ wheels more than the chrome clad 19" ones. But my dealer wouldn't swap my wheels when I purchased it...

Where's the pics?! Can you post some or a link to where you have them? I'd love to see.

Awesome, thanks for the good info. Please update as you make purchase and progress! I'll be interested to see how it goes and what products you choose to go with!

Okay, seems simple enough. You just attach it to any speaker lead and it converts the signal to RCA? Something like this right? http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI35-Adjustable-2-Channel-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1403017263&sr=1-1&keywords=line+output+converters I've never had to do that before since I've always had aftermarket decks with RCA's already included.

So I'm getting ready to plasti dip my stock 19" chrome-clad wheels. I'm torn between black and this new metallic gray. I have a dark gray DJ, and was thinking of trying the Anthracite Grey True Metallic dip: https://www.dipyourcar.com/true-metallics-info.html Looks like it would match the DJ paint pretty darn closely. I'll probably do the high gloss wheel kit (about $53 for 4 cans of anthracite grey and 2 cans of gloss). Has anybody done this color on their wheels or something else? Do you think this shiny gray would look better on a gray DJ, or would matte black look better? I was originally considering matte black, but I think the metallic gray would look awesome.

What is a pac unit? That's what I was wondering with the stock stereo, how to get rca outputs to go to the amplifiers. I think that's the hard part to workaround with the dang integrated stock stereo.

This is also the first vehicle I haven't upgraded the stereo on. I'm used to swapping out the deck first, then speakers and sub. But I wasn't quite sure how to hook up the new amps to the stock stereo. Are there RCA's open behind the stereo to plug amps into? And what about the remote turn on wire, is there something in the stock wiring to add a remote turn on lead? I was never quite sure how to install amps on this vehicle? I would personally stick with infinity or alpine speakers (fairly cheap and great sounding IMO). I've had good success with JL Audio, MTX, and Rockford amps and subwoofers.

I would be scared to get plastidip on my paint though! I guess it peels right off though, just scary... I may give it a shot in the future. Good idea!

I guess the only downside to that would be less efficiency/power out of the 4-channel for the subwoofer. And you wouldn't be able to individually adjust the subwoofer/speaker settings (low pass / high pass cutoffs / etc). I've always run a dedicate sub amp and a dedicated 2 or 4-channel speaker amp for higher power and ease of adjustments.

Cool thanks for the reply. I figured it would be way better to spray the whole thing then trying to tape off just what you wanted to paint and not get the honeycomb. Now I've got to decide if I want to do this. If I do, I'll probably want to spray the door handles to match since it would look kind of weird to have a black front grill with chrome handles. And the roof racks would still be chrome. Ah, sounds like too much work, I'll probably just stick with the chrome accents as is. I'm not even sure how hard it would be to remove the roof racks and door handles.

I ended up going with the Callahan kit on Amazon for $150. I was very impressed with the kit for how cheap it is; they look like good quality parts with ceramic power stop pads. I don't do much city driving, so if I was able to squeeze 60k out of the stock brakes, I'm sure these will last well past 100k miles. My rotors were really warped, the whole car would shake when coming to a stop. My front pads were almost completely gone on both sides. My rears were about half gone (but the inside rear pads were worn to almost be completely gone). I don't understand how the inside pad wears out faster than the outside pad in the rears; wierd. I lubbed up all the caliper slides with new grease while I was in there even though nothing appeared to be locked up or seized. Sprayed some anti-squeel on the backs of the pads before installing. Either way, I'm glad to finally be rid of the crappy stock setup. Took my about 3 hours total to do all 4 corners taking my time...not really any problems or hiccups, easy-peasy. Then went for a drive to bed them in (6 hard stops from 45 to 5mph, followed by a 5 minute cooldown drive). Everything is great. I'll update this thread as the miles tick by.

Did you tape off the honeycomb mesh and spray just the chrome trim...or did you just spray it all?

I just did my brakes (DJ Crew at 58k miles)...replaced them with the Callahan kit on Amazon for $150. I was very impressed with the kit for how cheap it is; they look like good quality parts with ceramic pads. We will see how long they last; but I'm sure anything is better than the stock setup. My rotors were really warped, the whole car would shack when coming to a stop. My front pads were almost completely gone on both sides. My rears were about half gone (but the inside rear pads were worn to almost be completely gone). I don't understand how the inside pad wears out faster than the outside pad in the rears; wierd. I lubbed up all the caliper slides with new grease while I was in there; but nothing appeared to be locked up or seized. Either way, I'm glad to finally be rid of the crappy stock setup. Took my about 3 hours total to do all 4 corners taking my time...then going for a drive to bed them in (6 hard stops from 45 to 5mph, followed by a 5 minute cooldown drive).