onecrazyfoo4u

I'm amazed that the auto lights is an "upgrade" function on the DJ. I thought it was standard on all of them.

I think the only thing in question is whether a 3-channel amp exists to power speakers and a sub. I don't think they do...subs run off of a class D mono amp, and speakers off of a class A/B 2- or 4-channel amp typically. I've never seen an amplifier that combines the two different types. I wonder if you can use the stock amp under the passenger seat to run the front speakers? Disconnect the rear speakers from it and try to double up the power on the fronts? I've found the stock speakers/amp plenty loud enough for my needs. Just a huge lack in bass that's dissapointing. But it's the wife's kid hauler, so I probably won't splurge the cash on upgrading it...

Here's a link to what I ordered with pictures. They are inclosed in a box with no label, no polarities, nothing. http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/Error-Code-Eliminator-3-PAIR

That's the weird thing though, is there's no way to check the polarity on the capacitor error eliminator that I know of. It's not labeled, so I just installed it whatever way clipped on to the oem wire harness. Is there a way to check capacitor polarity with a multimeter? Sure hope I didn't damage anything in the electrical system!

Okay, good to know, so first time they fire up I'll let the run for awhile. I noticed that there was a slight yellow film inside the HID bulb itself...hopefully that's not a sign of bad bulbs. Another weird thing is after the capacitor popped, the other side headlight oem headlight wire was only getting 6 volts (put the stock bulbs back in)...and that side headlight wouldn't turn on. I had to start the car to get that side headlight to turn back on normally. Somehow the capacitor popping tripped something in the wiring that cleared itself. Guess I'll try putting the wiring on backwards tonight to see if it works! Thanks for the help guys!

That's wierd, link works for me. Try this one: http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DDM-HID-Kit-Slim-Ballast-35W-or-55W I didn't try plugging it in reverse. Now that I'm reading up on it, it appears that was probably the problem (since one of the capacitors popped). For those that have installed HID kits, did you have to plug in the oem harness backwords (so that it won't clip on)? Does the car have to be running or will the HID's work on just battery power?

So I got my headlights and bumper unbolted to make it easier to install the lights. Put them in according to the instructions, and nothing. Checked it with a voltmeter and get this: Good power coming from stock light harness, plug the harness into the capacitor error eliminators, and I get a fluctuating 0-9 volts coming out of the capacitor output. Plug the capacity error eliminators into the ballast and have no volts at all coming out of the ballast. I don't get it. I installed exactly like the directions said. This is the order they said to install: Factory Wiring -> Adaptors (if needed) -> Capacitor Error Eliminator -> HID Harness -> Ballast -> Bulb. This is how I installed it: Factory wiring -> Capacitor Error Eliminator -> Ballast -> Bulb. I even tried removing the Capacitor from the setup and didn't get any voltage coming out of the Ballast. What am I doing wrong here? I checked with just turning the lights on and starting the car with the lights running. Does the car have to be running to have the HID's light up, or do they work fine running just off of battery power? Should the capacitor be fluctuating voltage like that? The instructions said to make sure you don't install with non-reverse wiring or they'll pop; I just installed them however the plug clipped on. What's weird is when I was taking voltage measurements on just the capacitor installed on factory wiring with lights turned on, it was fluctuating like that then popped and leaked fluid out. Are you not supposed to hook a multimeter up to the capacitors? Or does that mean I had the wiring reversed (meaning I would have to somehow hook the stock plug on backwords)? So I guess I need to order new capacitor error eliminators. This is what I ordered, DDM 35 watt 5000k HID's. No extra wiring harnesses, just the capacitor error code eliminators. Was I supposed to order some adapter harness or thicker gauge wiring? http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DDM-HID-Kit-Slim-Ballast-35W-or-55W Here's a picture of how I have my wiring running (I can't attach a picture for some reason, lame).

Can you guys find any pictures of the 2016 DJ SRT? I've tried googling but can't find any more pictures of the awesome looking concept. Looks sick!

That's freaking sick (the 2016 SRT concept). Trying to google it I can't find anymore pictures of it. I would trade my 2012 in for that bad boy in a heartbeat! Although it'll probably run $40k or so!

Awesome, thanks for the help!

How many cans of plastidip did it take to do the grill/bumper/mirrors? Did you have to prime or clearcoat it or anything? Or just the plastidip color?

Doesn't look nearly as boss as the F L E X does.

I think for now I'll just try out the cheap callahan kit and see how long it lasts. Gauranteed ANYTHING will be better than the stock brakes. I don't do much city driving, so if the stock brakes can last to 60k miles, then I'd be more than happy to get 60k out of the new ones. Just as long as there is no more damn shaking from warped rotors!!

I just put one of those sticky non-slip mats on top of the center dash (above the radio). It sits on top of that and never moves off the sticky mat. $1 fix .

Yeah I was aware of the advanced auto options. Just looked and it would still be cheaper to buy from Rockauto even after a big $50 coupon. They are extremely expensive at advanced auto. I've bought plenty of things there before with the coupon and sometimes it does work out to be cheaper, but not for DJ brakes it appears. So what brake rotor brands are people using? I'm seriously considering the Callahan kit since it's half the price. I've seen a guy on here that used them with good success...

The only thing I can tell right now from work, is I bought it in April 2012, I believe it had a build date of March 2012. I'm assuming that would put me int eh earlier/smaller rotor bracket right?

Can you give another update on the Callahan brakes? I'm due for brakes at 60k miles, and was thinking of getting this Callahan kit on amazon for $150 shipped. Seems like too good of a deal to be true! Is this the same kit you had? Callahan rotors and pads? Any problems with them in the last 6 months you've had them? Thanks man! http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E1SNKB8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1JWY71SHQ82FV&coliid=I3KY2HBU7K363H

Or what about this Callahan set. All 4 corners for only $147 shipped! Has really good reviews. Do you think that kit is too good to be true? Killer price for a whole setup. I've never used Callahan parts before. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E1SNKB8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1JWY71SHQ82FV&coliid=I3KY2HBU7K363H

So I took the DJ up to Death Valley last weekend, and the brakes are finally shot after those huge/steep mountain passes. They are warped crazy bad, the whole car shakes anytime you apply brakes above 50mph. I've dealt with the crappy stock brakes for over 2 years, so time for an upgrade. I don't want to upgrade calipers or anything, just get some nice new pads/rotors for all 4 corners. I've use wagner thermoquiets in the past with great success. So I will probably get those pads. On rockauto.com, they have two different rear ceramic thermoqueit pads...which one is the correct one? They list different "Brake Code" numbers for each. The fronts are just one type, so easy choice there. And they have $30 rebate for front/rear sets right now. WAGNER Part # QC1327 ThermoQuiet Installation Hardware Included (Rebate/Promotion Available!) Front; Optional Ceramic WAGNER Part # QC1596 ThermoQuiet (Rebate/Promotion Available!) Rear; OE Ceramic; w/Brake Code BRE WAGNER Part # QC1326 {#PD1326} ThermoQuiet Installation Hardware Included (Rebate/Promotion Available!) Rear; OE Ceramic; w/Brake Code BR3; w/Brake Code BRF And finally, what's a good brake rotor brand to buy? I'm starting all fresh. Do you think I should bleed the brakes when I'm all done? Or change out the fluid?

I'll buy your set off you if you want to get a different setup!!

That is a big rip, considering you can just plastidip your stock wheels for less than $100...or even go get them powder coated for a few hundred. They do look nice though...

Oh man I would have been PISSED getting hit in my brand new vehicle. My DJ doesn't have any power steering noise. The only complaint on the forum is in extreme cold weather, the DJ power steering will squeel for the first couple of seconds after a cold engine start; other than that no noise.

Seems like you had a lot of problems for a semi-expensive HID kit. I've heard nothing but great reviews about DDM tuning HID kits...and they're about half the price. Why not just go with DDM?

That's crazy, price must have gone up. I ordered them about 9 months ago or so. They were about $180 or so each, but had a $100 or $125 visa giftcard cashback. They have those giftcards quite often, just have to wait for the right deal.