onecrazyfoo4u

I got the YK580's in 235/55/r19 for $550 shipped from discount tire last year. I think the 235 series are still cheaper (and look better being a little wider) than the stock 225 series.

Yeah I figured that; I was just wondering if it would be benificial to splurge on a synthetic ATF+4 fluid instead of regular?

Yeah I will probably visit the dealer about the TSB and see if they can load the software again. I think you meant to say change your fluid at 64k miles if used for police, taxi, fleet, towing, etc. Or change at 120k normally...correct? That's what I believe my manual said. I drive in 110+ degree hot desert weather regularly. Do you think that would justify an early transmission fluid flush? Other than that I've only towed once, and obviously not a police, taxi, fleet vehicle.

I had this problem since day 1...and clunky shifts when accelerating moderately. Had the TSB done about a year ago where they reprogram the transmission software and it took care of the problem for about 6-9 months. But now it's back to the original problem. I wonder if the TSB re-program degrades over time? Would it be worthwhile to try to get the TSB done again to re-program it again? Also wondering if doing a transmission flush with some better fluid would help out? I figure I'm getting kind of close to needing to change out the fluid anyway (I think the manual says 80k miles for transmission flush?)...I'm at 60k miles now.

I have the chrome clad wheel covers too...almost 60k miles on them. Mine are still in perfect condition. They get washed every month or so with auto soap and wheel scrubber brush. Nothing else besides that. Although my sunny california location probably helps . Only seen snow in this vehicle for probably 2 weeks since I've owned it.

If you're buying an external wiring kit (like I did), then you don't need to take it to the dealer or flash it or anything. Just hook up the wiring kit, bolt on the hitch and you're good to go. After you get a reciever and ball of course...

The only option I know of is to use the tow hook under the car...but that would rub the bottom of the bumper. You can always put a cloth or towel inbetween the tow strap and bumper/paint so it doesn't rub.

Yeah I already replaced the rest of the interior lights and it made a nice difference. Just the map lights that I can't change out. Can't believe dodge was too cheap to put LED's everywhere but the cargo area.

Wow that is horrible gas mileage...I would be pissed if I got that bad. But I drive about 30k miles a year, so it's a much bigger deal for me. On roadtrips with 100% highway, I usually get 26-27 mpg. When I'm mixed with 30% city or so, it goes down to 22-23 mpg. If you want more bass, you'll have to add a sub/amplifier. The stock sub just sucks a big one. I'm thinking about getting an all inclusive unit for ease of installation (and I can remove it easily when I carry cargo). It wouldn't be huge bass, but I imagine a big improvement. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Basslink-200-Watt-10-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B000063TJY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1399922615&sr=8-6&keywords=amplified+subwoofer I would also love to see a powered rear lift gate and powered front passenger seat. The rest of it I'm pleased with.

I wish it was that easy to upgrade the 2012 DJ map lights. The stock ones on my vehicle are already LED, but too dim of an LED for my tastes. I looked at them to see what bulb type they were so I could replace them. Turns out they're some wierd integrated panel...looks like I'd have to solder in a new set of bulbs if I wanted to upgrade.

Same as redtomatoman for me. Had it replaced probably 20-30k miles ago and haven't had a hiccup since then. My vehicle had a slightly rough idle (that was the only symptom I could tell) and the check engine light for cylinder missfire. Mine was in the shop for 2.5 days. Search on the forum, there's a TSB number to cover the common repair. Just get it done and keep the vehicle!

I've shipped wheels in the past. Plan on about $25-30 per wheel just for US shipping. Then a box and bubble wrap for each wheel adds a couple bucks. I'd say it can easily be done for $150 total with shipping and packaging.

I went with the Yoko yk580 in 235/55/r19 about a year ago. Absolutely loved them since day one. 15k miles later and there doesn't appear to be any wear on them hardly at all. They are a huge improvement over the stock Kuhmo's. I could never get my steering wheel shaking to stop with the Kuhmo's. After the first balance with the Yoko's problem was gone. They were a killer deal too, about $550 total from Discount Tire after a promo and gift card cash back thing they had going on.

I got a 12 pack of the oem mopar filters on ebay for ridiculously cheap awhile ago. Worked out to about $3 a piece. Order them online and save some cash!

How do you like the Ft Worth area? I was just out there a couple of weeks ago and absolutely loved the area! Super green and lush everywhere we went. Is it green like that year round?

Where did you order them and for how much? The putco website doesn't sell them. 30W for the fog lights is super impressive. I was going to order 5W ones cause that was the best I could find.

It wasn't that often, but when driving into a headwind or up slight inclines it would downshift all the time. I just used the manual shift to avoid it most of the time and to get better mileage. It was annoying how often it would downshift when not necessarily needed.

My air vents whistle sometimes. Only does it on the face vents or face/foot split. And it goes away when I turn recirculate on. And it whistles louder the higher you turn the vent speed up. Not sure what that would be.

Thanks a lot for the info...gives me hope on getting a popup camper again. I may try renting one for a weekend first to see how we like it and how it pulls before splurging on the purchase. Does anyone have mpg results from pulling a popup trailer?

Yeah, it could have been overloaded on the tongue weight. They only way to properly secure the piano (on rolling wheels) was to put probably 70% of the weight up front, or 500lbs or so I'm guessing. I didn't have any other option with that giant piano and being able to secure it properly. Hopefully I didn't hurt anything on the DJ! It was the big enclosed trailer. Maybe a little popup camper with a lower profile would get better mileage then...and the weight would be distributed properly.

Cheapest option is HID's. Many people on here have had great results with the stock headlight reflectors and HID's...they do a pretty decent cutoff. Obviously not as good a custom projector retrofit...but now your talking $50 for HID's vs $400+ for projector HID retrofit. Silverstars are a joke, they cost the same as HID's and literally only last 6 months or so before popping. And they barely improve light output compared to stock bulbs. I've tried silverstars on two previous cars and they sucked big time for both of them.

Just took a trip back home from Idaho to California driving the DJ. Just recently installed the Curt class III hitch and wiring kit so this was my first time towing anything. The trailer itself was 900lb dry. I put a 800lb piano in it and a couple hundred other pounds...total was probably right at 2000lb. I towed it all 1000 miles going about 70mph average. Averaged about 19mpg the whole way. Was hoping for better considering I get 28mpg on this same trip with about 600lb of people and cargo in the DJ. Does 19mpg seem reasonable to 100% highway driving at 70mph pulling 2000lbs? My impressions were it was a much bumpier ride than I had expected. Not sure if it was due to the crappy uhaul trailer, or if it's because I have a DJ crew without the towing package. I could easily feel every bump in the road and feel the hinging movement of the trailer hookup. I was getting bumped around pretty good. Is that what you should expect when towing in the DJ? Overall I was hoping for better mileage and a better ride. But at least it got the job done and got the bohemith of a piano to my home! Do you all experience similar results when towing? I was wanted to get a little pop up camper trailer. But I'm re-considering after this experience. Unless a popup trailer gets better mileage and isn't as bumpy of a ride.

It's hard to help without hearing the sound...can you post a video of it? My other commuter car just had the catalytic converter break apart internally...blocking the exhaust flow. It didn't sound like the typical exhaust rattle. One thing you can do is take a rubber mallet (so you don't dent the exhaust) and go bang on different sections of the exhaust to see if you can find the source.

Thanks for the pic man, I'm going to get some to match the HIDs. How is the light output on them? Better or worse than OEM bulb?

I was thinking of getting these exact same ones, mainly to color match HID's. Hopefully they're brighter than the stock fog lights. You'll have to let us know how they turn out...maybe some side by side pictures of oem bulbs vs these? My research for H16 bulbs didn't really show any options to get a brighter bulb that fit the stock housing (unless you went HID's in there).