onecrazyfoo4u

So for the hitch, does it matter if I get Class 2 or Class 3? They both are above the maximium tow weight for the DJ anyways. Besides that it looks like the only differences will be hitch size of 1 1/4" or 2" reciever. Does it matter which size you get here? Then I'll need a wiring kit (which it looks like they're all universal, not DJ specific). Just a 4-wire system right, since the trailer won't have any brakes? And you just tap in to the tailights of the DJ is all right? Then the actual ball and mount. Any preferences here? What's the most common ball size needed? Will I need to buy a couple of chains too? What about a brake controller? Is that only if your trailer has brakes? Anything I'm missing?

I have a 2012 DJ Crew FWD with the 3.6L automatic. I don't have the towing package or a hitch yet. Not sure what the towing package included on the DJ. Looking to get started towing mainly to tow a little popup camper around a couple times a year. And to pull a little trailer for hauling things occasionally. I'm aware of the 2500lb tow limit. But I don't know where to start. What else will I need besides a hitch? Are all hitches the same, or are some better than others? How much should I expect to spend on the hitch plus wiring and anything else needed? Thanks all!

My 19" Kumho's lasted just over 40,000 miles. If anything, you would think mine would wear out faster since I live in the desert where it's above 100deg F everyday for several months in the summer. You would think the hot asphalt would wear them a lot faster. Regardless, I was glad to get rid of them...never could get them balanced properly; they were always slighly wobbly.

Soooo, what's the status op? What happened???

This is exactly why I always do my own oil changes. 10 years ago I took my honda to a shop...they didn't put an o-ring on with the oil filter. Needless to say, all the oil drained out after I drove it a couple miles. I drove it very gently dry (no oil) for about 5 miles to the store to get a new filter/oil. It never had a problem many years after that. How far did you drive it? Did you drive it very gently? If it's a very small amount, IMO you should be fine. I would still save all paperwork, take pictures with a date stamp, save the oil you drained, confront the shop manager. See what they say. They should put you on some official record so that if anything happens in the future, the shop would be liable to pay. If they refuse to do anything, then you'll have to file a lawsuit. Please never use these cheap oil change shops again!!!

I had the exact same TSB 'fix' done. My first fillup went above Full...that was the last time it went above full (9 months later now). I'm always at 7/8 or just above that...and I even click it a couple times to top it off a little. Hopefully your 'fix' is better than mine was...

Man, looking good. How much does a set that big run you?

I can't believe all of this fuss over a little felt tube. I took mine out because I had noticed it had fallen off anyways when I was changing my air filter. If it was that crucial, you would think it would have had a better means of securing it in place. I don't know how you would ever suck water into the air box if the inlet is at the top of the bumper, 3-4 ft above ground. If you're driving in that deep of water, you would have bigger fish to fry anyways. To each their own though...

I got a new 2012 DJ crew with 3.6l, leather, 7 seats, rear HVAC, 4.3" touch, 19" rims, sunroof, etc for $25k out the door. Basically just missing the bigger touchscreen, B/U camera, Navy, and rear entertainment. Can't imagine that would cost over $10k more though.

I took mine out right after I bought it. I was told it was just for noise suppression. Haven't had an issue in 1.5 years and 48k miles.

Just remove that short felt tube...I did. I think its there to keep the noise down a bit.

Yeah, the firm brake is the norm. LIke you said, it does seem quite a bit worse when it's cold. You just have to push down hard to get it started. If all else fails, just use the remote start to get her started.

I may give it a shot and report back how it fits. I don't want stainless since that won't match anything else on the car. And I'm trying to avoid adding more black plastic to the exterior since there's enough of that already...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251394117191?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_5268wt_970 I know it comes from china so quality/fit may be questionable. Just wondering if anybody has tried one? It appears to be plastic with the silver color to match the front lower bumper piece. I was thinking about getting one to save $50 over the RPG brand ones since I already have a few knicks on the edge of my rear bumper.

Well I guess it all makes sense. I just haven't experienced it yet since the DJ hasn't seen below 0deg weather before. Glad that mine is working like it should be (even if it sucks). You would think just using a much larger heater core/fan/blower up front, and splitting between front/rear ducting would be much more efficient. You wouldn't need an entire secondary system or piping coolant to the back of the car. And it would heat up much faster since air would be blowing through ducting inside the car which is much warmer than ambient temps outside the car. But what do I know, I'm just an aerospace engineer . Thanks guys!

So the rear heater is hooked up to the same heater core as the front heater? It routes coolant ~10ft to the back of the car? I thought it was a totally indepent unit in the back...

Just got back from a trip to Idaho where it was 0deg or below every night. I live in sunny california, so the heater doesn't get used that much over here. In Idaho I noticed it would take a good 15 minutes of driving around before the rear would produce good heat (with full heat selected and upper vents only). I tried it set to Auto climate control and it was the same. Yet up front, I was getting good heat after just a couple minutes of driving around. Is this the norm? Why would it take so long to get good heat to the second and third rows?

Pop the hood and check to see if the washer line broke off the little squirters in the hood. Both of mine had broken and I had to super glue them back together.

My 2012 cap/manual say 5w-30...looks like they changed it mid-year. Mine was built in April 2012. Now that I'm at 45k miles, I wonder if I should switch over to 5w-20? Technically that would be going against my manual though...

There's about a dozen choices on amazon and rockauto. Obviously, use you're own judgement. I've never had fitment issues in the past. There's about a half dozen options. http://www.amazon.com/gp/part-finder/slide-show/2012/Dodge/Journey/ref=au_pf_cr_1?ie=UTF8&carId=003&partsNode=15727071 Rockauto has more choices and is cheaper. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,3015568,parttype,6192

You guys really need to be shopping online. You can get aftermarket paper filters for the DJ for about $10-12 shipped on amazon or rockauto.com. Same price for the interior A/C filters too. I've been shopping this way for over a decade. I VERY rarely buy parts at autozone or any other local store...online is the way to go to save big bucks. Just look for free shipping deals, coupons, etc. Even if you have to pay a few bucks for shipping, you're still not getting ripped a new Ahole at the counter parts store or dealer. I just recently got a K&N to save money on paper filters...loving it so far.

DDM tuning is another good source for HID kits. Good quality for really cheap. Don't get HID's for your high beams, it'll be worthless.

Just replace with good quality aftermarket rotors/pads. That's what I plan to do when mine wear out instead of dealing with the dealer/oem crap shenanagins. Save yourself the headache and do it yourself. Should only be about $400 for parts for good quality stuff for all 4 corners.

Just upgrade your interior lighting so it's all LED bulbs. We did that first thing when we got ours and it makes a huge difference. Super annoying how Dodge couldn't splurge the extra $10 to make everything inside LED. I wonder if there's any way to retrofit a power lift for the hatch? That would be nice to have too. Just give the transmission time to break in; it'll get better. At least ours did after probably 6 months of driving or so. Have you had the TSB done to reflash the transmission?