lytefall

Did some google-fu and found a procedure to check the wiring in the loom when everyone looks fine visually. Ended up getting some intermittent power to the actuator so looks like you were right. Time to start digging thanks for the help.

Thanks. I checked there because I had issues with that loom and the rear wiper before. Nothing obvious. But then again it wasn’t last time either. Was hoping I was missing something before I pulled the multimeter out and started chasing broken wires as it’s time consuming. Can anyone confirm that the rear hatch is on the same fuse and the other power locks? Also, the title autocorrected and won’t let me edit for some reason. Was meant to say “Rear Actuator”

Rear hatch actuator stopped working, but everything else was fine so I assumed I needed to replace the actuator only. Well that didn’t fix the issue. just thought I would check in for ideas before I start chasing the wires looking for a problem. I believe it’s in the same fuse as all the other locks from what I read, and the fuse is fine. 2012 RT Thanks

Awesome. Thanks guys.

Both rear doors groan and pop when I open them. Worse the colder it is. I was going to lube the hinges but the noise seems to be coming from the spring. Not sure lubricating a spring will change anything? Ideas other than replacement parts?

For some reason the locks began working again on their own after about 36hrs. I couldn't get to disconnecting the battery due to work and it was when I went out to pull the car in the garage that they all of a sudden started functioning normally. It's been 4 days and they still seem to be working fine.

Yes, I do

Both front doors won't open with passive entry. It was fine yesterday. Went to get in the DJ this morning and they won't work. I thought maybe FOB battery was dead, nope. Maybe interference from some electronics I had on me, nope. Lock button in handle works fine to lock the doors. FOB works fine, interior button fine. Passive entry on rear hatch works fine. Any ideas?

I will have a look at the glass tomorrow but I have had this DJ for almost 4 years, have never had a collision or glass replacement and changed the wiper blades once before this with no issues.

No go on the lubrication of the hinge and spring. It had no effect. Guess I will have to see what the dealer says.

I hear ya. Unfortunately I don't have much choice in the winter. I will hand wash it when it's cold out but there are some times that the wash brush is a necessary evi due to temps. There's only a few mechanical car washes in the city I live in and they are all well known for leaving damage behind. The wash brush is the lesser of the two evils.

The OEM blade I was referring to was purchased at the dealer. And I never use mechanical car washes. Closest I come, if it isn't by hand in my driveway is a wash bay where you pay and use the brush.

I will spray down the spring and hinge assembly. Good thought. I will let you know how it goes.

My rear wiper is losing contact with the window from the 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock position at the top 2-3" of the blade. This started after changing the wiper blade. I used a OEM blade from Chrysler but ended up switching to a shorter blade because the area that was being left uncleaned was just driving me nuts. The attached picture is with the shorter blade. As you can see it's still losing contact at the top position but not nearly as bad as the proper sized blade. I have checked the arm, spring, blade etc. and everything looks good. Any ideas before I ask the dealership?

I never even thought of the momentary drop in the reservoir. I will check that as soon as I get done work tonight. Thanks!