harrisjohn6

With a lockpick maybe

Sounds like a design flaw, I rarely use the AM/FM radio mostly my iPod for music so if it does happen to me I would not know about it until my iPod died on me.

I was browsing youtube and came across this, about 10 minutes in they mention the same problem about the radio not ouputting sound without a load.

Not sure what it looks like behind the stereo, I have not had time to look, I am going to this weekend if I can get access to a friends garage. I do know for certain they did not use the cars speaker wiring, they had to run wire from the amp to each speaker. Initially they used Stinger speed cable from the stock stereo to the 3Sixty.3 (High Level Input) and RCA's from the 3Sixty.3 to the 4 channel Rockford Amp. They used speed cable again and ran that back the stereo and tied into where the factory speakers connection was to go back to each speaker. The Journey stereo is a major fail. I can't wait until the tablet is the center of my install. I love my Journey just not happy about not being able to snatch out the stock stereo. When I drove off the lot my intention was to install an aftermarket. I should have done more research, I'm getting to where I want to be. Going with the active signal processor opened up to so many possibilities being able to stream BT Audio, and it has a TOS/Link input. I will rarely use the stock radio when I get the Nexus 7 installed, and working like I know it can.

Also I do not have any more info on the 2 ohm resistor. You should stop by Best Buy man.

I don't see why you couldn't split the RCA's that way. the 3Sixty.3 summed the signal it was receiving and sends it to all 4 channels on my amplifier. I have 4 more channels of output I can use which 2 will be for my subs when I get to that point. I went with a local shop called Car Teks. I would not hesitate to use Best Buy though, they were knowledgeable when I went their for information. Your speakers may be the cause of distortion I noticed a big increase in clarity when I changed out my stock speakers before I put them amp on them.

Yes, that is what the installers at Best Buy told me. As for frying your stereo I can't say. You installed after market LED's? There are CAN-Bus compatible LED headlights

I am using the storage bin down there by the cup holder to mount the uconnect screen. For the tablet I am initially going to stream bluetooth to my 3Sixty.3 processor. I am going to wire it so that it can charge. The holder will become a dock so to speak. When I get around to it I will use the slimport to get HDMI video and audio out of the tablet and from there use a device that will output to TOS/Link and send that to my processor. The PAC audio piece the installer used works unfortunately it only outputs to two channels, not sure if the installer was being cheap or if one that output all four channels truly would not work. I am going to give it a shot when I get the dash mod done. I would like to have the stereo handle fader/balance controls when use the radio. I also found out the stock head units distort at 29 so max un-distorted volume is 28 which sucks. I am happy with the sound and although my speakers are not what I will end up with I am impressed with the sound so far.

In other news, I have the bezel and the tablet holder I am going to mold into it. Here are the photos I expect to have the tablet mounted this weekend, and hopefully repainted the following weekend. I will post pics of the finished products. Radio bezel from eBay 25 bucks shipped Front of tablet holder Back of tablet holder

AWD is all wheel slide in the winter. Roads are terrible in the midwest.

They give you points to jump start it if you need to on top.

I agree on the battery, I have not done anything with my own oil yet, 3 oil changes less than 11,000 miles and 14 months of ownership. It's been really good to me and I am starting to put my touches on it.

I am fine losing all of that if the PAC unit will work. I can use the 3Sixty.3 for it. I stopped by Best Buy this morning to have them test my processor and the guy there told me that with the radios we have the radio needs to see a 2-4 ohm resistance load, he said a 50 watt 2 ohm resistor would do it and they were selling them for 15 bucks he was unsure if it needed to be 2 per channel and on all channels he was leaning toward on the front channels though

Nice rims and tires

Nice choice, I wish I had a connection. Were tires part of the deal if so you caught a great deal

We're dealing with snow now, lots of snow. I talked to my installer last night to express my disappointment he believes one of the PAC-Audio products will fix the problem and wants me to bring it back in. He is going to purchase the part to negate having to spend the money to fix their mess up with the error I was receiving. He said the will have to run new speaker wire which they're going to chew the labor cost on as well.

So the "Service Keyless System" message I was getting according to the deal the installer tapped into an ignition wire that was running to (or from) a module and it caused the voltage to drop and throw the error. They removed the installers work and actually said the work wasn't from a hack job but was just an older way of doing things. He said they needed to run it directly from the ignition switch to avoid the error. Shockingly the work I had done did not void the warranty according to the service guy.

Travis PAC-Audio makes an adapter research it, I have yet to find someone who has used it on the 2013 Uconnect 4.3 without BT/SAT/NAV so I contacted them yesterday. Waiting on a reply.

It was all factory wiring, the installer used stinger speed wire from the factory wiring to the 4 channel amp, and stinger wire from the radio to the signal processor. it made for an easier switch back to factory which turned out to be useful since this is what I had to do to get sound back. Now my car is at the dealer because I had an error message saying "Service Keyless System" and of course they are saying because of the attempted after market speakers that were installed. Which could be the case since it was the only change but it's a 125 dollar fix if the service peeps are to be believed It will set wiring back to factory behind the radio. I am taking my processor to be tested tomorrow so I will know if it was bad or not. If it turns out to be bad I will return to the installer after I RMA it if not I am going to do the install myself since all the wiring has been run. I am looking into a piece made by PAC-Audio that will give me low level output without tapping into the wires. I wish I had ran into that prior to going in for the mods. If I go the do it yourself route I will have photos and will document my trials and tribulations.

I am having a similar issue except I am using the Rockford 3Sixty.3 DSP, I have a 2013 Journey. I changed my speakers to Rockford Fosgate 100 amp 6X9's and there is an improvement but I really want to get my DSP and amp going. I also noticed the original speakers in my AVP were only 15 watts

It is indeed a lot of work and I have been having a terrible go at it. I wish there were more options for installers in my area. I do have a question for anyone that reads this and have installed an after market amp. I have the Rockford 3Sixty.3 processor and after the shop I went to installed it, I did not have any sound at all using the speaker signal from the head unit as high level input to my sound processor. My software did not even register a bleep, I only left the shop like that because I was told they were unable to install the software on their computers to tune it, and it could not be initialized until the inputs were selected. Which is true, but once they were it was still no sound being sent to the processor. Have anyone had issues getting sound from the Head Unit to either a Line Out Converter, Signal processor or amplifier?

Nice, thanks for sharing, how did you run the cable for the reverse cam?