JohnnyRevs

Hi Tammy, apologies, coming to this late so maybe you have this sorted by now? I had this problem on my Journey but it turned out to be just the copper shims that sit on the brake caliper. They allow the brake pad to easily move in an out and also keeps them under tension to stop them vibrating in place. I had the same symptoms in that it rattled around when driving at slower speeds but disappeared when braking and at higher speed - I suppose that the pressure of the brake piston under braking keeps them from rattling around so the noise disappears and at higher speeds, either I just couldn't hear them or perhaps the higher speeds somehow kept them in position? The shims are gently sprung to keep them in place but I guess mine became lose and popped out. They were only around €10 (prob $10 for you) for a couple of sets (i wanted a few spares). Hopefully, you got you problem sorted but please post back to let the rest of us know!

+1 on that - I'm inclined to agree with JRod - my Journey was squeaking as described above and I'd learned to ignore it over time. However, I replaced the control arm recently due to a worn bush and hey presto, squeaking gone. As he says, I think some lubricant would have solved it, so I wouldn't go and fit a new arm just for that.

Apologies for late reply - didn't see your post till now (oops). No, this particular engine variation not affected by recall. Funnily enough, my 2011 Audi was affected though the solution was just a simple software update. Took 30 mins, and no parts needed. IMO, a lot of fuss being made over that, especially by lawyers, who no doubt will turn out to be the main beneficiaries. 'Not condoning their corporate deception but when you consider no one was killed, especially when other problems HAVE killed people, I think the problem is somewhat overstated. Lets face it, its in owner's interests to make a hullaballoo as they stand to get a nice compensation payout. I guess if we all could get money for something relatively minor, we'd be fools not to! But, that's my own opinion. Best regards

In reply to my own topic, problem is now solved. I worked it out as the car failed to start whilst I was out at a store. I managed to get it going after getting a push and trying to engage drive & starter - this must have freed it up as it then started OK on the key. I drove it straight home and set about replacing the starter. Of course, I did check the ground wire and relay just to make sure, but after replacing the starter, all is good. Net cost for the started was about €280 incl' sales taxes. One thing to note is that there are 2 red wires that attach to the main terminal on the solenoid (most have just one, apparently). I read somewhere that one may go off to the alternator, though I didn't check this out (not important). Access is quite good from underneath the vehicle, especially if raised off the ground, LOL !

My 2010 SXT Diesel Turbo with manual transmission is again experiencing irregular no-start. Key goes in ignition but entire car appears dead. R03 recall was completed last year and this did seem to improve things - problem went away for a while. Then I had a battery issue so fitted a new battery. Since then, this problem has returned. So, in reading through various posts, I've identified several possible causes:- 1. WIN module - this was replaced last year so unlikely to be cause 2. Starter solenoid relay / starter 3. Ground wire to starter. So, I'll start with checking no 3 and if that seems ok, I guess then no 2. According to the manual, the correct start procedure is to: a. Turn ignition to ON b. Allow the "Wait to Start" indicator to go out c. Place the shift lever in Neutral d. Depress the clutch e. Do not press accelerator pedal f. turn key to Start This implies that there is a sensor to detect shift position & another one to check clutch is depressed. Has anyone experienced problems with these ? Is there anything else I can check on ? I'm wary of taking to the dealer as they tend to replace parts first and ask questions later, all at the customer's expense! TIA!

Sorry for late post on this - I had a faulty actuator on one of the rear doors - I tried a few things prior to replacing the actuator to first satisfy myself that the actuator was at fault but once I had determined (to the best of my ability) that the actuator was the problem, I just went ahead and replaced it. Cost for the part was only €105 here in Ireland (reasonable, I thought) and I replaced it myself in around 2hrs, taking it slow and methodical. It was relatively straightforward and easy to do, if a bit fiddly at times. Point is, the actuators do fail! Anyhow, my problem is fixed and has been working for around a month now with no problems.

OK, you've convinced me - I'll get some new ones - Thanks to all for the advice.

I had a different problem on my car. Problem was that my brake caliper was missing 1 of the copper shims that allow the pads to slide smoothly and keep them tight in the caliper - this caused more of a rattle than a scraping noise but was only noticeable over rough surfaces. Rather than replace the entire caliper, I managed to modify one from an old Toyota caliper. Probably not your problem but can't hurt to check.

Just received 2 new balljoint & wishbones for the front suspension from my local dealer, however, I forgot to order the 2 new snap-rings to hold them in place. Can I get away with re-using the old ones, or should I head back to the dealer and get the snap-rings ? They don't keep them in stock so its likely a day or 2's wait. I was planning the swap this weekend but may put it off depending on what people here think?? http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/products/SNAP-RING-FRT-KNUCKLE-BJNT-BRA/4431865/68002949AA.html

You're correct in that they're now re-badged as Fiat Freemont in Europe. Fiat, in their infinite wisdom, decided to discontinue sales in the UK & Ireland (where I live) back in 2011, but AFAIK, they're still on sale in mainland Europe. In my view, its one of the better cars out there for family use, esp if you prefer the style of an SUV instead of an MPV - it is larger internally than a Santa Fe and also has very reasonable running costs when equipped with the VW sourced 2.0 Ltr Diesel engine. This gives good torque and won't see you embarrassed at traffic lights. Quality is an area that did need improvement - not as well put together as a VW but also no where near as expensive. The new cars may have addressed this but as they don't sell them here any longer, I have no way of knowing. Reliability is pretty good if you keep up with the correct maintenance schedule. The car has never broken down in the 165,000 Km that it has covered. Only issues I've had is with the Tyre Sealant pump when I had a puncture (get a spare wheel if you can), and a current issue with the central locking not operating on one door. Other than that, zip. I've kept our car for 6 years now since new, and will do so for a few more, as there are still very few cars out there that fit our needs as well as this one. Good luck with your new car!

Never thought of checking the connectors but that's not a bad idea. I'll give it a go. I was looking at the part nos, and comparing with those listed on the Parts website:- http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=674059&ukey_make=1062&ukey_model=15496&modelYear=2010&ukey_category=20305 but the numbers listed there don't match any numbers on the part itself (item #3 in the drawing). Markings on my part are:- RH2 >PP-TX20< & 39734 & 962571. Can anyone advise on part-numbers? Thanks again.

No, but where else could it have come from ? It does make me suspicious that this mechanism was tampered with before being placed in the car. Its a PIA to remove and I had to break the tabs (no other way to remove it) that secure it to the inner door card so it must have been installed like that. I'm tempted to just order a replacement but I could end up with a pile of parts (if I did that for every problem)! I'd sooner be sure of the problem before ordering replacements. Thanks for the input

R/H/S Rear door locking via the central locking does not work any more on my 2010 Dodge Journey SXT. This is a right-hand drive car, so the door is directly behind the driver's door (in case there is a difference). The problem was intermittent at first but now seems to be permanent. Affects this one door only. This is not a case of mechanical interference as I am able to manually pull up / down the button inside the car. The door operates as normal aside from this central locking issue. I removed the door card to try and check for any obvious issues. After much labor, I managed to remove the actuator from inside the door body and disconnect the electric feed. Funny thing is, when I reconnected the feed, the lock started operating again via the key. My initial hurrahs were short-lived however, as the problem returned the next day. Thinking that this may be a Body Control Module issue that may have reset when I disconnected the actuator, I disconnected the main battery via the Negative jump terminal under the hood to see whether the lock would start working again. Sure the car went dead so I assume the supply to the BCM was cut, however, when I reconnected the battery (after 30 mins), the door lock problem was still there. Has anyone else experienced this issue, or know a better way of isolating the cause? Incidentally, when I removed the actuator from the car, I found a wrap of insulation tape. I've had this car from new so it must have come from the factory that way. I could just buy a new actuator and try my luck but I'm not yet convinced that's the problem, even though (to me) that looks the most likely cause. I'd appreciate any help. Pic of door actuator disconnected from electrical supply:-

Bit late to this party but I had same issue with my 2010 Journey. Fixed it by disconnecting the battery which appears to have reset the module, similar to removing fuse. I was fearing the worst - i.e. changing the module / harness / switch unit but in the end the fix was simple (and cheap!). I'm glad I got to the battery too - seems like there's no petroleum jelly on the terminals (from the factory) and there was some corrosion present, not to mention the amount of mud in there. I cleaned it all out and put some jelly on and its now good for winter !

Thanks for the suggestion, McGusto . Took a quick look around and with navigation, units are selling in excess of $500, typically $750+ on eBay. Are there any alternative sites selling such equipment ? Thanks, John

Hi guys. Coming to this late, however, I'm in the same boat as George, I'd say with the same spec car. Likewise, when I press the phone button, I'm also prompted by a message stating that the vehicle is not equipped... So, I've been trying to enquire about retrofitting & I came across this link on eBay for a Uconnect module c/w mic' & harnesses etc:- http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Dodge-Chrysler-UConnect-Phone-Hands-Free-Wireless-/320771037964 Do any of you [experienced] guys think this look like a good option for a retrofit ? Many thanks for any advice you can offer, John