Journeyman425

Here is the maintenance schedule for a 2011 Journey with a 3.6 sold in the North American market. Miles and Kilometers are both represented. As mentioned in the above posts - most of what they are recommending is not needed at your mileage. Please see Service Bulletin following this maintenance schedule about fluid flushes. And induction services are nothing more than a way to separate your cash from your wallet. If I can find the bulletin from Chrysler which discourages dealerships from doing so, I'll post it. Feel free to print this out and bring it with you if you wish. 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Maintenance Schedules/Description MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES - NAFTAThe Scheduled Maintenance services listed in this manual must be done at the times or mileages specified to protect your vehicle warranty and ensure the best vehicle performance and reliability. More frequent maintenance may be needed for vehicles in severe operating conditions, such as dusty areas and very short trip driving. Inspection and service should also be done anytime a malfunction is suspected. The oil change indicator system will remind you that it is time to take your vehicle in for scheduled maintenance. On Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC) equipped vehicles “Oil Change Required” will be displayed in the EVIC and a single chime will sound, indicating that an oil change is necessary. On Non-EVIC equipped vehicles “Change Oil” will flash in the instrument cluster odometer and a single chime will sound, indicating that an oil change is necessary. Based on engine operation conditions the oil change indicator message will illuminate, this means that service is required for your vehicle. Have your vehicle serviced as soon as possible, within the next 500 miles (805 km). NOTE: The oil change indicator message will not monitor the time since the last oil change. Change your vehicles oil if it has been 6 months since your last oil change even if the oil change indicator message is NOT illuminated. Change your engine oil more often if you drive your vehicle off-road for an extended period of time. Under no circumstances should oil change intervals exceed 8,000 miles (13 000 km) or six months, whichever comes first. OIL CHANGE INDICATOR - RESETYour vehicle is equipped with an engine oil change indicator system. The “Oil Change Required” message will flash in the EVIC display for approximately 10 seconds after a single chime has sounded to indicate the next scheduled oil change interval. The engine oil change indicator system is duty cycle based, which means the engine oil change interval may fluctuate dependent upon your personal driving style. Unless reset, this message will continue to display each time you turn the ignition switch to the ON/RUN position. To turn off the message temporarily, press and release the Menu button. To reset the oil change indicator system (after performing the scheduled maintenance) perform the following procedure: Turn the ignition switch to the “ON” position (Do not start the engine). Fully depress the accelerator pedal slowly three times within 10 seconds. Turn the ignition switch to the “LOCK” position. NOTE: If the indicator message illuminates when you start the vehicle, the oil change indicator system did not reset. If necessary repeat this procedure. At Each Stop for Fuel Check the engine oil level about five minutes after a fully warmed engine is shut off. Checking the oil level while the vehicle is on level ground will improve the accuracy of the oil level reading. Add oil only when the level is at or below the ADD or MIN mark. Check the windshield washer solvent and add if required. Once a Month Check tire pressure and look for unusual wear or damage. Inspect the battery and clean and tighten the terminals as required. Check the fluid levels of coolant reservoir, brake master cylinder, and transmission and add as needed. Check all lights and other electrical items for correct operation. At Each Oil Change Change the engine oil filter. Inspect the brake hoses and lines. CAUTION: Failure to perform the required maintenance items may result in damage to the vehicle. Proper operation of four-wheel drive vehicles depends on tires of equal size, type and circumference on each wheel. Any difference in tire size can cause damage to the transfer case. Tire rotation schedule should be followed to balance tire wear. Required Maintenance IntervalsRefer to the Maintenance Schedules on the following pages for the required maintenance intervals. Perform Maintenance Every Maintenance Items (Where time and mileage are listed, follow the interval that occurs first.) Miles Kilometers Months 8000 13000 6 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter. Rotate the tires, rotate at the first sign of irregular wear, even if it occurs before 8,000 miles (13 000 km). 16000 26000 12 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter. Rotate the tires, rotate at the first sign of irregular wear, even if it occurs before 16,000 miles (26 000 km). If using your vehicle for any of the following: Dusty or off-road conditions. Inspect the engine air cleaner filter; replace if necessary. Replace the air conditioning filter. Inspect the brake linings, replace if necessary. Inspect exhaust system. Perform the first inspection at 16,000 miles (26 000 km) or 12 months. Inspect the front suspension, tie rod ends and boot seals for cracks or leaks and all parts for damage, wear, improper looseness or end play; replace if necessary. 24000 39000 18 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter. Rotate the tires, rotate at the first sign of irregular wear, even if it occurs before 24,000 miles (39 000 km). Inspect the CV joints. Inspect exhaust system. 32000 52000 24 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter. Rotate the tires, rotate at the first sign of irregular wear, even if it occurs before 32,000 miles (52 000 km). Replace the spark plugs (2.4L Engine). Replace the engine air cleaner filter. Replace the air conditioning filter. Inspect the brake linings, replace if necessary. Inspect the front suspension, tie rod ends and boot seals for cracks or leaks and all parts for damage, wear, improper looseness or end play; replace if necessary. 40000 65000 30 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter. Rotate the tires, rotate at the first sign of irregular wear, even if it occurs before 40,000 miles (65 000 km). 48000 78000 36 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter. Rotate the tires, rotate at the first sign of irregular wear, even if it occurs before 48,000 miles (78 000 km). If using your vehicle for any of the following: Dusty or off-road conditions. Inspect the engine air cleaner filter; replace if necessary. Replace the air conditioning filter. Inspect the brake linings, replace if necessary. Inspect the CV joints. Inspect exhaust system. Inspect the front suspension, tie rod ends and boot seals for cracks or leaks and all parts for damage, wear, improper looseness or end play; replace if necessary. 56000 91000 42 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter. Rotate the tires, rotate at the first sign of irregular wear, even if it occurs before 56,000 miles (91 000 km). 64000 104000 48 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter. Rotate the tires, rotate at the first sign of irregular wear, even if it occurs before 64,000 miles (104 000 km). Replace the spark plugs (2.4L Engine). Replace the engine air cleaner filter. Replace the air conditioning filter. Inspect the brake linings; replace if necessary. Change the automatic transmission fluid and filter(s) if using your vehicle for any of the following: police, taxi, fleet, or frequent trailer towing. Inspect the front suspension, tie rod ends and boot seals for cracks or leaks and all parts for damage, wear, improper looseness or end play; replace if necessary. 72000 117000 54 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter. Rotate the tires, rotate at the first sign of irregular wear, even if it occurs before 72,000 miles (117 000 km). Inspect the CV joints. Inspect exhaust system. 80000 130000 60 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter. Rotate the tires, rotate at the first sign of irregular wear, even if it occurs before 80,000 miles (130 000 km). If using your vehicle for any of the following: Dusty or off-road conditions. Inspect the engine air cleaner filter; replace if necessary. Replace the air conditioning filter. Flush and replace the engine coolant if not done at 104,000 miles (169 000 km). Inspect the brake linings, replace if necessary. Inspect the front suspension, tie rod ends and boot seals for cracks or leaks and all parts for damage, wear, improper looseness or end play; replace if necessary. 88000 143000 66 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter. Rotate the tires, rotate at the first sign of irregular wear, even if it occurs before 88,000 miles (143 000 km). 96000 156000 72 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter. Rotate the tires, rotate at the first sign of irregular wear, even if it occurs before 96,000 miles (156 000 km). Replace the spark plugs (2.4L Engine). Replace the spark plugs (3.6L Engine). Inspect and replace PCV Valve if necessary.† Replace the engine air cleaner filter. Replace the air conditioning filter. Inspect the brake linings, replace if necessary. Inspect the CV joints. Inspect exhaust system. Inspect the front suspension, tie rod ends and boot seals for cracks or leaks and all parts for damage, wear, improper looseness or end play; replace if necessary. 104000 169000 78 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter. Rotate the tires, rotate at the first sign of irregular wear, even if it occurs before 104,000 miles (169 000 km). Flush and replace the engine coolant if not done at 60 months. 112000 182000 84 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter. Rotate the tires, rotate at the first sign of irregular wear, even if it occurs before 112,000 miles (182 000 km). If using your vehicle for any of the following: Dusty or off-road conditions. Inspect the engine air cleaner filter; replace if necessary. Replace the air conditioning filter. Inspect the brake linings, replace if necessary. Inspect the front suspension, tie rod ends and boot seals for cracks or leaks and all parts for damage, wear, improper looseness or end play; replace if necessary. 120000 195000 90 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter. Rotate the tires, rotate at the first sign of irregular wear, even if it occurs before 120,000 miles (195 000 km). Inspect the CV joints. Inspect exhaust system. Change the automatic transmission fluid and filter(s). Replace the accessory drive belt(s). 128000 208000 96 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter. Rotate the tires, rotate at the first sign of irregular wear, even if it occurs before 128,000 miles (208 000 km). Replace the spark plugs (2.4L Engine). Replace the engine air cleaner filter. Replace the air conditioning filter. Inspect the brake linings, replace if necessary. Inspect the front suspension, tie rod ends and boot seals for cracks or leaks and all parts for damage, wear, improper looseness or end play; replace if necessary. 136000 221000 102 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter. Rotate the tires, rotate at the first sign of irregular wear, even if it occurs before 136,000 miles (221 000 km). 144000 234000 108 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter. Rotate the tires, rotate at the first sign of irregular wear, even if it occurs before 144,000 miles (234 000 km). If using your vehicle for any of the following: Dusty or off-road conditions. Inspect the engine air cleaner filter; replace if necessary. Replace the air conditioning filter. Inspect the brake linings, replace if necessary. Inspect the CV joints. Inspect exhaust system. Inspect the front suspension, tie rod ends and boot seals for cracks or leaks and all parts for damage, wear, improper looseness or end play; replace if necessary. 152000 247000 114 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter. Rotate the tires, rotate at the first sign of irregular wear, even if it occurs before 152,000 miles (247 000 km). † This maintenance is recommended by the manufacturer to the owner, but is not required to maintain emissions warranty. WARNING: SUBJECT: Fluid Flushing Requirements MODELS: 2011 - 2012 (D2) Ram Truck (3500 Pick Up) 2011 - 2012 (DD) Ram Truck (3500 Chassis Cab) 2011 - 2012 (DJ) Ram Truck (2500 Pick Up) 2011 - 2012 (DP) Ram Truck (4500 / 5500 Chassis Cab) 2011 - 2012 (DS) Ram Truck (1500) 2012 (FF) Fiat 500 2011 - 2012 (JC) Journey 2011 - 2012 (JK) Wrangler 2011 - 2012 (JS) Avenger/200 2011 - 2012 (KK) Liberty 2011 (KA) Nitro 2011 - 2012 (LC) Challenger 2011 - 2012 (LD) Charger 2011 - 2012 (LX) 300 2011 - 2012 (MK) Compass/Patriot 2011 (ND) Dakota 2013 (PF) Dart 2011 - 2012 (PM) Caliber 2011 - 2012 (RT) Town & Country/Grand Caravan 2011 - 2012 (WD) Durango 2011 - 2012 (WK) Grand Cherokee DISCUSSION: Chrysler Group vehicle fluid systems do NOT require regular flushing. These systems include: engine oil, transmission oil, axle lube, brake fluid, power steering fluid, and refrigerant. The only exceptions to this requirement are published in the vehicle maintenance schedules, e.g. engine coolant. NUMBER: 26-004-12 GROUP: Miscellaneous DATE: June 06, 2012 Exceptions to this recommendation include only those instances where a malfunction has occurred and/or the system has become compromised, contaminated or overheated beyond the normal operating range. Chrysler Group does NOT recommend aftermarket chemicals to flush the engine, transmission, brake or steering systems. Chemicals contained in these products can damage the system elastomeric components, and contaminate the component fluid, leading to loss of system/component durability and service life. When necessary, only the original approved system fluid should be used to flush these components using teamPSE® approved equipment. If the engine coolant contains a considerable amount of sediment, clean and flush with Mopar Cooling System Flush, p/n 04856977, or equivalent. Follow with a thorough rinsing to remove all deposits and chemicals. Refill with a minimum of a 50% mixture of the specified coolant and distilled water. POLICY: Information Only 26-004-12 -2-

We don't have a whole lot of snow where I live, and the terrain is flat. We get the occasional wallop and when we do, we pretty much stay home for a few hours until the roads are plowed. That's why we skipped AWD in the first place - never had an issue with starting, stopping or steering with FWD and the Michelins which came on the 300M. Good to hear that the Kumho's performed well in Canadian snow conditions.

Steering shaking at highway speeds is most likely due to a wheel/tire out of balance. This condition happens on all vehicles from time to time, regardless of the make. The transmission issues are most likely due to its control software which can be updated by your dealer to improve its performance. The clunk in the rear is not a common complaint and I'd be interested to know what its cause is. I own three Chrysler products. None of them have ever left me on the side of the road, ever - including my 13 year old, 285,000 mile 300M which runs perfectly to this day. Have faith.

Mine was in the bodyshop for only five days and it made me nuts.

...and it rained today for the first time in 12 days... Guess what I'm going to do...again!

Washed it...again!!

Congratulations! There will be no regrets. As you drive this car and it becomes part of your family, you will love it even more. Rolly and I are the leading members of the Copper Pearl Fan Club!

Check the wattage draw of your fog machine. The outlet is rated for 150 watts maximum.

Maverick - it can't hurt to inquire about software updates to the TCM when you bring the car in for service. How many miles are on it? Remember, the transmission has adaptives which learn your style of driving and alter the shift points accordingly. These adaptives can sometimes take 1500 miles or more to fully set, which will alter shift quality as well. Mine did indeed smooth out a little as I got closer to 2000 miles. I have 6900 miles on it now. If you want, you can post the last eight digits of your VIN and your mileage, and I can check if there are any updates for you. Mine is fully up-to-date with the latest software release, and for now that is as smooth as it will get until the next enhancements are released, if at all. We'll see. The car comes with conventional 5W-20 oil as the factory fill. Synthetics are not required. I changed the oil at 4200 miles with regular oil, but am seriously considering switching to synthetic oil at the next service. The more I read about synthetic oil, the more I am being sold on its superior lubricating properties and its resistance to breakdown and its capacity to absorb contaminants. The 3.6 is a highly precise and sophisticated powerplant, and I want to keep it running perfectly for a long time. My 300M has always had regular oil changes every 3500 miles or less, on conventional oil, and still runs normally with over 284,000 miles. No smoke, and consumption is about a quart every 2000 miles. It's kind of a quandary for me but I think while it's new I'm going to change over to synthetic. What are your plans? We'll probably keep this car like our 300M and drive it until it dies. If you don't think you'll keep it for more than a few years or less than 100K miles, then don't spend the extra $$ on synthetics. If your in it for the long term like us, then it may be a wise choice.

Maverick - my only real complaint about the car is, in fact, the way it shifts. It upshifts very quickly and a bit too abruptly for my tastes. It's done that way for fuel economy, but at the expense of driveability, in my opinon. The 3.6 liter minivans have an "ECON" button on the dash which alters the shift program. In the ECON mode, they shift very much like our Journeys do - quickly getting into higher gears, keeping the revs down, and shifting rather abruptly. When switched out of ECON, the engine is allowed to rev higher and the transmission holds the lower gear longer. The result is a much smoother upshift. I don't know what the fuel economy penalty is but frankly, it's worth the trade. I wish the Journey was equipped with this dual mode feature and I am surprised that is has been omitted. If I use Autostick and allow the revs to build a couple of hundred RPM higher than what the TCM is programmed for, the transmission shifts absolutely seamlessly, and I can only tell a gearchange by the engine sound or by watching the tach. I would use Autostick more often but I find the position of the shift lever relative to the center console a bit awkward. I use Autostick all the time in my 300M because I like it and the ergonomics of the shifter are much more user-friendly in this regard. Ditto for the hill climbing scenario, too. Sixth gear is extremely tall - the engine turns about 1600 RPM at 70 MPH. Even though about 90% of the engine's torque is available at this RPM, it needs horsepower to accelerate up the hills and to overcome aero drag, and it's not making enough HP at those RPM to overcome it without a downshift. The cruise control attests to this. It loses at least a good 3 MPH or so before the converter unlocks or a downshift to 5th occurs to maintain the set speed on a hill. Again, my 300M, which is a 4 speed 42LE transmission, will maintain a much more accurate setting since the engine is turning about 2200 RPM at the same speeds. It's not nearly as busy, but the fuel economy is lower, too. I don't hear any whining sound when I start mine, but it does make a moaning sound which I hear outside and inside after a cold start and the engine is running in that 1200 RPM cold start range. I've grown accustomed to it since I work around the 3.6 all day and it is common. I'll pay closer attention to it next time I start it - I think you and I may be hearing two different things. I'm not sure if what you are hearing is normal or not. We've got three new Journeys due in to my store over the next month or so. I'll give a listen to them as well and let you know what I hear.

Each time I fill the fuel tank, I reset the average mpg to zero and start fresh for that tankful. I should manually calculate it to check its accuracy but I have not. I checked it manually a few times on my 300M and each time the math was within .1 of the display.

Yes - the A/C compressor will kick on to reduce humidity in the HVAC system which can cause fogging of the windows, especially if a defrost mode is operating. So, even if you are not specifically calling for air conditioning, the compressor will still cycle as needed.

Camber and caster adjustments are possible but should not be needed in most cases. Toe is adjustable. From the service manual: FRONT CAMBER AND CASTER NOTE: There are service struts available that have elongated bottom holes for front camber adjustment. Front camber and caster settings on this vehicle are determined at the time the vehicle is designed, by the location of the vehicle's suspension components. This is referred to as Net Build. The result is no required adjustment of camber and caster after the vehicle is built or when servicing the suspension components. Thus, when performing a wheel alignment, caster and camber are not normally considered adjustable angles but some adjustment can be made. Camber and caster should be checked to ensure they meet vehicle specifications. (Refer to 02 - Front Suspension/Wheel Alignment - Specifications) If individual front camber or caster is found not to meet alignment specifications, each can be adjusted by shifting the front crossmember or by using an available service adjustment bolt package. If an adjustment bolt package installation is necessary, inspect the suspension components for any signs of damage or bending first. CAUTION: Do not attempt to adjust the vehicle's wheel alignment by heating or bending any of the suspension components. TOE Center the steering wheel and lock it in place using a steering wheel clamp. NOTE: When setting toe, make sure to set rear toe to the preferred specifications before setting front toe to the preferred specifications Remove the steering wheel clamp. Remove the alignment equipment. Road test the vehicle to verify the steering wheel is straight and the vehicle does not pull or wander. REAR TOE NOTE: Perform the following at each rear wheel as necessary. While holding the cam bolt head (4) stationary, loosen the toe link mounting cam bolt nut (3). Rotate the cam bolt head (4) left or right until the rear wheel toe for that rear wheel is set to the preferred specification. (Refer to 02 - Front Suspension/Wheel Alignment - Specifications) While holding the cam bolt head (4) stationary, tighten the toe link mounting cam bolt nut (3) to 100 N·m (74 ft. lbs.). FRONT TOE NOTE: Perform the following at each front wheel as necessary. CAUTION: Do not twist the inner tie rod-to-steering gear boot (bellows) while turning the inner tie rod during front toe adjustment. It may be necessary to remove the clamp where the boot meets the inner tie rod. Loosen the tie rod adjusting jam nut (1). Grasp the inner tie rod (3) and rotate it one way or the other until the front wheel toe is set to the preferred specification. (Refer to 02 - Front Suspension/Wheel Alignment - Specifications) Tighten the tie rod adjusting jam nut to of 75 N·m (55 ft. lbs.). Make sure the inner tie rod-to-steering gear boot is not twisted. If removed, reinstall the clamp where the boot meets the inner tie rod. These are excerpts from the manual but should give you an idea of the procedure. If you don't have irregular tire wear or pulling, let it be.

The rear A/C evaporator is located behind the passenger side rear wheel and drains in the same general area as the exhaust. This is why many of you are seeing more water on the right side vs. left, or none at all on the left and only on the right.

What a cool driveway you will have - SRT and a Journey - I have Dodge envy! Enjoy, and congrats in advance!

Ask them to check if this applies to your Journey - or give me the last eight digits of your VIN and your mileage and I'll check it for you. Based on what I'm reading, this may not be related but it's worth checking into. Some noises travel throug the body or frame from their origination point and can trick a technician into looking beyond their source. This bulletin is supplied as technical information only and is not an authorization for repair. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, or otherwise, without written permission of Chrysler Group LLC. SUBJECT: Noise From Front Of Vehicle Over Bumps Or When Turning OVERVIEW: This bulletin involves replacing the upper front strut bearing to correct the noise. MODELS: 2012-2013 (JC) Journey NOTE: This bulletin applies to vehicles built between December 01, 2011 (MDH 1201XX) and December 05, 2012 (MDH 1205XX). SYMPTOM/CONDITION: The customer may experience a noise from the front upper strut mount going over bumps or when turning. DIAGNOSIS: NOTE: The front strut should be diagnosed with Chassis Ears placed at the upper strut mount to diagnose a noisy strut bearing or to eliminate the good strut bearings as the cause of the noise. 1. Drive the vehicle to confirm the noise is in the upper mount area of the strut. 2. Is there noise coming from the left or right upper strut mount? a. Yes >>> Perform the repair procedure on the noisy upper strut bearing. b. No >>> This bulletin does not apply, further diagnosis required. NOTE: Do not replace the shock unless the problem is not fixed by the strut bearing replacement. PARTS REQUIRED: Qty. Part No. Description 2 (AR) 05171093AC Bearing - Front Suspension Strut REPAIR PROCEDURE: 1. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist. Refer to the detailed service procedures available in DealerCONNECT> TechCONNECT under: Service Info> 04- Vehicle Quick Reference> Hoisting> Standard Procedure> Hoisting. NUMBER: 02-001-13 GROUP: Front Suspension DATE: March 06, 2013 2. Replace the upper strut bearing. Refer to the detailed service procedures available in DealerCONNECT> TechCONNECT under: Service Info> 02- Front Suspension> STRUT, Suspension, Assembly> Disassembly/Assembly. NOTE: Assemble the upper front mount strut bracket ( Fig. 1) to the upper front strut bearing ( Fig. 2) by aligning the stud heads on the strut bracket to the 3 notches on the strut bearing. Fig. 1 Front upper Strut Bracket 1 - Stud Heads 02-001-13 -2- Fig. 2 Front Upper Strut Bearing 1 - Notches 3. Return vehicle to the customer. POLICY: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty. TIME ALLOWANCE: Labor Operation No: Description Amount 02-05-39-90 Mount/Bearing, Front Strut - Inspect (2-Skilled) 0.2 Hrs. 02-05-39-91 Mount/Bearing, Front Strut - Inspect And Replace One Side (2-Skilled) 1.0 Hrs. 02-05-39-92 Mount/Bearing, Front Strut - Inspect And Replace Both Sides (2- Skilled) 1.5 Hrs. FAILURE CODE: ZZ Service Action -3- 02-001-13

Yes, I have heard the same about the outgassing of plastics - but man it smells great!

Love that sound!

That sounds very familiar indeed! Took delivery at end of May, hit second week in July. Made one payment and had not even changed the oil yet! And yes, our insurance companies are still duking it out because the kid that hit me lied to his insurance company after telling the cop that he did, in fact, hit us and we weren't moving. DTSGUY - we feel your pain!

2013 and 2014 are structurally identical. Welcome to the forum and to DJ ownership - Journey = Love. You cam add a backup camera, too: http://www.mopar.com/part/82212553?s=353095&i=1991380&b=dodge

That is not insignificant. Every time you get in your new car and breathe in that wonderful new car smell, you are reminded that you do indeed have a new car, accompanied by that short wave of pride and joy that goes along with it. My kids love the new car smell. There is still hint of it in our three month old Journey but it's beginning to fade. To have it robbed from you really is a shame. You are preaching to a very empathic choir here!

Copper Pearl on fire!