Journeyman425

. While it was sitting mid week i noticed a good glaze of rust coating the rotors. That condition is known as "trace corrosion" and it is very common. After I wash my 2000 300M and the car sits overnight, the rotors have an orange tinge to them the next morning and the first couple of brake applications produce a scraping sound until it is swept off. Trace corrosion itself won't cause so much as a chatter as it will a scraping sound. The car I took off the road - a 1999 300M - sat for two months at my shop before i used it again last week while my new Journey was in the bodyshop (see my thread "Hit Last Weekend). The brakes had a distinctive rotating rumble sound even without the brakes applied due to rust on the rotors which built up while it sat. Once I ran the car for a couple of days, it went away. I was surprised at how rusty they became just sitting in that relatively short time. We did have a lot of rain and very high humidity here during that period of non-use which would be similar to the week yours sat in that salty environment.

I have seen cases where brake rotors warp while sitting on the lot. We just did front rotors today on a new Durango that was delivered this past Friday - came back for a brake vibration. Schedule an appointment with your selling dealer to have this resolved. The braking should be smooth.

This is from the dealer order page. When you are ordering a car from Chrysler and you click the "details" link about the color choice, this comes up. I'm assuming that the Copper color reflects and refracts to a higher degree than Black simply because it is a brighter color and not because of the wax being used. Interesting read: Copper Pearl Coat (PLB) Pearl Coat is a pigmented mineral coating that creates special brilliance and shine by reflecting and refracting sunlight, adding a dramatic sparkle to the vehicle finish. I copied and pasted this from DealerConnect which also included a color sample, but an error message came up saying I wasn't allowed to use the link on this board, yet it allowed the post once I cut the color sample out. Oh well!

I have a bit of obsession with keeping this car clean. No sooner did I get it home than I waxed it top to bottom with Ardex Miami Shine (except for the newly painted bumper) which is a liquefied carnuba paste wax. Three hours later it proceeded to rain on it just enough to get it all spotted, then today the kids had a baseball game 50 miles away and it rained some more. After she got it home I re-cleaned it using Ardex Hydrogloss spray detailer. Just for kicks I washed and detailed my trusty 300M as well. The trouble with Copper Pearl is it shows everything! I have also discovered that It is one of those colors that truly looks gorgeous when it is spotlessly clean and free of dust. As soon as it begins to get dirty, it loses its magic which makes me obsess the way I do. I know, I have issues...

All fixed up and good as new!

Does your dealership have another, similarly equipped 2013 Journey in stock? If so, ask to test-drive the new car with the service manager and see if you can duplicate the sound in the new one. If you cannot duplicate it in the new car, then go right to yours and drive the same route as you did in the new car and duplicate your complaint to the service manager. That will rule out whether or not the sound is normal (I'm sure that it is not, based on what you are saying, but A to B comparisons always help bolster your case) Once that is demonstrated, then they will continue with diagnosis until it is resolved.

Journey is in the bodyshop as we speak. Front fascia is off and being painted. Waiting for the fascia trim to come in and some miscellaneous hardware. Rather than replace the whole front fascia, it can be repaired and the paint blended into the fascia only. If we replace the whole fascia, then the paint has to be blended into the front fenders to make it match 100%. Very tough to do with Copper Pearl. The fasica itself can be repaired as new, just the dark gray trim where the front plate would go has to be replaced. Hope to have it back at the end of the week. Put a dealer plate on my '99 300M and am using the old car as a loaner.

You can disable the interior lights altogether by rotating the rheostat on the dash all the way down. This way, the lights don't wake up if you open a door. From the owner's manual: Dimmer Control The dimmer control is part of the headlight switch and is located on the left side of the instrument panel. Rotating th dimmer control upward with the parking lights or headlights on will increase the brightness of the instrument panel lights, door map pockets and cupholders (if equipped). Dome Light Position Rotate the left dimmer control completely upward to the second detent to turn on the interior lights. The interior lights will remain on when the dimmer control is in this position. Interior Light Defeat (OFF) Rotate the dimmer control to the extreme bottom off position. The interior lights will remain off when the doors are open. Parade Mode (Daytime Brightness Feature) Rotate the dimmer control upward to the first detent. This feature brightens all text displays such as the odometer, EVIC (if equipped), and radio when the parking lights or headlights are on. Dimmer Controls 226 UNDERSTANDING THE FEATURES OF YOUR VEHICLE

From the owner's manual: ROOF LUGGAGE RACK — IF EQUIPPED The roof rack cross rails and side rails are designed to carry cargo weight. The load must not exceed 150 lbs (68 kg), and it should be distributed uniformly over the cross rails. In addition, the roof rack does not increase the total load carrying capacity of the vehicle. Be sure the total load of cargo inside the vehicle plus that on the roof rack does not exceed the maximum vehicle load capacity.

Welcome!

The sub is 8"

Your Journey is rated for 2500 lbs. How far are you going with it? If it is mostly short distance local towing, you will be fine with it. Aerodynamics will not be a major factor since the height of a bass boat is lower than the vehicle height. The weight is not a problem for the powertrain to manage, but transmission and engine temps have to be monitored. If you are towing longer distances in hilly terrain then I would advise against it.

Well, at least it was not a hit and run. We were in the car when it got hit. The kid never saw us, so he says. I'm not entirely sure how you can miss the front end of a Journey in the rearview mirror of a VW Golf. Nevertheless, I have a police report and his insurance info. My insurance company will subrogate against his to recover my deductible at the least. If it had been a hit and run, I'd have gone stark raving mad!

Webslave is correct. All that has to be done is for the dealer to add sales code LMK to your vehicle's options list (easily done) and then reconfigure the vehicle so that the new sales code is picked up (also easily done). See below: STAR Case Contact the STAR Center for assistance if no solution is found Chrysler Group LLC Version 1 Case Number: S1108000159 Release Date: 04/02/2013 Symptom/Vehicle Issue: Daytime Running Lamps Inoperative Diagnosis: Owners may complain that the daytime running lamps are inoperative. Repair Procedure: Daytime running lamps will not operate. No DTC’s in any modules. Select the radio settings menu and select lighting, select Daytime Running Lamps (enable or disable feature). If the radio option is not available, review the vehicle configuration to make sure the vehicle is equipped with the daytime running lamps sales code. Adding the sales code LMK and performing a vehicle restoration will add the feature. Verification: Test the operation to complete.

No need for additives to clean the valves. There's enough additives in most gasoline to control carbon buildup. The issue with the valves has to do with insufficient cooling in the valve seat area which causes the valve to burn just enough to prevent it from fully seating, which in turn causes the misfire. Unless the check engine light is flashing while driving, then it will not harm the catalytic converter to drive it. All of the compression leak down tests that we've done to determine a faulty head came in at 40% or less, which has not been enough to cause a dead miss, but will produce the rough idle / performance lag issues described above.

Me too. I already polished out the white paint from the car that hit us. Looks 10X better already. Snapped the grille back into the facia retainers. Called my insurance, saw the bodyshop yesterday and have a facia on order already. As soon as the body shop can take me, it goes in for repair. Might be a couple of weeks. I am so bummed out about this. I know it's no big deal but you guys know, in the short time I've been on this forum, how much I love this car. I've only made one payment on it and already it's no longer new. I'll feel better when it's all fixed and back to new condition again but in the meantime it kills me to see it damaged. I should just get over it and move on, right? Just had to vent a little to an audience who can really understand!

Took a road trip to Hershey, PA and got nailed by a 17 year old in a VW in the HersheyPark lot:

I had a similar issue this weekend on a road trip. I noticed that the gauge did not move very quickly for the first 3/4 of useage. Was averaging close to 25 MPG for most of the trip. The last 1/4 tank seemed to go very quickly, then the light came on. Showed DTE of 50 miles. Within 10 miles it changed to "Low Fuel" Needle would barely move off the "E" mark when engine started. Filled with fuel but only took a little over 15 gallons (I have FWD with 20.5 gal. capacity). After fill up the gauge did not go over the full mark - stayed about a half-needle-width below the F. Currently there are no updates or TSB's for the issue but I'll keep you all posted if something comes up. I will scan the car for codes at work when I have time and will report my findings if I come across anything.

I thought it was a cool feature - lets you vent the interior before you get in on those blast-furnace days - especially on cars like mine with the black interior. I was disappointed when I realized it was not on my car.

That feature was eliminated. I checked on DealerConnect because I thought for sure that mine would have it since the older ones do. 2011 may have been the last year.

Fantastic deal! Pictures next!

Well? Are you a proud new Blacktop owner?

That may have been the case in the past, but my 2013 Crew FWD has the same brakes as an AWD Crew or R/T. Only the suspension calibration is changed from FWD to AWD - the AWD setups get Performance Suspension vs. Touring for the FWD models. soontobejourneyowner - if you can hold out for a few more weeks, you may consider going to a 2014 model. There will be additional items standard on the SXT for 2014 without a significant price increase, if any. I had second thoughts about the payments too, but once I got the car and started making them I stopped thinking about it.

That is precisely what Chrysler was hoping for when they discontinued the Pacifica, as well as trying to appeal to the CUV market which somehow eluded the Pacifica. I always liked the Pacifica, and really liked it in 2007 when it was upgraded to the 4.0 liter V6 and six-speed with dual exhaust. The Journey is a better vehicle overall, though. Certainly more responsive when equipped with the 3.6 and definitely more nimble-handling. Please post details and pictures when you can! Best of luck with it; you will love the car if you don't already.

Umm...yeah... I hate my Journey so much that I washed it in the rain...then as soon as the rain stopped, I toweled it off and waxed it, vacuumed it, and polished the wheels. I wanted to make it look as good as possible for the scrap yard. P.P.S I LOVE MY JOURNEY!