jkeaton

Thanks!! All I can say is Hawaii is not on my bucket list. I prefer the Caribbean: Cancun, Cozumel, etc. Have a safe trip home!

probably find one cheaper on eBay if it does need to be replaced.

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Can we lock this thread? Opinions abound. Everyone has their own. It's pointless to argue about who thinks what sounds better.

What is the actual code? Pull the plug and inspect. Mileage? Engine size? Last tune up?

Welcome to the forum. We can help you out with your problems. Please start a separate thread in the correct section if you have a specific problem.

love to see reviews like these.....

Moved to the correct section. The forum help and suggestions section in which you posted in is for reporting forum issues, not vehicle specific technical issues. The code is a big deal unless you have verified your oil level. There have been a few instances of a faulty oil pressure switch causing this code. Get yourself a code reader so you don't have to wait to bring it to the dealer to have the code read, or take it by a parts store. It's most likely a faulty sensor, but at least make sure you have the oil at the proper level before driving. Is the dealer going to fix I? Did you ask them if it was a big deal to drive it for 4 days with the code on? It is also helpful to the group if you state the year, engine and mileage of the vehicle.

They only work if you have other complementary mods. Getting more air into the engine does nothing if it has no where else to go. An engine is nothing more than an air pump. Yes, race cars use them but they also have head work and exhaust modifications to make use of more air. On a stock engine with a stock exhaust, nope. You are just buying into the hype. Now, if you were to install a true cold air intake (which gets the intake out of the engine compartment), bigger throttle body, bigger intake and exhaust valves, bigger pistons and a free flowing exhaust, yes, it would compliment that engine nicely. On a stock engine these days, the computer will negate any added air going into the engine. Believe what you want. It's all personal choice.

TSB for this. Strut bushings as stated. Do some searching. There are existing threads on the subject.

Thanks for joining our forum to share your experience. Hope you have better luck with whatever you buy next.

Nope. Not me. If it's all good now, motor on.

Yes, been discussed in depth already here >>http://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/8217-new-safety-recall-recieved-in-mail-yesterday/?hl=recall Please use the search function first before asking questions.

Welcome. Yes, do some searching around. Plenty of info here in both topics. Post any technical questions you may have in the appropriate section.

It would be nice but not practical for most.

Another fuel mileage thread or lock this one down? The title has nothing to do with the content. My OCD is acting up.

They do not offer one for the Dodge Journey. The 3.6 yes. But only for Charger, Challenger, Durango, Ram, 300 and Jeeps. Not the Journey.http://www.rippmods.com/products/

Welcome to the forum. You should have started your own topic instead of resurrecting a 4 year old thread..lol

Most all cars depreciate like a rock. But you are correct. I never buy new. Our 2013 SXT with less than 9000 miles on it we got for less than $19k.

That is not a recommended service this early if at all. Depending on year and mileage. Dealers always try to upsell non recommended services. Check your owners manual. If it is not listed as a recommended service by the manufacturer then it will not void your warranty if you say no. Dealers are out to make money off unsuspecting people. Do not fall for it. Educate yourself on what the manufacturer requires as far as maintenance goes per the owners manual.

Too old for tropical drinks??

I never saw a difference. Hard or soft cover. Maybe if I drive in a straight line for 500 miles at a constant speed, but who's got time for that. Lol. We shall agree to disagree. Again, that's like the cold air intake/IAT resister trick. It's all a matter of the butt Dyno and none of those are ever calibrated the same. At any rate, I'm not going to stick a bunch of satellite antenna looking things all over the back of my car hoping they will pay for themselves in 500,000 miles. Lol

Negative ghost rider. Myth busters busted that myth. Plus my own real world driving. Does not help one bit.

Good job. Always check fuses first. Saves a bunch of heartache waiting for someone to suggest it. Question is, why did it blow? It's likely to blow again, so start doing some troubleshooting. Pull the bulbs and check for corrosion in the terminals. Check for pinched wires. If the bulbs are original, I'd go ahead and replace them. I've had bulbs before that looked fine and worked fine but were old and used excessive current, resulting in blown fuses.