jkeaton

I can't help it. Thats where I'm from and where all my family lives.

2013, numerous long distance trips to Chicago, New York, Florida, Virginia. Just passed the 30k mile mark. No chips or anything on my headlights. Now, the bumper and hood are another story......

Exactly ^^. Change it again and document.

Anyone installed these?

They upgraded the brakes sometime in 2012. Yours must have been before. Good idea replacing with quality aftermarket parts then. Most people keep going back to the dealer, who puts in the same crappy parts, only to fail prematurely again. And they repeat the cycle over and over. Lol. The popping could be anything really. I still recommend pulling a wheel and doing a visual inspection of everything.. Did you buy from a dealer and did you get any kind of warranty?

I would start with a brake inspection before just going out and buying all new parts.

Someone loves their memes.

Thank you Wes for the accronym explanation. Fancy words for a differential and a transfer case....lol

Ah. Have not reached that point yet. Lol

I didnt tape off anything. Just put some on a rag and wiped the windows off.

Paint thinner works just as well. I had overspray on my Sebring. I tried the razor blade, tried clay bar, tried rubbing compound...nothing got rid of it completely. Finally I got some paint thinner and wiped it off.

CUV!

SWMBO?? Welcome to the forum. I find just about every feature of my DJ useful.

Welcome to the forum! If you want advice about how to fix your car, remember that you are the eyes and ears of your helpers. So, you need to be a good witness. Here are some do’s and don’ts Do record the year, transmission type, mileage and engine size of your vehicle, and any pertinent history of repairs. Do provide as many details as you can about the problem. Don’t ask, “does anybody know how to fix a Dodge?” don’t ask, “how do you fix brakes?” And most certainly don't put a vague 2 or 3 word sentence and expect to get any sort of meaningful responses. Vague questions/statements like that are a red flag that the person has no clue about auto repair, so don’t be surprised if you get simple and/or sarcastic answers back. If you show some evidence of your skill set, then those offering advice can better adjust the explanation to your knowledge level. And, there is less risk of walking somebody down a repair pathway that puts them in danger of causing more problems. Don’t just say “ my car won’t start”. You need to be a better observer. Here’s an example. I have a 2010 automatic transmission 3.5L with 50,000 miles that won’t start today. It’s never had any serious repair and it’s had no major maintenance before. Last night while I was driving the engine suddenly quit, so I coasted to a stop on the road, a block from my house. Dash lights and headlights stayed on until I turned the key off. That night I couldn’t restart it, so I walked home. This morning I stepped into the truck and I turned the key to on. Just after I turn the key to on, I hear the fuel pump motor come on for a couple of seconds. The lights on the dash come on, the headlights work normally. The fuel gauge reads 3/4 full. When I turn the key to start I hear the starter motor engage, and I hear and feel the crankshaft spin. I can see the serpentine belt moving when I try to start the vehicle. But it spins the motor at a faster than normal speed, with an unusually smooth whirring sound and no evidence of ignition. The above history, presented in the kind of smooth and logical way that a mechanic would normally approach the problem, rings familiar bells and makes it much easier for others to help. Unless you’re sure, don’t start the description with your diagnosis. For example, don’t start with the question “ how do I replace a thermostat” Rather, give the problem, the evidence, and only then discuss why you think you need a new thermostat. You might find that the white smoke out your exhaust that you didn’t mention is also related to the overheating radiator. Do provide as many clues as you can. for example if the problem only happens in damp or cold weather, mention it. Do consider making a video of the problem. Posting video on Youtube is free, easy, and fun. A short video of your problem can make a huge difference as to how much you’ll get out of your effort. And you’ll likely meet a lot of interesting friends along the way. Finally, one more thing. Remember to keep your thread active, right to the point that the problem is solved and answered. Everybody who helps out on this forum wants to see how things ended up. If you ask a question on this forum, you owe those who try to help the courtesy of telling them what the solution was, even if you eventually had it fixed by a pro. Good Luck!

Just dont hook anything to the wires.

What's a fortin evo all?

No apps that I'm aware of. You get what you get. Welcome to the forum.

Welcome!!

Had that happen to our 09 as well. It can be the actuator you refer to (cheap-ish) or it could be the intake runner itself which requires replacing the intake manifold. Luckily ours was the actuator only. Dealer repaired under extended warranty.

Sorry, not familiar with "RDA" and "PTU". If this has to do with differentials, I'm sure there is a drain plug and a fill plug just like any other differential/transfer case, manual transmission, etc. Remove the drain plug and fill plug, drain it, reinstall the drain plug and fill it back up till it runs out the fill hole.

Welcome aboard.

Read post #10. Also it is in your owners manual.

I refuse to pay premium price for a name.

Alternator on our 09 had to be replaced at about 70000 miles. It was working but making a terrible whining noise. I was going to replace it myself, but even a re manufactured one was close to $400. Since we had an extended warranty, had the dealer do it. Our deductible was $100 so it was cheaper that way.

Sound system sounds great just the way it is in ours. I dont need license plate rattling bass.