Lobitz68

Bushings being worn aren't going to kill anyone, it is just a little noisier...

Springs aren't all that expensive really...

I know this wasn't directed at me, but I put components in the front doors and placed the tweeters in the sail panel. Took about 15 minutes per door included drilling holes... I went with components that didn't require a lot of power as to avoid having to run an amp. They sound great. I just placed 6.5"s in the back, that was even quicker... I left the stock tweeters, but the brightness of the components tweeters drowns them out and you can't hear the garbage that they emit.

Not lately! Too damn warm. (did I really just say that?) Ha! My hockey is all at the same place... Old Timers need consistency! It's the damn kid. Gotta drive that little brat all over the damn place!

They don't market it as for the 2015, but nothing has changed. Should fit fine, it is just springs...

Then do it yourself... If it is the motor it should be fairly simple to diagnose and repair.

The rest of the world is just a bunch of damn conformists!! :poke: I have to do everything in both standard and metric at work, so it's not exactly Greek to me, but the measurement of liters/100 kilometers is odd... I would be more interested in how many kilometers I get out of a liter than I would be in how many liters it takes to make it 100 km... Just seems backwards. Perhaps because the number would be so small?

I like Imperial beers... does that count? Mmmm...high alcohol content...

Off topic slightly, but I wouldn't buy a DJ with the 2.4... I paid $21k US for my SXT AWD w/ the 3.6.

I'm just north of 23k miles on my 2014... Damn hockey practice/games require a lot of driving.

Mounted to the rear of the resonator?? So you have a cherry bomb hanging out the back end on both sides??? Doesn't sound very aesthetically pleasing...

Make up your damn mind and stick to your guns!!! Even if you don't like it...

Ugh...

While I'm sure it helps quite a bit, the stock speakers are still very muddy and missing the crisp clean highs and powerful mids... Even a minor upgrade to the stock speakers (along with the sub you added) should make this a MUCH better stereo system.

Should be able to lower it 1.5" or so with the H&R springs... Maybe some running boards? I'd probably just tell my mom to find another ride, but clearly you and I do not think the same...Ha!

Yeah, so like I said... 30mpg. He wanted a conversion to US gallons, not to Imperial.

Dude... Post it once... No need to flood the forum with THE EXACT SAME POST over and over... It's not going to get you an answer any quicker and is terribly annoying.

Ha! 3 posts about the exact same thing?? C'mon man...

You probably could, but you are outside of the rated capacity of your DJ. Assuming you have the 3.6 and the tow prep package, your vehicle is rated for 2500lbs.

Niteshade...

And whoop his ass!

The non-Crossroad tail lights are chrome inside vs being black. Makes a difference painting the inside black, but keeps the lenses red which is the law.

Not getting a whole bunch of useful advice here, so I will post what my plan is and maybe someone will have something to say about that... I plan on taping off the vehicle around the rust and sanding the area down enough to remove the rust and feather the edge to the good paint. I will then primer, paint and clearcoat the repair area. I assume I will also need to wetsand it to smooth out the repair, after which I will need to buff the repair to return the gloss... Am I missing anything?

They aren't tinted, they are just painted black inside to provide a darker appearance... I tinted mine using Niteshades. Process is simple and provides a shiny appearance just like the paint... Remove all 5 tail lights and both reflectors in lower bumper. clean well with a good degreaser. dish soap will work if you don't have an actual degreaser, I grabbed a can from the auto parts store. Completely dry everything. Spray 2 very light coats of Niteshades onto each light/reflector. These coats should be light, or you will get runs. Spray heavier coats until you reach the darkness you desire. These coats can be heavy, but don't go overboard or you will get runs. (TIP: be sure to put each coat on in a different direction to ensure even coverage) Let dry completely and degrease again. Spray 2 heavy coats of clear coat on each light/reflector. Wet sand each light/reflector with a 2000 grit sand paper until the entire surface is dull when wiped dry. Polish lights/reflectors out to a mirror finish. Apply wax. Reinstall on vehicle. Admire your work and laugh at the clowns with the dull finish on their tail lights because they were lazy... Be sure to follow instructions on the can to get the best finish. You can wet sand between the Niteshades and clear coat if you like, but it shouldn't be necessary if applied correctly. I taped off my reverse lights before applying the Nitshades and removed the tape prior to clear coat so that the surface was smoother when finished.

My hardware is working as advertised.