Lobitz68

Mine look yellow compared to the HID's...Ha!

Modern vehicles do not require the "break in" changes of the past. Change it when the light comes on and don't think twice about it. I'm not sure what others are talking about, but my light comes on at a different interval every time. There is definitely some algorithm or something that the vehicle uses to determine changes... I bought the lifetime bumper to bumper warranty on mine at purchase. Spreading the payment out only equated to a few extra bucks per month and with all of the electronics in a modern vehicle it seemed like a no-brainer. Enjoy your new vehicle.

Only possible through the dealership. It is just a software update, so the labor fee should be no more than 1 hour..

Mine runs off of a USB cable... pretty sure they are do these days.

Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep/RAM has used the TIPM to control everything in their vehicles for more than a decade, it's definitely not a new concept in the automotive world. Also, to call the TIPM a fuse box is a bit of a stretch, there are fuses in it, but the name suggests, every vehicle function is integrated into it. It sucks yours is toasted, but a vehicle with 100,000 miles on it has an increased chance of repairs being required. And, while the TIPM is an expensive part, a lawsuit seems a bit frivolous and over the top to me. Shit breaks, it's part of owning a car...

Ha! It's like an 8 page tirade about someone's personal battle to have a button that requires only one push. Don't know how you could've missed it!

http://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/5890-siriusxm-navtraffic-canada/

this should get you started... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VVeMLEXJSz0#t=15

Nice! It's always nice to have a good dealer experience... I recall a post on here somewhere where the poster called Sirius USA to have it activated and then it worked in Canada... May have to search a little bit, but it wasn't too long ago.

Unfortunately, they usually charge you "book time" regardless of what the actual labor time is... If the book says an hour and it takes 5 minutes, guess what you pay for...an hour.

Need more info about what year your DJ is... The surround should pop out. There are videos on you tube showing the process... Not sure that you'll be able to disassemble it once removed from the dash though.

I believe that the dealer needs to add a service code. The fact that the dealer you went to didn't even try and said it "probably won't work" is a strong signal to take your DJ to a different dealer to get it done. The guy you spoke to is an idiot and the rest of the dealership likely follows suit.

My initial thought is the TIPM. This little bastard runs everything. Hopefully it is something else though, as they typically go for somewhere around $1,000 US.

Very touching, my eyes swelled as I read your posts. If it is any consolation, I can say for sure that you had something very special that some will never have. Cherish your memories and never let go, even if you do move on. I am sorry for your loss and am impressed by your will. Thank you for sharing.

eBay has them... look for "war stripes".

Looks good. This is on my list...

While I can agree that the stock headlight bowls on the DJ do not scatter as bad as some vehicles, there is still a ton of scatter. If you park facing a wall you will see a cutoff line, but the wall above the cutoff line will be well lit. Do the same thing with projectors and the wall above the line will be dark. There are only a few vehicles that have bowls designed for HID headlights, and those vehicles come with HID headlights. There is no way to effectively place an HID bulb in a halogen headlight bowl without scatter due to the fact that the "hot spot" on a halogen bulb is located in a different spot of the bulb (relative to the headlight bowl) than an HID bulb. The bowls are designed with that dimension in mind.

Sounds like a fun project. Did you post pics (can't always see pics from work, but will check on my phone later)? If not, please do...

If you park facing a wall and look at the light output from inside of the vehicle, the cutoff would be the line where the light cuts off at the top and transitions to dark... Does that make more sense?

Why would someone read their manual and perform the procedure that is there which clearly details how to start the car if this should happen? That doesn't even make sense...

When I saw the thread with the link to these I thought the highs were Infinity Q45 projectors, not LEDs. If you post a pic of the lowbeam projector cutoff I would be interested in seeing the output from the LED highs as well.

Simply because they produce a lot of glare for oncoming traffic. It is not "safe" and it is very annoying... Putting them in a properly tuned projector produces a very controlled and intense pattern that is focused where it will not blind oncoming traffic. The stock housing scatters light everywhere, which is not only not safe to other drivers, but it also does not produce the same quality of light for the driver of the vehicle that has them installed. The difference is so drastic that anyone who has ever had a properly set up pair of HID's in projectors could never go back to a crappy plug and play install. That being said, I'm not going to bag on people who do it... I just find it annoying and unsafe with no real benefit other than the "look" of a blue light (projectors create this blue appearance at certain angles using the shield that safely cuts off the light, not using a colored gas).

I like the two tone dip. Nice DJ.

why are you surprised? It is still markedly sooner than the manual states...

The rotors are not big enough, which in turn means that the calipers are not big enough. The larger contact area of the newer brakes is what makes the biggest difference. Also, the quality of the pads and rotors are not quite where they should be. You could easily upgrade to heavy duty parts and keep the same brake component sizes and be just fine, but the bigger brakes do improve the performance significantly.