Lobitz68

Canbus isn't what is causing the flickering, it is the PWM signal that is sent to the light. If it were the Canbus he would have a "light out" indicator in the dash. That being said, the kit you linked is nothing more than $1 capacitors kitted with shitty Chinese parts and up-charged significantly. I don't doubt it works, but that does not mean it is a good kit, fair price, or a quality product. I would personally spend the extra $ on a nice kit and skip the up-charge to hide $1 capacitors in a box with shitty Chinese parts. Just my opinion.

I agree. I have heard several similar reports from friends and the almighty internet... With a repair that expensive I would get a second opinion.

Mine does too, but I have to be within bluetooth range... at almost 3000 feet I am WAY outside that range. 10 minutes later when I get within range it will not connect.

You're stopped in the crosswalk... Come on!

Assuming he spelled it wrong, I think it means "press some keys"...

I notice that when I remote start my DJ from far enough away that bluetooth doesn't reach (I have 3000' range) that my bluetooth will not connect when I get to the car... Any idea if the update fixes this? That would be awesome!

Everything is more expensive in Canada... A case of beer is like $50!! I have a buddy who moved to MN to go to school and I love going to the bar with him. No matter how high the tab is, he always wants to pick it up because it is so cheap compared to back home. Ha!

I joined the day I bought it, but perused the site prior to making the purchase. I researched for a while and was stuck on either the Edge or the Journey. For what I would pay for a similarly equipped Edge with 60k miles on it, I got a brand new DJ with 4 miles on it and a lifetime warranty. Made the choice pretty easy... When I first joined, this forum was VERY quiet compared to the Dakota, Ram and Avenger forums I had been on prior. I was worried I would get through every post and see very few updates. Luckily that has changed a little since more people are buying DJ's. It's still a little quiet for my liking, so I'd give it a 7... The moderators are dinks.

The 2012 model should have the bigger brakes. Pretty easy to tell by looking at the wheels. The big brakes leave very little room behind the wheel compared to the smaller brakes on earlier models.

Typically you need to start at the top because the panel is held in by the dash. Starting at the top, pop out all of the clips down to the dash. Pull up and away and it should pop free pretty easily...

While I tend to agree about flushing a tranny with 100k plus miles between flushes, I don't agree that you shouldn't flush based simply on miles. If the tranny was serviced at the correct intervals then a flush as 300k miles should be fine. It is when you don't do it all and then do it the first time with high miles where it should be a concern. Also, not all "flushes" are under pressure. Many places "flush" the fluids by using the pump in the transmission... This creates no more pressure than if you were driving down the road shifting through the gears... My 2 cents.

I don't recall what Powerz69 did, but I bought TYC replacement lights from Rock Auto (cheapest place to get them that I could find). His retro is a long term project, so I assume he did the same thing, but don't remember for sure. Permasealed lights can be opened (higher temp + longer times + more reheats), you will just likely end up deforming the black lip the lens sits in when prying them apart. The lip is hidden from view though and could be bent back into place with a little extra effort. I chose replacement lights so I had more time to work...

They are permasealed.

I would avoid the TIPM... They are very expensive to replace if you mess something up.

I think that it is a proprietary plug. You may need to get it directly from Dodge.

I'd go with the '12 too... Too many issues on the '09 as a first year production and the '12 is much improved.

I got mine when I bought the DJ... Was like $20 extra each month or something. Didn't make sense not to get it at that point.

Use a 4700mF cap on the vehicle side of the relay. Pin it directly to the relay neg and pos. Be careful, if you wire it backwards, it will blow and you will need to buy a new one... The negative lead on a capacitor is typically the shorter of the 2 leads.

The resistors and a relay perform a completely different task... Resistors provide resistance (hence the name), fooling the vehicle into thinking that there is a halogen bulb being used. Remember, modern vehicles blink faster to indicate that you have a bulb out and since LEDs do not have a filament they do not show the same amount of resistance as a halogen filament type bulb. This is why you add a resistor. A relay harness provides power to your HIDs (in this case) directly from the battery. They use the OEM bulb harness to close the circuit and provide 12 volts to your bulb directly from the battery. When the lights are turned off, the relay is open and no power is provided. The reason your bulbs are strobing could be one of two things... First, it could be the vehicle thinking that there is a bulb out. There would be a bulb out indicator on the dash in this case, and the fix would be use of a resistor. More likely what is happening is that the ballast is seeing a fluctuation in power supply because Dodge vehicles use pulse width modulation (PWM) which does not provide a steady 12 volt source of power. Essentially, the power source fluctuates up and down. When there is not enough power to feed the ballast, it flickers. It is possible that the harness you linked could fix the flickering of your lights, assuming that it doesn't require a full 12 volt signal to activate the relay. If it requires a full 12 volts to activate the relay, then you would need to get a relay with a capacitor built in. This performs the same function as a standard relay harness, but the capacitor holds a charge so that when the PWM provides a power source below 12 volts, the capacitor releases extra power to make up for the loss. When the PWM goes back to a full 12 volts, the capacitor charges and the cycle repeats. Think of it as a small battery that smooth the peaks and dips out of the factory signal. Hope that help.

If not, It should be a relatively easy repair to do yourself...

There are some under the door too... Maybe you just haven't noticed them before.

Weird... No changes other than a software update? Have you verified that all of the hidden wiring is firmly attached?

Ha! True... There are only two though (according to Metra), so it should be easy. One for the stereo and one for the steering wheel controls.

The plastic doesn't take up much extra room really (haven't you changed your oil yet??)... It's all engine there. Would probably have to have the hood altered to allow room for a SC, but man would that be cool.

Care to elaborate for the sake of others? What was going on? What was the failure exactly? You have the 3.6, right?