Lobitz68

I hear you on that... Luckily, the lights were remarkably cheap through Rockauto. I just don't have the time to complete a project like this all in one day, so getting an extra set was a no-brainer. If you are going to be buying your stuff through TRS I would suggest waiting until Black Friday. They have a huge sale every year and you will save a TON of $$$...

I can't help you, but I would tell them it is a factory part and threaten taking them to small claims court if they don't reimburse you for the part. Most of the time paying for the repair is going to be significantly cheaper and easier than going to court over $180... JMO

Not bad advice, though you will likely end up wasting a good part of the day and get the answer, "that is just how it is" or they won't know what you are talking about. I hate to be a pessimist, but it has become a pretty standard response by dealer mechanics for all brands...

There are a ton of options out there... anything that is 5 x 5" (or 5 x 127mm) and a high positive offset should fit. Depending what year you own, the caliper size will play a role as well. Here is a neat little tool that will get you a start on a list of OEM wheels that should fit... just put in the size you are looking for and hit search. http://www.roadkillcustoms.com/hot-rods-rat-rods/Wheel-Bolt-Pattern-Cross-Reference-Database.asp#axzz3GoIMk21N Here is a list of Dodge wheel patterns... http://www.discountedwheelwarehouse.com/Dodge___Vehicle_Bolt_Pattern_Reference.cfm

Maybe I will try that... Honestly, I don't listen to the radio a lot, but when I do (usually to listen to a football or hockey game) I want to have a signal...

From what I could find by searching Google it looks like the Nitro bolt pattern is a 5 x 4.5" whereas the bolt pattern on a DJ is 5 x 5"... Long story short; they won't fit...

Milous... another very useful post. Thanks! I would have assumed that they still used the float style sensor. GeoDude, from my research it looks like you will need to drain the system and then manually clean the sensor to get it working again (of course, that is what Milous already posted). Let us know how it goes.

I think that it is just the way the transmission is set up. The Avenger was my daily driver before I got the DJ and I think it just felt weird because it was a characteristic I wasn't used to. The vehicle still brakes just fine and if you watch the tach, the rpms are well within the range you would expect.

Oh, I see... I just removed the whole grill as a unit and sprayed the whole thing... Oh well. I will leave it as is.

My understanding of the purpose of the resonator is that it helps to reduce a specific frequency (or range of frequencies) that is most prominent from a given engine. Removing the resonators may or may not make more noise, but it will definitely change the tone of the exhaust. I cannot tell you if the tone will be higher in pitch or lower, but it will change. Based on this understanding, I would assume that the stock resonators are tuned (length, width, chamber size, etc) to deal with whatever tones the stock muffler doesn't adequately muffle. So, the muffler performs it's job and is not "overkill"... The resonators are likely the "overkill" part of the equation, but also perform a very valid function. I think that your best bet, if you're not sure, is to listen to some clips on the forum and on YouTube and decide which sound you prefer. I would still start with one or the other, not both... But that is just my opinion.

I had duelers on a couple of my trucks... they do quite well.

If it is what my wife's Avenger does then it is hard to describe... I've heard it described as lunging and also as if the brakes released briefly.

Not worried about Sirius... Just local stations.

Misses how? I have the 2.4 in my Avenger and the transmission shifts in a way that made me think it was doing something similar... You sure it is actually missing? That should throw an MIL...

Since you don't want it crazy loud I guess I would start with the muffler and see how it sounds. Cutting out the resonators should be pretty quick,cheap and easy if you feel you need more sound...

I like that shroud...looks great in there! You are still mounting them to the bowl though, correct? Should get quite a bit of adjustment that way...just need to get them close. What lights are you using?

I used the TRS Mopar low beam relay harness with a capacitor and made a harness of my own for the passenger side that has a a resistor to show a 55w load... both sides run off of the driver side plug through the relay harness and the capacitor shows a load in that side. Theoretically it should work like that for as long as the components last. The harnesses are high quality so I expect them to last a while. Seems to be working fine so far.

Realistically, you will probably need to do some adjusting anyway... I suppose if you tightened the 3 bolts in the right order you could get really damn close, but it will still be off by a little bit. What are you planning on using? Will they require cutting of the bowl and some kind of mounting that would prevent you from using the adjusters? Didn't realize that the Gatlings only fit the MH1's...guess you learn something every day. Do the 6.0's have the foreground limiters? Wish I would have took those out.

Ha! It's not that you want to be a yuppie... It is a wannabe truck that yuppies can drive. By definition, that would mean you ARE a yuppie, not that you want to be one... Of course, I'm just giving you a hard time.

You will still get a more aggressive tone by replacing the muffler and leaving the resonator. It is all personal preference. It WILL be louder without the resonators though... I have not done my exhaust, so I cannot speak to cabin drone, but my assumption based on previous vehicles is that the resonators would help keep it in check.

Here are a few pics of the completed project both with the headlights off and with them on... The "off" pics kind of suck, but hopefully I can post some better pics later.