Lobitz68

Yes.

You must have a bunch of hacks around you doing half-assed jobs... Mine has a finish like the paint...you can see yourself in them. As stated, mine are lightly tinted, not black. Its not worth getting in an accident over or getting harassed by law enforcement. Both of my current vehicles are done and the visibility of the tail lights is not impaired in the least. There is something to be said about doing it right. No body shop involved and mine look great.

Not sure about a 2010, but the newer models need to be 17" to clear the brakes...

Sorry I haven't gotten any pics up yet... been busy. I am playing in a hockey tournament this weekend, but I will try and get some progress pics up Saturday or Sunday as time allows.

Every interior light in the 2014 is an LED except for the 2 on the lower portion of the rear hatch (not sure why those ones aren't). Map lights,cup holder, door pockets, underside of the door, etc...

I would say that they are cheaply made..."Back in the old days" there was nowhere near as many features and none of the electronics were even slightly complicated. If you want the fancy features, sometimes you have to deal with warranty work.

My wife rarely drives the DJ, but when she does it pisses me off. I am 6'3" and she is only 4'10"... There are a LOT of adjustments to make when she takes it... I have to make some of them before I can even get in the car!!

Just tint them yourself... A few coats of Niteshades, followed by a few coats of clear... Wet sand, polish and wax for a stunning finish. Should be able to get it all done in a matter of a few hours (spread over a couple days). I do this to all of my vehicles, just enough to make the red pop less, not so that you cannot see the tail lights. While you're at it, do the reflectors in the bumper too.

I wasn't suggesting that anyone go that long, just stating that if you did and then had the oil tested, the results would likely be that the oil was still good. Definitely stay within the bounds of the warranty.

You could probably go 18,000 and be safe... Change it when the light turns on, use good oil and don't worry about it. Does your dealer do your oil changes by chance? Only reason I could think that they would blow smoke up your ass about oil changes is because they want the business... I would steer clear of that dealer.

Pretty sure they are referring to the interior lights...

The CV joints would likely be pretty noticeable, not something I would describe as "faint"... If it is quiet then I would lean away from any component with lots of weight or pressure on it... OP, you sure it wasn't just a rock in your tread or something?

I assume that you mean when you are looking at the front of the vehicle? If so, yes, you have the headlamp toward the outside of the vehicle and the blinker on the top inside corner. The light below the blinker is your high beam and your DRL (if so equipped)...

Well, I finally ordered and received my replacement headlamps late last week, so I began my retrofit over the weekend. I've been super busy lately, so I may not get to the finishing touches for a week or so, but here is where I am at as of today... I ordered the NSF certified TYC replacement housings from Rockauto.com. Cost for both sides with shipping was right around $200. I did this for 2 reasons...(1) if I ever need to I can always switch back to the oem housing at any time and (2) if gives me a little more time to complete the job since I'm just too busy to dedicate an entire day to the project. The headlights took about 3 days to get to me and when they showed up they were in excellent condition and appeared to be very well built. I bought the TYC's due to some quality issues I have had with past retrofits using other manufacturers and I was glad I did when I received them. The first order of business was to separate the lens from the housing... Luckily these were sealed with butyl and not the permaseal that the oem headlights use (another good reason to go aftermarket), so they were pretty simple to open. After removing all of the bulbs and the rubber boots on the back, 20 minutes in the oven at 220 degrees F got them apart pretty easily. The next step was paint. I have an all black DJ with tinted tails and the front end and wheels are all blacked out...black seemed like the obvious choice for the headlights as well. Since I am planning on keeping the high beams I decide to black out everything except the high beam reflector. For those who haven't seen it, there is a chrome surround (which contains the side reflector) that is screwed to the lens, and all 3 of the reflector bowls are attached to the back half of the housing. In order to paint the chrome needed to be removed from all of these pieces, so I separated the surround from the lens and removed the turn signal reflector bowl from the housing. The high and low beam reflector bowls are a single piece and are connected to the adjusters, so I just left those in the and taped off the high beam to protect its finish. I also removed the amber reflector from the surround. In order to remove all of the chrome I sprayed everything thing down with oven cleaner and waited about 15 minutes. The chrome finish rinses away at this point, leaving only the unfinished plastic behind. The turn signal reflector bowl ended up being a very shiny black...score, I don't have to paint these! The chrome surround was also black, but the finish was dull, so those got set aside for paint. The low beam reflector bowl ended up being a hideous puke color...DEFINITELY needs paint. For paint I decided to go with UV protected plastidip... I plastidipped all of the above mentioned components (except the blinker bowls) as well as the shrouds for the projectors. After above 5 coats of black plastidip I also sprayed some "glossifier" on these parts to give them some shine. I also tinted the side reflector with niteshades and shot it with clear coat to give it some shine. After paint I put everything back together, but kept the lenses separated from the housings. This is all I was able to complete this weekend due to a hockey tournament that my son was in (as well as a game or two for myself). The plan is to let the dip cure for a week and then get the housings installed on the DJ so that I can set the horizontal orientation of the projectors and get them dialed in before re-sealing the lenses onto the housing. I'll try and get some pics of the process posted up and will update this thread as I complete more of the job. Thanks for looking!

On the vehicles I had the wiring was run as it would be if you had the option, so they ran right up to the fog light location on each side...

Mine pops out too, that is just the nature of the switch. You push it in once and they turn on...do it again and they turn off. All of my late model Dodges have had wiring for factory fogs even if they weren't installed (2002 Ram, 2004 Dakota and 2012 Avenger), so it is definitely worth checking for it before spending the money...

I've seen some research that says if you do go with only 2 snow tires that it is actually better to put them on the rear... Keeps the rear end from swinging up on you in corners, during hard stops, etc. I would still recommend doing all 4 though.

Plenty of them...

There are several option listed and discussed here: http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring-kits-for-vehicles-being-towed.aspx#bulb

Ha! Ummm....