Lobitz68

That's black, the sun is just reflecting off of the shelving in my garage... I can try and get better pics if it ever stops raining. The are 6 coats of matte black with 2 heavy coats of glossifier on top. I sprayed them on the vehicle by cutting a garbage bag and wrapping it around the brakes. When I finished the last coat on each wheel i pulled the bag out the back of the wheel. If you wanted to no spray the center cap you can just peel that part when you finish. Since mine were on the car I sprayed everything. When I rotate my wheels I will likely have to touch them up but that is the beauty of this stuff...easy to spray, easy to repair, and easy to remove!

Your exclamation points don't get your point across as well as presenting information would... I know you tried this, but the details of what exactly you tried and what the results were would be very useful. Might even get yours going too. Why wouldn't it see a load? The factory wiring will still be used in the dash and rear, and the fronts will run to the Audio Control units from the speaker leads in the doors... Worst case I can put some resistors in, but I don't see why it wouldn't create a load unless I didn't use the factory wiring. I guess I'll find out when I do it.

Sorry for the crappy pic... it has been raining here non-stop and the DJ is filthy, including the wheel...

More or less a fancy LOC, but it does some things with the signal too like stop the bass drop off programmed in the stock stereo, gives bass control in the front of the vehicle, and provides a cleaner and stronger signal to the amp. Audio Control has been making top of the line audio products for decades. Only the best from what I've heard/seen. I think the speaker grills pop out of the dash pretty easy, they look separate from the dash... The stock sub is on the driver's side, right? I was looking at the passenger side because it looks like there is more room. I haven't had the panel off yet though, so who knows what is back there...

Agreed. Does the 3.5l have different requirements? As stated above, your owners manual should tell you what to use for your climate. I always stick to whatever the manual says to avoid warranty issues.

Just about anything would go good with white... I think you're options will be plenty.

Let's hope it's not a miracle! I'm hoping it goes smoothly and uneventful! My direction has changed a little bit on this build: I'm thinking that the 3.5" speakers in the dash may be enough to skip the components and just go with 2-ways in all 4 doors I still want to run a little more power to the front doors as those are the ones I am concerned about I may upgrade the rears, but not put any additional power to them since they are just filler anyway I may also upgrade the 3.5" speakers in the dash, but will probably wait to see what it sounds like with the factory speakers frist Rather than using a traditional LOC, I am looking at the Audio Control LC2i Still want to add a sub, but looking at the side panels, I'm not sure how big I can go. If I can't get at least a 10" in there, I may just put them in a box (I'd like to save the room though)

What is your opinion of the Sound Ordinance stuff? Quality built? Sound?

Cool. I'll take a peek... What have you done? Anyone have any thoughts on skipping the Components in the front doors and just replacing the 3.5" in the dash? Is it even worth replacing? Think I'd be able to hear it over the amped door speakers and sub if I left it stock or just didn't amplify the signal?

Search "Mopar Wholesale" on the internet and look at one of the wholesaler's sites. You will get a much better price than at the dealer. Be prepared to try and find it in a bunch of parts diagrams... it is sometimes a painful process.

It looks like it is removable... I just drove up on some ramps and sprayed it on the vehicle...

I'll try and remember to get some pics up tonight... I have one or two from a distance, but nothing close up.

Where as the wife is always frigid, so what's the difference! Ha! I like how you think...

I have done mine. 4 cans of color and 1 can of glossifier did a great job. I really like the anthracite grey, but black would look nice too. Definitely use the glossifier. I have also done my grill and my lower front fascia. Stuff is easy to work with, but you need to do it just right to get smooth results.

I would spend the extra money for the PAC SOEM-4 (EDIT: replaced by the LP7-4). Very nice unit that is quiet (does not introduce noise into the signal), doesn't require a separate remote turn on lead, can receive up to 60w for the input signal and provides 4 channels... Very easy install once you figure out how to run the remote turn on (the instructions aren't very clear). I'm planning on using this one and will report if I have issues, or if it is a success...

Yes, some of it was dealer stuff... It was at a volume dealer. Not sure if they get better deals or what, but before trade in and options/TTL/extended warranty I had $7,000 in rebates. Only reason I bought it, I was looking at used vehicles but couldn't say no to that kind of a deal. Same thing happened 2 years ago when I bought my Avenger. Was looking at something else, but the deal was insane.

I don't know how it works in Winnipeg, but in Minnesota the wife rides back there... That's a no brainer.

Biggest thing for texture is staying 90 degrees to the surface you are spraying, staying 6 inches away and making sure the cans stay warm (I put them in a bucket of warm water before I start and in between coats). It's also important to have the first two coats be VERY light, maybe 50 percent coverage...after that lay them on thick and wet.

Where did you tap in to get the signal for the LOC? I used the factory stereo on my Avenger and it worked fine. I guess it is something to look into, thanks for the heads up.

It's a line out convertor that takes speaker level signals and converts them to RCA. If you get the right one (would have to look at the model number on the one on my Avenger, but I think it is the SOEM-4) the remote lead is taken care of internally... EDIT: I stand corrected, the unit he is referring to plugs into the back of the stereo... I am planning on using an actual line out convertor and connecting it on the speaker side (not the stereo side). This should be after any canbus interaction and should work fine... I guess I'll find out.

I got $7,000 in rebates when I bought my '14 in March...

Ha! don't be scared, your paint will be fine... I've done it plenty of times. The amount of work involved in taping stuff off like it was real paint would be a nightmare. Especially since you need to pull off all of the tape while the product is still wet...if you don't it will peel what you don't want peeled. I have my wheels, grille and lower valance all blacked out currently. The finish is thick and smooth and withstands pressure washers and touch car washes just fine. Really a great product.

Planning on keeping the stock stereo. I don't really have any brand loyalties; I have tried many different brands throughout my life and for my listening needs the big names are all pretty similar when keeping in my mind my budget conscious decision making process... I am still not entirely set on components, but it it edging out replacing all 6 speakers at this point due to the better staging and ease of install compared to dealing with the speakers in the dash. I'm just starting to feel this out and am unsure if I want to do the projector retrofit or the stereo first... The projectors would be cheaper (since I have just about everything pieced together), but the stereo really drives me nuts... I have had the DJ since early March and it is the longest I've gone without an upgraded stereo in a LONG time... It is killing me.

You wouldn't need to remove the roof rails or the door handles to do it right. There are lines that separate the area you want to dip from the areas you don't. Simply tape around the area you want to dip, leaving an inch or so, and when everything cures peel the inch that is remaining around the handle and roof rails. That's the beauty of this stuff, how easy it is to work with while remaining quite durable.