Lobitz68

That makes sense... I've contemplated a 5-channel, which would allow me that adjustability, but I just don't think I need to rear speakers amplified and the extra cost is definitely a factor if that is the case... That and I've found several 4-channel amps that allow you to use your high pass on 2 channels and low on the other 2 (bridged channel). I think this should work just fine. Once again, not the BEST option, but a very viable option that will meet my (not very lofty) goal of better sound (clarity) and more volume. My main goal here is simplicity and improvement at a reasonable price. 2 amps would certainly be the most functional, but it complicates other things like the need for a distribution block. It also adds cost (generally speaking). Thoughts?

I've noticed that the inside rears have worn faster on just about every vehicle I've ever done the rear brakes on... Seems common to me. Although you'd think that they would engineer that into the design somehow to provide for more even wear.

I realize this isn't directed toward me, but.... I removed the entire grill from the vehicle so that I could get it clean and, more importantly, dry... I them sprayed the entire grill and put it back on. You could do it on the vehicle, but you need to put some plastic or cardboard behind the grill to protect the radiator and other stuff up front. The chrome trim can also be removed, but I didn't feel like it was worth the risk of breaking one of the tabs, so I just sprayed everything.

Care to explain further? I upgraded my 2012 Avenger without any issues and it runs off of the same canbus system as the DJ. I will likely have to use a LOC for the amplified speakers and sub, but that isn't an issue. You just need to tap into the wiring from the speaker side. Unless I'm missing something???? Either way, your post would be more helpful if you expanded on your thoughts some. Thanks for the feedback.

I meant a 4-channel amp...my bad. 1 channel for each front speaker and the sub running off of the other two bridged... I have the base 6 speaker stereo with the 8.4" screen, no stock amplifier.

I really love my DJ, but the sound level and clarity provided by the stock speakers sounds like its coming from, well, stock speakers (not so good). So, I have decided to upgrade the speakers to give me the volume and clarity that I am looking for. Normally I might just replace the shitty paper speakers with some nicer aftermarket replacement speakers, but the fact that I have to crank the stereo to really hear it with the windows down has lead me to amplified aftermarket speakers. All of this being said, I am not an audiophile and do not need perfect staging or the highest end sound...I just need improvement. So, here is my plan... I welcome your opinions and criticisms (keep it civil). For the front, I am planning on going with component speakers. I plan to get something in the 60-80 watt range and plan on mounting the separate tweeter in the sail panel on the door. I will amplify these. For the rears I am thinking about just replacing the stock speakers with a decent aftermarket that can be driven by the head unit. I will NOT amplify these. I am also planning on adding a subwoofer. Likely a 12" that runs on low power, maybe something in the 250-300 watt range. This will be mounted in a custom enclosure behind the rear passenger side panel in the cargo area. I spend all of my time in the front of the vehicle, so I am most concerned about the sound there... I think that aftermarket replacements will sound just fine in the rears coupled with all of the other upgrades that I want to make. By going this route I hope to be able to get by with a single 3-channel amp an minimal additional wiring (will only have to run new wire to the front speakers rather than all 4). I think that this will satisfy my sound requirements and enhance the listening experience significantly. Does anyone see any issues with this route? Does anyone have any suggestions based off their personal experiences that are different from the route I have chosen? And, most importantly, has anyone run into an issues installing aftermarket audio upgrades to their DJ? I have PLENTY of experience installing audio systems, but any other suggestions or opinions you have to offer are appreciated (we can always learn something new)... Thanks gang! Appreciate the insight.

My only suggestion would be to ensure that it matches the tongue weight rating of the vehicle and that you don't overload it... Other than that, I think they are likely very similar.

What are your application concerns? I am fairly proficient with this stuff and there are a bunch of small tricks that really help you get a nice finished product... Maybe I can help.

Ha! This post is a bit older... thinking that this has been resolved by now.

It only supports messaging with certain models... I believe you can look your phone model up on the uconnect site and see if your model is compatible.

After reading this post I've made a point to look at other vehicles. You are correct, most of them have very close to a 180 degree sweep. Ours starts at about 15 degrees and stops 20-30 degrees short of a full 180 degree sweep... I guess since I never really noticed, it must not bother me. This is the first vehicle I have owned with a rear wiper though so I have nothing to compare it to. I've always driven pickups or my wife's cars...

It's nice to find a competent dealer that isn't as painful to deal with. Hopefully things work out.

Depends on the brake compound... Some cars still use organic compound on the rear brakes which wears out faster than a semi-metallic or ceramic pads...

Maybe... Any sign of a Tim Hortons cup or maybe a hockey puck under one of the seats? (all in good fun Canadians...I like Tim Hortons and play hockey too...although I am in Minnesota and we are very similar, eh?)

So, you can see the polarity on one side, but not the other... I would assume the other side would match up with the ones you can see... Regardless, try them without the capacitors to make sure they fire... That will point you in the right direction. EDIT: From the review on the link you sent me (notice it is a Dodge product)... "I bought these to go on my moms 06 dodge charger and they worked perfectly. The only thing for anyone else using these on Charger Magnum and 300's is you have to plug in the OEM plug into the canceler upside down or the bulbs wont turn on at all. Thanks DDM :"

Is it the round thing to the left of the brake lamp? That is the wiper fluid sprayer... I believe that the back up camera is directly above the center of the rear license plate bracket. Attached to the underside of the door where the handle is.

If your lights turned on then I'm sure you're fine. I've never used the eliminators as I always purchase (or make) a harness and use the capacitor just prior to the switches on the harness. The capacitor isn't hidden in a box then and you everything is pretty obvious as far as polarity... You should definitely check your ballast connection though, those are notoriously wrong on value brands... I would go ahead and try them without the capacitors to verify functionality. Then you have a starting point. Do you have pics of the capacitors (I can't see them from work if they are in a photo hosting website, sorry)?

I'm far too lazy to do the math, but my display says I'm at about 24 mpg with mixed driving and I am very happy with that...

Probably a good idea not to leave it up to individuals to make the choice... A lot of people make bad ones... Here it is 3,000lbs, but there are clearly some vehicles that could tow 2,000lbs but not stop it safely.

Is the use of DRLs mandated in NC? My guess would be that maybe each states laws may have something to do with it... Mine has the option, but I've never tried to turn them on since I don't want them on...

You always need to check and make sure that you are negative to negative and positive to positive, especially when you buy a value brand like DDM. Also, be very careful when installing aftermarket HIDs on any Chrysler product because you can easily fry the TIPM if you get things mixed up and a replacement is $pendy (like $1,500!!!).

The difference in brake size is very noticeable just by looking at them... Mine BARELY clear the wheels (by maybe a 1/16"). I have the 17" wheels though. The backs are also very large.

Modern vehicles no longer have a "break in period" as used to be the case. My oil light went on for the first time at just a little over 4,000 miles so I changed it to synthetic then. I always swap over at the first oil change.

Good luck!

Probably not then...