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Powerz69

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Everything posted by Powerz69

  1. Powerz69
    That looks good! I bet you don't even notice it unless you are looking for it. Now I'm leaning towards getting one and hiding it like yours. I would have just mounted mine in the same spot just in front of the grill.
  2. Powerz69
    I have Nav traffic on mine I think. Does Nav traffic have something to do with the cars in your picture? Or it will tell you if a delay is on your route and give a delay time? If so I bought my DD in May 2014, and Nav traffic just started to work 2 months ago on it's own. I'm on the 1 year free trial still. Also how did you make your map so big on your screen? I cannot figure how to make my map bigger, or if breadcrumbs can be shown.
  3. Powerz69
    SD slot above the CD slot. Edit: changed picture to prevent injuries!!!
  4. Powerz69
    Can you post a picture of your light bar during the day turned off? I'm just curious how it looks mounted there. What kind is it?
  5. Powerz69
    I get this also on my 2014, I'll try the neutral thing also cause it makes sense. I think I heard the winter cold start sound today that was mentioned earlier. It sounded like a 1-2 second buzz when it started.
  6. Powerz69
    For the highs go with a 9011 HIR bulb, it's a perfect fit. I would go this way over HID just for the instant on, no warm up time. You will be wasting your money going with Silverstars! Silverstars offer the same amount of lumens, or less lumens then your current bulbs. They have a slight blue coating that gives a whiter look over normal bulbs. That whiter look makes you think the bulbs are brighter but they are not as the lumens are less. Lumens determine actual brightness. Your best lighting options with a halogen bulb would be HIR bulbs. Hi Beam: 9005, 12.8V, 65W, 1700 lumens, 320 hours. Hi Beam ... HIR1(9011), 12.8V, 65W, 2530 lumens, 400 hours. Silverstar ultra: 9005, 12.8V, 65W, 1700 lumens, 100 hours. Lo Beam: 9006, 12.8V, 55W, 1006 lumens, 360 hours. Lo Beam ... HIR2(9012), 12.8V, 55W, 1875 lumens, 1000 hours. Silverstar ultra: 9006, 12.8V, 55W, 1000 lumens, 200 hours. HID capsule - 35 watts - 2800 lumens
  7. Powerz69
    Are you looking for better low beams or high beams?
  8. Powerz69
    Really? I couldn't get the headlights out without removing the 3 screws on the end of the bumper. I removed the 5 push in clips at each wheel wells, 4-5 clips on top of the grill, 3 screws on each side of the bumper and 3 bolts from each headlight.I would like to know how much the grill and bumper has to bend to get the headlight out? Out of fear I never overly bent mine. Picture with my bumper lowered.
  9. Powerz69
    If you use Google chrome there will be a shield in top right hand corner in the address bar. Press the shield and click "load unsafe script". Click and download the file, the file will save now. I cannot get the latest IE to work.
  10. Powerz69
    It's a pain in the a$$ to get the headlights out. As for the permaseal heat and pick a corner to start working on. Try to slide a small flat blade screwdriver along the edges to loosen the permaseal up. Once you can get a 1/4 way open the rest is a lot easier. You will chew up the plastic channel but you can straighten it out very good with a heatgun after. You are thinking to much about it, since you opened headlights before it's the same just a bit longer and tougher. WEAR GLOVES!
  11. Powerz69
    Yes!
  12. Powerz69
    The plastic piece can be pried and pulled off. The fog light housing itself has the nuts behind the bumper, so removing the plastic does nothing really.
  13. Powerz69
    I'm kind of curious now also. My thinking still says there will be no or hardly any difference, because the LED only needs a little bit of power to run. It would be cool if it did get brighter though.
  14. Powerz69
    What Totemus did was remove the high beam bulb(9005) from the factory location and installed a led bulb in there instead. The DRL are the high beams at half power or something like that. Because it's a led bulb now it won't give off the bright light like a 9005 bulb would. So the question was, Because of the led replaces the 9005 high beam bulb it won't get brighter so it can only be used as DRL all the time, not high beams. If you flash your stock high beams while driving your DRL will turn back to regular voltage and your brights will be on alerting oncoming drivers. So what is being said here is, because of using the led bulb the flash to pass will not work. The projector has 1 HID bulb. the low beam has have a cutoff shield that will go in front of the bulb so there will be no glare in oncoming drivers eyes. The high beam is the cutoff shield dropped exposing all the light everywhere, but the high beam only works if the low beam light is on. So on the Journey the lights will have to be on in order to have a high beam, and a flash to pass will work this way.
  15. Powerz69
    Yes the projectors will be mounted to the bowls with bolts. I'm just going to be using cheap bulbs for now, 4300k and 5000k which ever I like best more likely the 4300k as the 5000k are old and used. I'm waiting untill TRS has another sale on their CBI bulbs and I'll buy those, just for the price of shipping to me. I'm using CBI bulbs in my FX-R projector I did to my truck and love them. At $200 I think they are worth it, but now TRS has their new bulbs out that are susposed to be just as good for $50. *** sorry for the thread hijack, I'll make my own.
  16. Powerz69
    I'm doing a MD2S 3.0 with Apollo 2.0 shrouds. Yes I have to cut up the bowls to sink the projectors to fit the large shrouds. This is what I have so far.
  17. Powerz69
    Great! So I'm thinking once I get my projectors mounted I'll take a white marking pen and mark around the 3 mounting bolts on the headlight. That way when I reinstall them after fitting my shrouds the headlights should be exact as to where the projectors were when mounted. I would say MH1 6.0. Just because the shroud is a mini Gatling gun and only fits on the MH1. The 6.0 because a retrofitter did it and would have used current projectors. The shrouds on the MD2S are huge.
  18. Powerz69
    When I test fitted my retro and put the OEM headlight back in I noticed my factory cutoff is lower by 2" at 5' on one side now. So when you installed your lights did you have lots of adjusting of the headlights? Or did you just install and adjust the lights vertically to line up your cutoff? Your cutoff looks great, very even. You type faster then I do. LOL
  19. Powerz69
    Your post sounds like it's aimed(pun) more towards a PNP HID KIT then a BI-XENON HID projector retrofit. They say pictures are worth a thousand words, well I hope the pictures in this thread never showed up for you because of your post you made. Do a search on what a BI-XENON projector is and come back and read your post as it makes no sense.
  20. Powerz69
    Take your time! There's no point in trying to rush it and end up redoing them cause you weren't happy with something. At least the paint will be fully cured now.
  21. Powerz69
    The issue is the space of the headlight surround. It tappers inward towards the bowl, and measures at 4, 3/16" closest spot. So even if your projector is dead centre it still has to fit in the headlight surround and still have space for vertical headlight adjustment. If you factor in everything it's either go with the mini Gatling gun shroud it fits with no issues, or go with a 2.5-3" projector shroud and make it fit by cutting the headlight surround. Both are doable it's just how much work do you want to do. Other option is MD2S square projector with a square Apollo 2.0 shroud. I also think the square projector will look good in the Journeys headlights. If your lights are factory they will be permaseal. The problem with permaseal is not the outside stuff it's the inside stuff does not get hot enough to melt so it can take 3-6 bakes to get them fully opened.
  22. Powerz69
    The shrouds that fit 2.5" - 3" projectors will be too big. I'm in the process of fitting a MD2S 3.0 projector with Apollo 2.0 shrouds. This is turning out to be a full blown retro. Projector needed to be cut into housing as it stuck out too far with the shroud on. Now the shroud needs to be cut because it's to long, and the headlight surround part needs to be notched out so the projector has enough room for up/down adjustment. Right now I'm wishing I would have stuck with the MH1 because I don't have the time needed for a MD2S retro.
  23. Powerz69
    Yes, but the turn signals also have the bulb shield in front of them. I'm just thinking if the bowls are black the reflection won't be bright. I'm just wondering if the bowls are black maybe the bulb shield should be removed to exposes the front of the bulb.
  24. Powerz69
    Looking good! What are your plans for the signal lights? Just curious because you stripped the chrome off.
  25. Powerz69
    WICKED, I cannot wait for the pictures!
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