dhh3

Don't forget Mitsubishi and Suzuki! LOL

This whole thread makes no sense to me. All the OP did was install new rotors, never disconnecting any brake lines. So, why the need for bleeding? I'm cornfused (Hoosier humor!)

Welcome. Search the forum. There is a section for audio, and it has been beat to death.

Not sure what you are talking about. My spare is under my rear seats, on the outside (I have a 3-row). This thread is 6 years old!

I installed a Kicker underseat 8" sub, enclosed in a ported box like a Bose Radio, with an integral amp. 20a fuse. No monster cacles to the battery. It is made for single cab pickups. Fits perfectly under my powered front seat. I have extensive threads on what I did to my stock system. You should really do a search on the forum, and not start rehashing the same old stuff.

That's the first thing I checked when my battery was dead!

All you did was change the rotors. Removing the calipers can be done without disconnecting the brake lines. If the new rotors are thinner than the the original rotors, the calipers will never grab them;, thus the pedal going to the floor. Did anyone compare the width of the old rotors vs the new ones?

AC will come on with your defroster, whether you use AUTO or not. I have a puddle of water just like you posted, but it is ice melt off of the AC evaporator. I use Orange Rain-X wiper fluid, and never see any orange puddles on my garage floor, unless the wind shield is really covered with bugs. I also apply Rain-X to my wind shield a couple of time during the summer so the bugs don't stick!

My extended warranty warranty pays for oil changes every 3,750 miles, or 4 months. Also, free tire rotation every other oil change. So, I'm getting a Mopar filter and whatever oil my Dealer uses (I think Valvolene).

I just noticed that you said AC is off. Since you have an R/T, you probably have AUTO HVAC. If you keep your HVAC in AUTO, like I do, the AC will come on. The AUTO constantly mixes hot and cold air to get to the point where you have set the temp, constantly basing this on outside conditions. So, it could be water from the the evaporator. And, you thought I was done! LOL

Kinda cool.

Interesting. Learned two things today!

The spares on my jeeps had sensors; even my Nitro had one. The spares on the Jeeps were full size; the Nitro was a donut. The indicator on the Nitro was not wheel specific. It would illuminate if any of the 5 were low. I guess Dodge got cheap with the DJ.

The tank is in the front. If you use you rear washer, the fluid has to travel from the tank, which is located in the front of the car, to the nozzle, which is in the rear of the car. If there is a leak in the hose, it could be anywhere along the rubber hose, which runs from the front of the car to the rear of the car. Therefore, if you use your rear washer, and the hose leaks in the front, the puddle would be in the front.

I'd be curious to see what the long term affects would be on the phone with a magnet in such close proximity.

Check the air pressure in your spare.

Have you you used your rear washer? The pump at the bottom of the tank is a two way pump: it runs one way for the front, the opposite way for the back. That being said, there may be a leak in the hose going to the back. Do you only have water in your tank?

Did you have to glue a magnet to the back of your phone?

No longer DJ; now 3J!

Nice.

Hertz GT350!

Does anyone know if an RB5 out of a wrecked 2016 DJ will work in my 2014? All the ads on eBay from LKQ say that a 2011/12 will work on all model years, but one from a 2016 they say it will only work on a 2016. Why up model years, and not down model years?

I can tell you, that with the MyGigs, in the premium systems, the amp output was used as a pre-amp. That being said, all MyGigs were interchangeable; the only difference being whether it ran on a High or Low Speed CanBus. When you turned the radio on, it sent a signal to the amp to come on. Maybe these new radios run the same way. I never looked to see if all the pin locations in the harness were being used. But I do know that a MyGig with an external amp: as soon as you turned on the radio, it reduced the output to pre-amp levels, and turned on the amp. You may be able to cut the speaker wires going into your amp, and use them as speaker level inputs for your new amp. Awesome if it turns out that simple. Then, run the speaker wires from your new amp into the ones coming from your existing amp. If you have an extra wire, it may be the one running from the radio that turns on the amp. There was a member on the Nitro Forum who bought all the parts for the Premium System. He could never get it to work. His radio would not recognize the amp. Dodge told him that there was no way to add it. He added the Premium Sound Sales Code, and it still would not work. So, I'm not sure if deleting the Premium Sales Code is the way to proceed. So, it could be that part of the Premium System ran on the Can Bus, at least on the Nitro. Curious to see how you make out. What do you mean when you say: noise cancelling mic?

I do have the 8.4, non Alpine Premium system. If these new radios are like the old MyGigs, then the function of EQ, Fade, and Balance is part of the HU and not the CanBus. The MyGigs had an internal 66w amp, 16.5 watts/channel. In my Nitro, I had an RBZ MyGig. I installed 2 amps: A 4 channel amp for the radio and a single channel bridgeable amp for the Sub: all Kicker products. I had previously installed the Kicker/Mopar upgrade speakers. The installer at Best Buy used the speaker level inputs for the amps. He cut the speakers wires after the connector. He ran the speaker level wire bundle to the amp for input. Than ran the outputs back up to the cut speaker wires. My Kicker 8" sub was a dual coil, so he used the front speaker level inputs to drive the 1/2 bridgeable amp for the Sub. Both Amps required Monster Cables directly connected to the battery. In my DJ, the underseat sub uses the speaker level inputs from the front speakers. After this connection, he cut all the speakers wires. He then used the 4 channel speaker level inputs to the Alpine Brick Amp, and the amp outputs back to the cut speaker wires. Using speaker level inputs tells me that the EQ, Balance and Fade are still part of the HU, and not the CanBus. I'm guessing here, though.

They give you what they have at the time you get there.