dhh3

I the picture in the first post is what you are getting, I like the color combinations. For myself, I'm trying to see how I can get Charger graphics to work on the sides of my DJ! LOL

Pair the phone via Bluetooth for telephone. Plug the phone into the USB port for music. See if the dreaded text messages go away.

I called my Dealer today. Since the parts are not in stock, I asked if I could be on a list of people to call when the part(s) come in. No need. FCA will send us a Post Card when the parts start going out to the Dealers.

I vote for Clockspring

Lock up clutch in the torque converter.

Did the stock harness just plug into the new sensor? Did the stock harness plug into the new switch? Does the Dealer programming make the "auto" function work properly? Like I said, there is a wire hanging down from the top of the dash to behind the radio. No one seems to know what it is. You mentioned a wire taped to the steering column. Did you have to use it? If so, where did you plug it in? Does a harness (wire) have to go between the new switch and the new sensor? I'll get my trailer lights and auto lights turned on at the same time, if I can get this to work. Thank you for all your effort.

Very rarely drive mine on the highway. So, city now hovers around 18 to 19+. I did witness 36.5 or 35.6 (I can't remember), cruise set on 72 on the Loop around Columbus, Ohio!

Soon after I purchased my DJ, I installed a set of Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus all season, with an 80,00 tread warranty. I had these on my Nitro - 0 issues in snow. With my FWD DJ, 0 issues in snow. This is the first non 4wd vehicle I have in over 20 years, but it just plowed right through the snow. I never touched the TC switch. Now winter #2 is upon me, and all we have gotten is rain, so far. I'm wearing my Packer shorts today, for good luck!

contact oemautopartsco.com they specialize in Dealer take outs and refurbished radios. If a code is needed, they will give it to you. They bench test every radio and if there are scratches on the screen, they will replace it. Good people to deal with. I have purchased 3 radios from them. They do sell on ebay.

Sport Wagon (Hellcat)

Ha! The Red One is for me only!

I have had this happen to me two times. This is my theory on the bad cell. One cell has a bad internal connection. Trying to start the car heats up the battery. This heat is just enough to close the connection, and the car will start. I have an Electronics Degree from the Air Force: but, I could be wrong. Wouldn't be the first time. Just ask bramfrank.

2014 Crossroad. Purchased new last summer. If that wire is coming from the sensor, all I need is the switch! I'll be waiting to see what you find.

I answered the auto headlights in your other thread.

Being in the Printing Industry for over 25 years, Apple has a lock on the Graphics Industry. No going back! LOL

Me too. Yes, I admit it!

Also, check to make sure that the antenna cable is inserted tightly into the back of the radio. There should be a small square plug in the middle of the back of the radio. Make sure this is plugged in tightly. These short antennas are powered. A normal AM/FM antenna is 31" long. Thus, they have to power these short antenna to increase the reception. The small square plug in the middle is the power for the antenna. Your other option would be to pull down the headliner in the rear, to gain access; to make sure everything is plugged in as it should be.

Welcome to the forum. When I asked my Dealer about auto lights, he told me that they would have to take out 1/2 of the dash to run the wire from the sensor to the switch. Let me know what you find out. I do have a wire hanging from the top of the dash to behind the radio. No one knows what it is. It would be nice if it was the wire from the sensor that goes to the light switch!

You may have a bad cell in the battery. It will test fine, but the battery is toast. These new cars do not tolerate low voltage. There are a series of events that must take place before the car will start. The clicking you hear is probably a relay. When the bad cell rears its ugly head, you do not have enough voltage for all of the instantaneous self test before it will start. This is why your lights do not dim.

It is Real Walnut Burl with very few pieces, made specifically for the DJ. Around the radio, cup holders and shifter, 2 vents at the ends of the dash, switches on the doors, start button, dimmer switch and glove box handle. 3M tape and 2 pieces for the 4.2.

The word "MESSAGING" is gray. It is hard to see in this picture. Messaging not available. Just for all you Apple haters, this is the third Mopar I have owned with Uconnect: 2006 Jeep Commander, 2011 Dodge Nitro, and my 2014 DJ. I have had every Apple Phone from the beginning, and with every phone/vehicle combination. I have always had voice recognition, and access to my contacts. I have no idea if I had texting with the Nitro because I never checked, because I could give a s**t about texting in my car. I do not have it in the DJ because the Uconnect fruit cakes won't come out of the Dark Ages and make it compatible with anything higher than iOS7.1. My first cell phone was a Nokia slider. Then I went to a T-Mobile G1, the first Android phone. Then G2, and Samsung Galaxie S3. I did not keep that phone very long, and switched over to Apple. Google made a huge mistake making the OS as an open source platform. That Galaxie was pre-loaded with all kinds of s**t that I would never use, and all of them were constantly begging for an update. Apple preloads very little, and they update themselves.

Received my letter yesterday.

Both sides of mine have been hard to slide from day one. One day, if I get ambitious enough, I'll spray a little WD40 on the tracks.

x2 with the switch, unless something has jammed on the tracks.

A lot of the guys on the Nitro Forumz plastidiped theirs with good results. Start out with a light coat and keep adding to it. If you have to change a tire, you touch them up. At least, this is what they posted.