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I was on the Nitro ZForum for over 3 years! As far as I know, there are no aftermarket tail lights for the DJ. Aftermarket headlights come from China and list for around $800. Your call!

Does this only work with a WiFi connection built into the radio?

My Dealer installed it for me. I, too, saw no difference. There is a new one out: UPDATE 1: UCONNECT 8.4_MY14_MY15_CTP_RADIO_15.03.B2_RE2_RE6M_RB6M. Service Bulletin: 08-33-15.

There is another thread concerning this with a link where you can enter your VIN to see if this affects your car.

My Nitro had a rubber pad on the top. There were two screws under it. I'm not sure about the compartment door, but once you get the faceplate off, the screws may be visible. The panel should just pry off with a panel removal tool (plastic screwdriver). I'd start at the bottom and be careful around the radio. I actually broke mine, and ended up covering the panel with a carbon fiber kit. If you get resistance at the top, there may be more screws related to the top compartment. The vents are clipped to the panel from the inside, if they are like the Nitro. If they fall off, you can just clip them back on. The heater knob panel will have to be unplugged along with the row of switches under the vents. All of this is just like the Nitro, but laid out a little differently. Hope this helps. I wouldn't know where to begin with my dash, but it is probably as easy as my Nitro. I could remove my Nitro panel in about 2 minutes!

Possibly the VVT adjusting the timing for the situation. I have felt it on occasion, but it is not enough for me to be concerned about.

Uconnect security flaw can be patched by owners Your new Jeep Cherokee can be taken over remotely by hackers thanks to an exploit in its Uconnect infotainment system, according to a report from Wired. In a demonstration, a pair of hackers compromised a Cherokee’s onboard systems with writer Andy Greenberg in the driver’s seat. They were able to do everything from control the HVAC (mildly annoying) to kill the engine (potentially deadly) from miles away. We’ve known today’s vehicles were vulnerable to electronic attack for a while now. In 2013, Greenberg sat helplessly in a Toyota Prius as the same hackers -- Charlie Miller and Chris Valasek -- commandeered the controls. That time, however, the pair was sitting in the back seat; they needed a hard-line connection to the car to interfere with its operations. Today, vehicles’ increasingly prevalent onboard cellular systems can provide the link attackers need to seize control. The Fiat Chrysler Uconnect system, shown here in a 2015 Jeep Cherokee, may have security flaws that leave vehicles vulnerable to hackers.PHOTO BY JEEP Before you freak out, know that a software patch is available to fix the problem. Like every other vehicle recall or technical service bulletin ever issued, however, Fiat Chrysler’s fix -- which comes in the form of a user-installable update -- will only improve your vehicle ownership experience/keep you safe from computer-savvy teenagers with malicious intent if it is actually performed on your vehicle. Unlike every other recall/TSB we can think of, however, you can install the upgrade yourself without ever popping the hood. Truly, we are entering a brave new world of vehicle ownership. To install the patch: - Jot down your vehicle’s 17-digit vehicle identification number (VIN) -- you'll need it to see if the software update applies in your situation. - Visit the software update section of the Uconnect website here and input that VIN. From there, you’ll be able to download the relevant update and extract it to a removable USB flash drive. The Uconnect site will guide you through the process if you’re having trouble. There are also a number of helpful, owner-contributed online video tutorials that cover the subject, like this one herefor a Uconnect-equipped Dodge Dart (the update process is the same). - Connect that flash drive into your vehicle via its onboard USB port and, when prompted, confirm that you want to install the update. That’s basically it. - If you don’t feel comfortable performing the procedure yourself, you can take it to a dealership and they’ll perform the update at no cost to you. - If you have any questions, you can call the Fiat Chrysler vehicle care center at (877) 855-8400. A note to all of you feeling smug about not buying a Uconnect-equipped Cherokee: This Jeep may be one of the first vehicles to have its software flaws exposed, but it certainly won’t be the last; in the near future, no automaker, except maybe Morgan, will be totally invulnerable to hackers. Consider it the price we pay for lavish, complicated onboard technology and infinite in-car connectivity, and be prepared to get proactive when it comes to keeping up with emerging threats. Read more: http://autoweek.com/article/car-news/your-jeep-cherokee-vulnerable-hackers-heres-how-fix-it#ixzz3gd6MNPIl

First, you have to find out if the 2009 DJ uses a low or high speed bus. I did for get one step in my original post. Once the module is installed, you will need to take it to the dealer to run the car through StarScan, or whatever they call it now, and have it turned on so that the car knows it is there. Mopar got cheap. Originally, the Uconnect buttons were on the rearview mirrors. Then, they moved them to the radio, whether Uconnect was installed or not.

Welcome to the forum. Is this a ZForum now?

Maybe I'll just try and remove the resonator. Is it where the exhaust pipe gets fatter approximately unde the front passenger seat? Does the 3.6 have two catalytic converters after each exhaust manifold (2)?

Trying to beat google at is own game!

Well, I'm a complete Dumb A**. The drugs are finally getting to me. I have no green light. I looked and looked; no where in sight. I even felt along the bottom of the mirror frame to feel for a indentation for a light. Must have been thinking I was still in my Nitro. The difference in light between the front and rear is correct. My mirror comes on everytime I start the car, and wait for the garage door to open.

A-OK

Welcome to the forum. The stripes look great; not too gaudy!

I had the first 2 Android phones on the market: T-Mobile G1 and G2. I still have the G2 as a back up phone. Then I Went to a Galaxy S3 and got totally sick of all the useless crap that was preloaded on the phone, constantly begging for an upgrade. So, I went to an iPhone. Apple preloads very few aps and they update themselves with new software releases. Google blew it with Android when they let it become an open source platform. Some of the phones now have too much junk on them. In fact, I'm typing this on an iPad Air!

Probably some more colored boxes. Maybe they will be in 3D now and the driver will be stuck wearing red and green glasses! Maybe google glass can adapt them for 3D

I can wait until someone else can post results. Never really concentrated on the sound of an Avenger.

Oh well, I was hoping that you would start with the resonator first. Anyone done this?

Welcome to the forum. It is true that the lights may be soldered to the circuit board. If you are good with a soldering iron, you can remove the bulbs and replace them with LEDs. Guys on the Nitro forum did it. I'm used to looking at my 2014 dash, which is different than your so I can't begin to tell you where to start.

I have a green light, so that I know that it is on. Funny, there is no power button except maybe to unplug it!

Thank you for the update. Maybe a problem isolated to the 2015s. my 2014 has been flawless since day one

In his original post, he said all he needs now is navigation. I didn't tell him to buy an iPhone. I just told him that I use my iPhone for navigation. He can use whatever phone he has for navigation and not spend money that he doesn't have to BTW, anything Windows sucks.

Are you talking about where the exhaust pipe gets fatter, approximately under the front passenger seat? Is that the resonator? I asked the same question on another thread, if anyone had just removed the resonator, since it has been established that the boxes at the end of the exhaust pipe are the mufflers. I was thinking of doing this. Can you confirm what they are cutting off and then maybe post a sound video? Thank you

I always buy Apple cables to charge my phones. Sure, they cost more, but I have never has an issue. I did buy an iPhone charging cable that plugs into a power port, made by AT&T and never had any issues. Also, I purchased two USB cables for the iPhone, from Best Buy. They are white. But when the phone is charging, blue lights in the center of the cable come on, blinking on and off towards the phone to indicate charging, A little light show at night, and they match the blue lights on the center stack.

I don't drive it so the conditioner can soak into leather. Every vehicle that I have owned had leather, and these wear marks always showed up. The only vehicle that actually cracked was a 1999 Grand Cherokee. My Liberty Renegade never cracked, nor did my Jeep Commander, nor my Nitro. Maybe the way I treat my seats was the deciding factor that the leather did not actually crack.