OhareFred

No the entire cost was not there. It was over $400 in timing belt related parts (belt, tensioners, pullies,etc.) and about $230 in labor fees. I know I was quoted around $1,100 if I paid for both the timing belt and water pump out of pocket, so I saved a bit. The 09’s had a free lifetime power train from FCA because it was the first year model. Every 5 year I take it to the dealer for an inspection and it stays in effect. Original owners only.

OK. Now the 2 amps makes sense. That’s not the only ground, there is another before that. have tried pulling the radio/Uconnect/handsfree fuse then checking your draw? Radio not shutting down is a known issue.

You left the negative cable off the battery and got a 2 amp drain??? Or did you disconnect the remote location neg cable? The jump start location.....

Just got my 09 back from Fields CDJR in Glenview,IL. Took it in because getting close to 100k miles and needed to have the timing belt changed (3.5 V6) and was due for an oil change. Dropped it off on Tuesday AM (was given one of their loaners to use). Wednesday got a call, water pump was leaking. Since the WP is covered under my Powertrain Warranty, they ordered it and was fixing it. Thursday about 10am got a call, finished. Went to pick it up, total bill was just under $650. Oil change was covered under my maintenance contract and labor charge for the timing belt was deaply discounted, only paid for the actual time to change the belt,tensioner,etc. not getting to it or putting it back together. car runs like the day I got it. It was cleaned inside with a anti-viral agent. Was raining out so didn’t care the car wash was closed. You won’t believe it but I HAVE NOTHING TO COMPLAIN ABOUT!! ????

Might need a new door handle assembly or button portion.

I use purple stuff year round on my 09. Never had any issue

Broken wire, bad actuator, any number of things. Does it work with the fob?

Can you try to recover your cost for the cat? I know when the dealer replaced my heater hoses they said it wasn’t covered but it was. I sent the receipt to the warranty company and got back all but $100, which is my deductible. Is your mechanic a Certified Repair Facility? Did you buy the car at a dealer or private party? Were there any maintenance records? Did you get a car fax report? Is there only 1 CDJR Dealer you can get to? If something was hidden from you you may have legal recourse, but it may be more costly than it’s worth. You never did say what you were trying to get FCA to do. And no, you can’t get COVID over the phone, but when the call center usually has 100 call takers and now has 50, working from home, your lucky the call was answered. You think FCA is bad, wait till you try UConnect!

What did you ask from them? Not sure if you heard, but there is a pandemic going on. How long have you owned the piece of crap? The car is 8 years old, so very possibly no warranty, (mine is a 09 I bought in 08) unless you have a lifetime warranty it’s going to cost to fix. Hell, I have a Lifetime MaxCare and FCA Powertrain warranties, I still have to pay for a new timing belt tomorrow (Around $800 US). Did you want the dealer to fix it for free? It sounds like your guessing and throwing expensive parts at it and upset because it’s not fixed. You need to find a mechanic that specializes in newer car electronics to track it down. It won’t be cheap, but they should be able to find it. Or trade it in for a different car...

I know in my 18 Cherokee the Nav was activated by me with a code I purchased. It says so right on the build sheet “see your dealer for Nav activation “. Check the build sheet on your journey. Create an account at ,Mopar.com, put in your vin, all kinds of useful information.

Could have an air bubble in it as well...

Doesn’t Carvana have a 7 day return policy?

My guesses would be: 1: low radiator fluid (check the plastic overflow) 2: stuck thermostat 3: bad water pump (internal, PIA) 4: blown head gasket a bad heater core Won’t give heat, but won’t cause overheating either....let us know

Or replace the factory radio with an aftermarket...

I used a spray battery terminal protective product when I swapped mine out 3 years ago. Didn’t touch the factory batty until then (got my car July 08). Haven’t touched the replacement since putting it in. Zero issues. With sealed batteries you shouldn’t have to do much.

Has the timing belt been done yet? Due at 100 K

Check the manufactures website. Should list what works with what...

Mine had a vibration when stopped at red lights. All 3 were bad. Maybe around 80k miles. Have them checked.

Trans fluid is a good idea. Fuel rail cleaner is bs(as far as I’m concerned) I paid around $200 for my trans service as I recall. Look in your owners manual. If it’s not listed, don’t do it...

Thank you for the info! As stated above, have it scanned for the engine code. Just because the light isn’t on does not mean it isn’t stored. Get the EXACT code when it’s read and let us know. ?

Isn’t there something in the owners manual about moving a fuse to have it on all the time, or is that in my Cherokee?

You need to give us ALOT more information like engine, fwd/awd, mileage, have you had it since new or did you get it used, what maintenance records do you have, any check engine lights,etc. What you describe has nothing to do with it being an suv, car, pickup, etc. it’s likely a transmission issue.....

Sounds like your heater core. If you are going to replace it yourself look at the UTube short cuts Your engine won’t run hot until your pretty low, long after no heat.

Well, if your not losing fluid under the car, near the firewall, I would venture to guess maybe the rear heater core is plugged or air locked. Might want to try a radiator shop or the dealer.

Only 1 place for coolant level- well two actually- the radiator and the plastic reservoir. Make sure both are at the full levels.