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Yep a pain to get at , I'm on the 3rd battery as well and hopefully the last. They have gone up in price but last time I went to Costco bought a new one. A few weeks later I took the core in to a different Costco and they prorated the battery and I got 25% of the battery cost back. Like you said at least it did it while you were close to help and not out of town.

No, but I'm sure with a battery disconnect they did a soft reset. I did clear codes with my scanner but the real underlying problem here was the alternator .I assume it was intermittenly spitting out high voltage and trigerring all the lights/codes. Still running fine.

This almost describes exactly what I had recently with my 2013. And it was the alternator putting out high voltage .Scan the vehicle for codes and see what it says.There will be codes. Read this thread and see https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/18200-tipm-or-pcm/

Sounds like the alternator.Is the battery light on as well?

ok, I'm calling this resolved with an alternator replacement.I am glad though that I cleaned up all the ground connections and battery terminals (also at the TIPM)

I'd agree but there is alot of discussion on the 3.6l alternators.Some vehicle had recalls on them and others didn't.I believe the transverse mounted engines didn't get recalled but there seem to be alot of failures even in those vehicles. Oh well, if that fixes it I'm ok with that .Hoping to get another couple of years out of the Journey. Overall I've had reasonable luck with it and quite enjoy the Journey.

So an update.Still early days in without a lot of driving but I threw an alternator in again last week. Some short trips but so far the problem has not reoccurred. The troubleshooter in me ( I'm an electronic technician) tells me that should be the problem. With high voltage codes my mind is wrapped with the alternator is the one producing the high voltage .I know the pcm is supposed to control it but the voltage comes from the alternator.Will update again later this eek, some longer trips coming up that should be the deciding factor if it's fixed or not. When I picked up the alternator , I talked to a guy there who is a mechanic and he seemed convinced with what I told him with codes that that should be the fix. By the way , I screwed up the plastic bleeder screw when bleeding after putting the rad hose back on. Pro tip there is a brass Dorman bleeder screw available that is much sturdier.

Well that didn't fix it. Drove it 30-35 minutes to my son's no problems. 20 minutes into the return and it was back.

So just an update, took the wheel off on Saturday and went to work on the battery terminal connections including the battery sensor . Not 100% sure yet but drove the vehicle Tuesday and Wednesday (not far but usually far enough) and the problem has not reared its ugly head again.The battery terminals were a little cruddy but the sensor connection I didn't like the look of it. Will take for a longer spin this Saturday that should be the true test.

Thanks Dean, on my list tomorrow is to check the battery terminal connections as like I said it was replaced 3-4 months ago. Tonight it did a dash reset (radio blanked and restarted, no other lights like abs etc came on) and then later the battery symbol came on with nothing else.

I'm really starting to lean towards it being the alternator. Again.

So I have had a few times in the last few months where I got a system high voltage code, disappears after restarting the vehicle.Happened once in a while. Now pretty consistently getting dash lights and messages as well as the battery symbol. As well the radio usually reboots and then comes back. Sometimes just the battery light but other times I get ABS, Brake and Traction control as well as a message that Parking assist is not available. Car seems to be running fine other than sometimes looking like a Christmas tree. Usually when it "calms down" it just leaves the battery light on until the next time the other lights can come back on. Today it did a radio reset and battery light and the 2 codes I pulled were a P0563 System Voltage High and a P063A Generator Voltage Sense circuit. Have cleaned up the grounds on both strut towers and the voltage connection at the TIPM. Any ideas? Car has 68k miles 3.6L and has had alternator replaced before , battery was replaced about 2-3 months ago.

Is there not a code stored? I have mentioned this before but the last time my battery light came on (actually the last 2 times) it was a high voltage warning code.

Have you scanned the vehicle and gotten a code?

Be nice to see the code. Last time my light came on it was for overvoltage.

I would also check the grounds on the strut towers for corrosion.

Brilliant post to a 10 year old thread, thanks Helen!

Sorry for the late reply, i cleared the codes with my obd scan tool. Been fine since.

Yes this is my second battery change. This time the battery was around 8V or so. Tried to jump it but no go and then the climate fan wouldn't shut off either. Had to pull the power to stop it so I think things just got a little scrambled from the low voltage.Anyway all good since.

I also have a 2013 that I just replaced the battery about 2 weeks ago. After the battery was changed it started fine but I had codes coming up regarding the accelerator pedal position and 1 other .Car ran but absolutely not much power, running a little rough and couldn't get up a big hill.Took it home put the scanner on and cleared the codes.Problem solved.I think that even just changing the battery put some glitches into the computer and it needed to reset them to run properly again. Do you have any warnings on the dash?

That's been mentioned before.There is definitely corrosion that gets on those grounds, a removal and cleanup does wonders.

The one on the right side of the cabin filter is the recirculate actautor.That's the one that causes fogging when it gets stuck in recirculate mode.

Did you ever get this done?

You mean this ? It's beside the headlight switch,

Yep ground connections under the hood a great place to start.