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Just installed a Trailer Hitch on my 2011


NavalLacrosse

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Just installed the trailer hitch (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QMF1HCW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on my new-to-me dodge journey.

 

Install took me, and my Dad, and about 2 hours of actual hands-on work. It would have taken less if there wasn't a mountain of sand in hollow frame that I needed to clear away.

 

All in all, I'm impressed. It was inexpensive, and fairly east to install, even with just a floor jack, and basic tools.59de3bb19cbf4_20171010_2118511.thumb.jpg.d6ecd385b55a4819e62b1110007b68da.jpg

59de3bd205dee_20171010_2119151.thumb.jpg.4eb633ea119defb58c12c38d52df2743.jpg

Appearance-wise, It doesn't stick out farther than the rear bumper, and is above the mufflers, meaning it's discrete, but also not totally hidden. I'd recommend this to anyone.

Edited by NavalLacrosse
typo fix
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Thanks for the compliment, Armando. I did not get the harness- and thanks for the re-torque reminder. 

 

I don't plan on towing with it, at least for a while. I'm using it for bike racks, and as a back-up curb proximity sensor.

 

As far as the harness, there is a wiring harness coming from somewhere in the car, and it just ends/is plugged right next the trailer hitch. If i just buy the adapter, car I just plug it in that plug, and start haulin'? Do you know if there is any computer re-programming nonsense that needs to take place? I've got the LED taillights; is over amping the fuses a possibility with a mid size box trailer?. Are these questions I could easily answer up with a quick search?(yes). haha

Edited by NavalLacrosse
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yes you will have to the dealership add the sales code and activate it and that will cost you $$ contact your dealer for the cost or bypass all that and go with the aftermarket wiring harness that is what ill do if i ever need it

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  • 2 months later...

Hey I installed this hitch too last summer to carry bikes. I'm about to redo the job because i'm planning to tow around 2000lbs with it and I didn't have a torque wrench. How did you remove the muffler rubber !? I had a lot of difficulties getting them out off the hook. Also did you have any issues with the length of the screws !? I don't know why but some are not getting out enough from the frame to put the nut and torque them properly !

 

Thank you.

 

Sylvain

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Sylvian, I'll try and address your questions one at a time: I've included what photos I've got on my phone from the install.

Muffler Rubber, HOW I LOATH MUFFLER RUBBER.... (Side note, I should add that to the "What really grinds my gears" Topic):
Do you have penetrating oil? That's what I should have used, but I ended up with (WD-40 brand?) Silicone spray (https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-300014-Specialist-Resistant-Lubricant/dp/B0083V8K0U/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1515528930&sr=8-5&keywords=silicone+spray)

I'd recommend liquid wrench deep penetrating oil if I was to do it again. Apply a liberally as possible, wiggle the rubber, spray, wiggle. Then use a combination of a sizable pry-bar and a rubber mallet for fulcrum to get leverage, and pick a direction (top hook, or bottom hook; pick one you can get good leverage on) and just muscle it off. lubricate both sides frequently... don't forget to support that pipe.

 

I had not a single problem with the kit at all. All bolt fit perfectly.
I have some thoughts on what may be causing your problems, I'll start with dumb/obvious first:

Are you sure the bolts are the same length? there are six total, and two were shorter than the other four....

Did you get the bolts to 'fall into' the square slots in the metal rectangular-tabs that go in the frame?

(this one I had a problem with) Did you clean the derbies out of the hollow frame with a metal brush, or compressed air? maybe there is a pebble in there propping up the metal rectangular-tab.

Did you get two on and two barely on? Maybe your hitch was manufactured twisted. Mine was a little, but even so i was able to hand-thread all four nuts onto the four bolts with about half an inch of thread exposed below the hitch on every bolt. see the photo. 

Worse comes to worse, just buy longer screws with the square head/key to slot into the rectangular frame-tab.

 

(Look here in the following link; these are the bolts, installed without the hitch, with the rectangle tabs in the hollow frame. There is about 0.75-1.0 inch out the bottom on these two. basically the same excess on the third (Not pictured)

https://imgur.com/EsLGcng

 

Hope this helps!

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  • 3 months later...

Thank You Naval, I'll soon be redoing this and adding 4 pins for the trailer light. I though all the bolts were the same size ..... maybe that's what I did wrong or I'll just buy 4 longer screws. I do have pentrating oïl and that's what I did, using a pry bar with leverage but on YouTube it seems so easy with some sort of clamps. Anyway I'll rent a lift to do it this time. Now I'm about to change all 6 knuckle bushings and the 2 rear shocks so I'll be a bit busy.

 

Bushings is not fun to do !!, I removed the knuckle twice and these fuckers won't move, I'll have to burn them off, man was hoping not to play with fire. If it can stop raining ......

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It's good that you got that sand cleared out from your frame.  It can get wet and stay wet and rot out your frame and floor.

 

I had some in the back fender (small hole in fender wheel well) of my Accord and it rotted out the floor and bottom of the car.  I had it all cleaned out and the metal cut out and replace.

 

It is not so easy trying to fix a frame.

 

We have a hitch on our Journey, but it was there and wired when we bought it.  Great to have.  I actually have another UHaul trailor hitch that fits the 2009- 2013 Journey in my barn.  I picked it up from a guy who was throwing it out since he no longer had a Journey.  I will probably sell it for 50 bucks sometime.  It is just stuck in my way right now.

 

mechanical-idiot

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