PTU Fluid Change D.I.Y.

[John/Horace]

One section of intake manifold needs to be removed that is close to back of  engine compartment. You will then see  vent hose.

 

Won’t show up on engine             compartment pics that I’ve seen.

 

[John/Horace]

It’s air intake throttle body with plastic shroud leading to air filter. Little finicky with all plastic parts.

[snosrap]

ok thanks i will take that part off and look again will let you know if I find and do the job.. I'll try and take a pic if I can with it off

 

[snosrap]

As shown in picture one the yellow box highlighted is part to be removed.

 

Step 1 remove engine cover, air fliter cover, air filter and air filter box then have to remove next piece of intake which is held by a hose clamp once removed should look like picture 2

 

As shown in picture 3 with the yellow circle the green cap is the vent tube. Remove cap I found easiest to remove vent tube from metal bracket used a flat screwdriver. Found easier that way then remove cap from tube, again had to use a flat screwdriver to losen hose from cap. Also you may notice that 2 rubber hoses were disconnected I thought I had to remove more but was not needed.

 

As shown in pic 4 is the syringe style transfer pump. Has a max capacity of 200mL ( in Canada) 

 

I then added 4 full tube with a total of 800ml of fluid but in the process I would pump about 50 mil then remove syringe to burp air so pressure dont build. Do this until all 800 ml is added and re install parts. 

 

Found best to put car on ramps first and made sure I could remove vent cap before draining. My fluid was really dirty im sure it was original with 185km on the car. 

Edited May 2, 2020 by snosrap
added more info

[snosrap]

forgot to say after remove air box and filter have to remove next piece of intake which is held by a hose clamp

[John/Horace]

Glad you got it done. I need to do this again soon on mine. Some times a bit of a flush helps a little too. As long as there is no large particles of metal in the oil you should be fine. I used the Mopar stuff last time, close to after market price.

[TopperHarley]

On 4/30/2020 at 1:47 PM, 14WhiteRTRallye said:

 

Great Video thanks

[TopperHarley]

On 5/2/2020 at 12:28 PM, snosrap said:

As shown in picture one the yellow box highlighted is part to be removed.

 

Step 1 remove engine cover, air fliter cover, air filter and air filter box then have to remove next piece of intake which is held by a hose clamp once removed should look like picture 2

 

As shown in picture 3 with the yellow circle the green cap is the vent tube. Remove cap I found easiest to remove vent tube from metal bracket used a flat screwdriver. Found easier that way then remove cap from tube, again had to use a flat screwdriver to losen hose from cap. Also you may notice that 2 rubber hoses were disconnected I thought I had to remove more but was not needed.

 

As shown in pic 4 is the syringe style transfer pump. Has a max capacity of 200mL ( in Canada) 

 

I then added 4 full tube with a total of 800ml of fluid but in the process I would pump about 50 mil then remove syringe to burp air so pressure dont build. Do this until all 800 ml is added and re install parts. 

 

Found best to put car on ramps first and made sure I could remove vent cap before draining. My fluid was really dirty im sure it was original with 185km on the car. 

 

 

 

Great Write up ! Thanks

[mike35z]

Thanks to the great information for changing the PTU fluid.  I was under my Journey a couple times trying to figure out how to drain and fill the fluid.  Went to Valvoline oil change and they told me they could not service the PTU.  They did change the rear axle fluid.  The dealer here in Ohio wants 160.00 to change the PTU fluid which seems a bit high to me.  I think I can do it myself utilizing the vent tube as shown.  Thank you so much for posting the pics here.  It looks like the lower drain hex head is not too bad to get too.  I was so glad to see a very clever person figured out how to fill this fluid much easier then the recommended procedure.  I would not be surprised if some Dodge dealers actually use the vent tube method since it is considerably easier to get to then the location of the PTU fill plug.   Thanks to John/Horace, and snosrap for posting the procedure, and taking photos.    

[mike35z]

I am updating the post I made regarding the PTU oil change.  It was easy to drain the fluid from the drain plug.  The heat shield was overlapping the drain plug by about 1/4 inch.  It was easy to bend back the heat shield to drain the oil.  I used the vent tube to fill the PTU.  The green cap is easily removed by using a small screwdriver to pull it out of the rubber vent hose.  I used the hand pump as shown in the previous post.  It took some time.  After every 30 to 50 ml of oil it would bubble up out of the tube.  I assume the air pressure needs to equalize inside the PTU gear box.  I put rags around the vent tube to help soak up the oil that bubbled up.  It took about an hour to fill the fluid.  Need to go very slow with it.  This method works but you need to take your time.  My Dodge Journey is a 2013 with 120,000 miles.  The oil was never changed in the PTU by the previous owner.  The gear oil drained was black.  It had a slight smell to it.  It is recommend to change this oil at 60,000 miles.  I am very happy i got it changed using this method. I Am going to change it again since the drained oil was so dark.  Will probably do it before Winter.  Hope this post helps anyone that wants to change their PTU oil.  

[kejno]

On 3/10/2020 at 11:52 PM, kodiak08 said:

The thread pitch for the PTU drain plug is M20x1.5

This information is wrong. I bought drain plug of that size and it is too small. I measured original plug and it is M22x1.5. I had to go vent way...

 

[humansoul]

Just reviving this thread. I have 125000km on my 2014 Dodge Journey RT. Last year, I inquired about the PTU service at my local dealership, they were actually not aware that this was a required service for around this amount of kms and I was confused if I was in the wrong for inquiring about it(as stated in my manual). When they asked one of the mechanics to comment, they stated that it's work extensive and usually is not replaced unless necessary - is this true? It's not talked about here often aside from the DIY threads. On a side note, I also have to have the differential and axle seal replaced.

 

My question is - is the PTU a necessary service item that I should get done? I plan to try and drive the DJ until 200km and I'm wondering if I should just forego the service. Would the PTU service make sense to coincide with the differential and axle replacement?

 

Thank you in advance!

[John/Horace]

Great questions. Odd having to teach dealership about their vehicles, so I wouldn’t have them change it.

 

Like the rear diff, if the seals fail then the bearings and gears inside will wear out if you run it out of oil.  The ptu has only about 3/4 of a quart of oil, no filter but a magnetic drain plug that needs to be cleaned off.  For a quart of syn 75w90 gear oil and a half an hour labor IMO it’s not worth ignoring it. Dirty oil can accelerate seal wear.

 

My wife’s Journey is just at 200k with one ptu service (next one in spring) and rear diff seals replaced, few other things.

Replacing the ptu if it fails would be very pricy I imagine. Service records for used cars can be helpful; I never buy used cars without very detailed service records. The ptu paper trail could help for resale down the road. 

Its important to keep an eye out for drips on the driveway when the car gets older and investigating when they occur.

Sounds like you are on top of things.

Edited February 3, 2021 by John/Horace

[deejizzle]

adding to what humansoul got from the dealerships: not sure if you are in SW ON dealing with a specific dealership group... but when i asked this i got a similar answer. needless to say as the wise john horace says.. just walk away from that dealership. you shouldnt have to teach them maintenance schedules on their own vehicles. 

 

For context: i have done the rtu at the dealership but not the ptu.. no issues so far @ 250ks, but i plan to tackle this myself using this thread and my VAG friend mechanic. seems easy enough and doing this "mod" only makes it easier going down the road to the point where i might add it to my yearly or every other year maintenance schedule.

[humansoul]

Thanks @John/Horace and @deejizzle! I don't frequent the site as much, but came upon a thread where they mentioned their PTU failed, costing them an $1800 replacement. So I think it's fair to say that maintenance would outweigh the ignorance. I've also shopped around, outside from my dealership, for the Rear Diff and PTU service and was quoted 2x cheaper than the dealership. I also found some peace of mind that they were quite knowledgable about the entire service and even doubted the axle seal leak diagnostic and did not want to charge me for a replacement until they really saw what was going on. I'm outside of warranty period at this point and with the lackluster results from my dealership and will likely take my services elsewhere.

                                                                        

@deejizzle I'm in Durham region to be exact.  

 

[mike35z]

The transmission on my 2013 Dodge Journey was shifting harsh between second and third gear. ( shifting too fast).  I went to dealership and did the transmission service.  They said they replaced 2.5 quarts of transmission fluid and the internal filter.  I drove the auto for a month but still the gears were shifting too fast, like a gear slam.  I decided to change the fluid again myself and used a pump and removed about 2 quarts of fluid.  I drove the car a month, then did it again.  So this is equivalent to about 4 quarts of transmission fluid change out.  After one week the shifting improved considerably.  After 4 months the vehicle shifts 90 percent better.  I think the fluid change was all it needed.  I wanted to do a fluid flush but decided to see how this 4 quart changeout did.  New fluid did make a change.  Getting 26.5 mpg on freeway, and engine running great.  I purchased this Journey with 118,000 miles on it.  The previous owner only did the required oil changes I was told.  None of the other preventative maintenance was done. All the fluids were dark and worn out.  I think Dodge should make it mandatory to change the PTU fluid, rear differential, and transmission at the recommended intervals in order to maintain any warranty.   Most automobile owners have no clue how their engine operates and how important preventative  maintenance is.  My feeling is if you cannot locate your oil dip stick, your battery, and the drive belts, and know how to change a tire you should not be operating a powered vehicle.  

[Jonathan226]

Hello !

 

Thank you guys for those guides, it helps me a lot in changing ptu fluid. I also have to, because my freemont (is built on same platform as journey) has already 210xxx kms on counter and it still runs on fluid from factory... I live in central Europe and Mopar 75w90 1L is pretty pricey here. I wanted to ask if fluid for PTU must have LSD additives or not. I can't find anywhere if Mopar's fluid does contain those additives. Asking, because i'm worried about outcome of running standard 75w90 fully syntetic oil without aditives if there is clutch pack in ptu.

[John/Horace]

It’s just straight oil no clutches. No  LSD additives at all. Just buy a good quality gear oil.

[Jonathan226]

On 20. 3. 2021 at 4:27 PM, John/Horace said:

It’s just straight oil no clutches. No  LSD additives at all. Just buy a good quality gear oil.

Alright, thank you for responding ! I've already replaced old fluid with Motul gear 300 LS, it runs fine. Old fluid was dark brown, almost black. Luckily there were not any metal shavings or pieces on magnet.
Also I've contacted Mopar official distributor and asked them about MS-9763 (Mopar 75W-90) and they've said that it doesn't contain LS additives.

[Greatful]

Just changed the PTU oil, with thanks to you guys.  Just a few suggestions to make things maybe a little easier from what I found:

• Don't have to remove the air filter housing; just remove the connection between the air filter housing and the manifold by unscrewing the two gear clamps.  (you will have to disconnect the plastic clips that hold the vacuum hoses, two of them.
• The vent cap on the vent tube from the PTU is easily removed using a small pliers and grab the vent cap at the base and twist and pull it out.
• Heat the oil in to about 120 - 130 F to reduce the viscosity of the oil for easier pouring....(put the oil container in a pan and pour hot water at about 120F into the pan.  Keep the oil jug in the hot water bath)
• Connect clear plastic tubing over the top of the rubber vent hose.  Use a 1/2" ID tubing; dip the end in hot water for a few seconds and then fling out any water and push tubing over the end of the vent hose.  On the other end of the tubing push into the plastic tubing a long thin transmission oil funnel. (I held up the funnel using a string to help)
• Get another piece of longer plastic tubing, "1/4 OD, to act as a straw.  After you pour some warm oil into the funnel, insert the straw into the funnel so that it reaches all the way just down into the rubber vent hose.  Start blowing bubbles.....this introduces air and helps burp the air out of the vent hose, and the oil goes down a lot faster.

Hope this helps.

 

God accomplishes everything we do!

[nilohigh]

On 4/24/2021 at 5:59 AM, Greatful said:

Just changed the PTU oil, with thanks to you guys.  Just a few suggestions to make things maybe a little easier from what I found:

• Don't have to remove the air filter housing; just remove the connection between the air filter housing and the manifold by unscrewing the two gear clamps.  (you will have to disconnect the plastic clips that hold the vacuum hoses, two of them.
• The vent cap on the vent tube from the PTU is easily removed using a small pliers and grab the vent cap at the base and twist and pull it out.
• Heat the oil in to about 120 - 130 F to reduce the viscosity of the oil for easier pouring....(put the oil container in a pan and pour hot water at about 120F into the pan.  Keep the oil jug in the hot water bath)
• Connect clear plastic tubing over the top of the rubber vent hose.  Use a 1/2" ID tubing; dip the end in hot water for a few seconds and then fling out any water and push tubing over the end of the vent hose.  On the other end of the tubing push into the plastic tubing a long thin transmission oil funnel. (I held up the funnel using a string to help)
• Get another piece of longer plastic tubing, "1/4 OD, to act as a straw.  After you pour some warm oil into the funnel, insert the straw into the funnel so that it reaches all the way just down into the rubber vent hose.  Start blowing bubbles.....this introduces air and helps burp the air out of the vent hose, and the oil goes down a lot faster.

Hope this helps.

 

God accomplishes everything we do!

 

I finally decided to change the ptu fluid on my girlfriend's 2018 Journey after reading the whole thread. I'm not the most car-savvy person, so I wanted to make sure I knew the entire process before starting. This tip about the tubing is probably the best piece of advice on this thread. I used one foot of the 1/2" ID and two feet of the 1/4" OD. I would not recommend using anything shorter than this. I got the smaller hose all the way up until the start of the black hose.

 

The warm oil went down pretty slow, so I realized that, at the risk of potentially tasting what ptu fluid tastes like, alternating between positive and negative pressure on the "straw" helps the oil go down even faster. BUT, if you are able, shove the small tube into the black vent hose. Then, slowly apply negative pressure (making sure to let go before you swallow oil) and watch the oil from the large tube drain much more quickly. This pulls (mostly air but a little oil) up the straw, which is enough to make the oil fall down into the vent hose.

 

Also, I wasn't able to get to the ptu vent without removing the filter housing. It's four 8mm bolts, so it's not too complicated.

 

As for service intervals, her car is at 64k miles (103k km), and the ptu fluid was brown. It definitely wasn't clear, but it looked much, much better than the rear diff which was pitch black at 62k (I flushed it again at 63k to get even more crud out). I imagine I will start changing the rear diff fluid every 20-30k miles, but the PTU fluid should be ok for another 60k.

[nilohigh]

As an update, I checked the vent cap (the white piece with the green on top) after about 500 miles or so, and removed it with barely any force. Since it didn't go back to being hard to pull off as it was before it was removed, I bought the smallest hose clamp I could find, tightened it to almost tight enough, trimmed and sanded the excess clamp, placed the hose clamp, and used a long socket of the right size to tighten it down, without a ratchet. It probably wouldn't have fallen off, but I didn't want to risk it. 

[davidlb512]

Here is the diagram, and part #'s, for the rear differential and viscous clutch assembly. Hopefully they help someone out.

[davidlb512]

Here is the diagram, and part #'s, for the PTU. Hopefully they help someone out.

[davidlb512]

I am putting together a plug for our PTU, that will be easier for others to put together, and requires no machine work, milling, tapping, etc. I have ordered an M22x1.5 thread male-to-1/4" female pipe thread adapter, and will be putting a grease zerk in the 1/4" pipe thread end. I will take the entire thing out of the PTU, to drain the fluid, and reinstall, and use the grease zerk to fill the PTU with 75w90 synthetic gear oil. I will add a plastic grease zerk cap, to cover, and protect, the grease zerk. I will come back here with pictures, after the adapter has arrived, and I put it together. This should be a cheap, and easy, way to streamline everyone's ability to perform routine maintenance on their PTU. I will also add the part #'s for the adapter, grease zerk, and cap, that I use, after I confirm that they perform the function that I am hoping. Wish me luck guys!