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Maintenance at 100,000 kilometers


Mayellah

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Hey,
My Journey just hit 104,000kms and it was suggested I get the spark plugs changed ( PCV ) with a fuel induction service.
I would be going in for a routine oil change and tire rotation.
1) Do I need to do this? How much should it cost me? ( Please specify USD or CAD when stating a price )

Also, my alignment is off, and I was told that there are no adjustment options and that the whole alignment needs to be changed? What the heck is that about?
Any details and info is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!!!

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Have you consulted your owner's manual?  That will tell you everything you need to know about the maintenance schedule and what items are required based on intervals.

 

https://carmanuals2.com/dodge/journey-2011-owner-s-manual-31045

 

As for the alignment check - did they actually put it on an alignment rack and give you a readout of the current measurements?  If not, how could they possibly know it's out of alignment (unless it's horrifically out of alignment)?

Edited by bfurth
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i am getting close to 100 k and my local dealership quoted me plugs $89 for 6 plugs labor $210. coolant flush $179 and didnt quote me for a transmission service but my lat one that i did at 60 k was about $180 plus tax on all.... also.... yes the upper rear control arms are NON adjustable the lower ones are adj as is the whole front end is adj as well. i know this as my upper rear were bad and i had them replaced with aftermarket adj control arms about $80 for 2 plus install about $150 also 4 wheel alignment cost about $95. most places i bought a lifetime deal from quick lane (they are owned by ford dealers)cost me $172  every time i have my oil changed and tires rotated at 6 k i have the alignment checked   USA prices and also i would skip the fuel induction service unless you are having problems , i run some chevron fuel inj cleaner thur my tank about 2 times a yr

 

Edited by 2late4u
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1 minute ago, 2late4u said:

see my above post yes your upper rear control arms are out of spec (camber) NON adjustable you can just replacing them with oem parts but do like i did with aftermarket adj ones way better

They quoted me over $1750.... 
Another reason I'm trying to educate myself on the cost of repairs prior to being screwed over.... 
Thanks

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  • ACDelco 45K0225 Professional Rear Upper Suspension Control Arm
Click image to open expanded view
 
 

ACDelco 45K0225 Professional Rear Upper Suspension Control Arm

by ACDelco
 
 
 
 
 

Price: $90.43 & FREE Shipping. Details  can be found cheaper this is amazon
 i paid about $160 for both sides from quick lane they gave me a lifetime warranty on the parts as well
Edited by 2late4u
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11 minutes ago, Mayellah said:

@bfurth : Yes... The rear is off, but they said that there are no adjustments and the whole thing needs to be replaced $$$. My tires wear on the outer edge, just in the bck, so I''ll be rotating them more often now, for "even wear"... 

that is what mine started doing as well the camber is off

 

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1 minute ago, 2late4u said:

that is what mine started doing as well the camber is off

 

FAK... I just dropped close to $3000 on front rotors, pads & callipers. Rear resonator, front right axl, coolant gasket, windshield, oil, filter and safety inspection ( For registration purposes moving provinces... ) 

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At the very least, learn to do brakes yourself.  There's no reason to touch the calipers unless they're leaking or fully seized.  A 4 corner pad and rotor replacement can be done for $200 USD on the 2011, I don't think it's much more for later versions with the bigger brakes, plus the cost of obtaining appropriate tools if you don't already have them (socket set, jack, stands, wheel chocks, torque wrench, caliper wind back set - combined, you're looking at anywhere from $100 plus renting/borrowing what you need just for that job, $250 if you buy everything, and as much as you want if you buy it from a truck).  Throw in an extra $10 for some sand paper (clean up the surface of the wheel hubs when you change rotors), anti-seize (makes removing the rotor the next time MUCH easier), and some brake grease (lubricate the slide pins - I've had friends with brake problems that were entirely due to the fact that the slide pins were bone dry), you could do the whole thing yourself in an afternoon for under $500 USD.  The next time you'd have to do it, it's only $200, and under $100 if you catch the pads before they wear out.  The way the older models (pre-2012) chew though brakes (single piston front caliper is the tell for the smaller brakes), you should learn to do it yourself.  There are plenty of threads on this topic on this board (and I think one or two where I've posted the torque specs for the associated bolts).

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