Bill Adams Posted June 23, 2019 Report Share Posted June 23, 2019 OK. long story. 2012, Journey SXT 6cyl, single piston front caliper, 104K miles. started getting ABS, Skid, and cruise wouldn’t turn on. Pedal was soft. Of course, I did no research. been a while since pads were replaced, they looked pretty thin, so I started with pads all around. while replacing pads, discovered frozen left rear caliper bracket. So it got two rear calipers with brackets. And since the pedal seemed soft, a nice new master cyl. Meanwhile, some research tells me, the original symptoms are screaming... “ABS Wheel sensor” A pair of front ones are on order. ABS fuse is pulled. Because the pedal kicks with it in. Right now my question is... During test drive, It brakes, but not well. Have to push hard on the pedal to get braking. Brake alarm is on. Vacuum booster test shows good. I understand it should brake normally with the ABS fuse pulled. My question is, is there something else I need to fix while I wait for the wheel sensors? Or is this normal with the ABS fuse pulled? And, I read somewhere, “If cruise control doesn’t work, it’s a front wheel speed sensor.” True or not? Thanks in Advanced. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted June 23, 2019 Report Share Posted June 23, 2019 I just had a frt right side wheel speed sensor replaced, abs light and etc light on and cruise wont work if you have these lights on, no problems with my brake pedal or hard stopping. did you bleed all for brakes lines in the correct fashion? y sensor and labor at the dealership was around $65 i never removed the abs fuse pulled you shouldn't have to do this if a wheel speed senor goes bad as the brakes are suppose to revert to regular braking without the anti-skid of the abs...good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Adams Posted June 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2019 Thanks 2Late. I pulled the ABS fuse to eliminate the ABS from the equation. I believe everything is bled properly and in the right order. But that is one of my worries at the moment. I may wind up taking it to a shop, to be bled again, after I get the wheel sensors replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhareFred Posted June 24, 2019 Report Share Posted June 24, 2019 Did you use a computer/special tool when bleeding? The ABS pump must run when bleeding brakes now a days..... jkeaton 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Adams Posted June 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2019 That may explain the jerking when the ABS fuse is in. OhareFred 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Adams Posted July 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2019 (edited) Ok, an update. Still not right. I got both front wheel sensors in. Replaced the ABS fuse. no ABS light, or skid light on dash big red BRAKE light is on symptoms now, when breaking it seems like the ABS is activating even under medium braking. Pedal jerks and vibrates. I took it to a shop that SAID they do ABS. they read codes then told me “You have to take it to a shop that does ABS.” coo21-02 Booster c0020-16 ABS pump C0034-62 Right wheel speed (which I just replaced, ) p258b vacuum pump At least they only charged me $20. I’m thinking vacuum pump. And now, the two shops I called are swamped with people getting repairs, incase they have to evacuate fro Barry. Edited July 10, 2019 by Bill Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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