2015 Journey no power at all. Zero.

[nes593]

Hi, Yesterday went into gas station for gas. Turned off car and put gas. Went back in car and no power at all. Zero. Nothing came on. No dash, no beeps no horn, nothing. Push to start of course nothing. The only thing on in the whole car was the off light on the push button. Tried jumping with two three sets of cables and two other cars including tow truck and nothing. I have had the 2015 Journey for two years and have not changed battery or anything. Please help. Thanks

[2late4u]

probally the battery if you can get it started go to a part store have them do a load check,if not pull your battery and take it down and check it but i would buy a high quality battery and go from there i have already replaced my 14 crossroad battery, no luck with mopar battery

[nes593]

Hi, Thanks for reply. Does a battery just stop like that? No warnings or indications that it could be faulty? I have to get the battery from underneath right? No chance of starting it as I have tried jumping it various times and no juice at all.  Thanks

 

[2late4u]

usually you have a little juice to let the lights go crazy or play the radio,but the first to suspect is the battery if oem then it is going on 4 yrs old,then next  after a new battery if it does start i would   have the alt checked to make sure it is charging, new cars suck the juice out of the batteries with all the electronic do-dads that they put on them now. thats why I said buy the best battery with the longest warranty as these are not the easiest to change. interstate is real good my daughter got one from cosco for her jeep the other day for around$100 ,i put in a Duracell  2 yrs ago from  batteries and bulbs around $110 3 yr/7 yr     check tur the forum section under batteries and charging post and read some of them to give you a heads up on what might can be wrong, there is also a battery temperature sensor that is built into the neg cable where it attaches to your battery post have been know to go bad....good luck and hope its just the battery

 

Edited July 17, 2019 by 2late4u

[larryl]

New cars all need a battery to run now not like the old days to just turn the starter motor one bad cell can be crippling 

[allen329]

did you check the voltage on battery is that providing 12V or not? and what when did you jump starter how was the sound when you clicked is the engine made some sound or not? other thing you can check the fuse on the circuit, there should be a fuse problem as well, i had similar issue with my truck which i used for 24 hour towing service so after spending few hours there was a fuse issue in that.

Edited September 3, 2019 by allen329

[PUlloa]

"Yesterday went into gas station for gas. Turned off car and put gas. Went back in car and no power at all. Zero. Nothing came on. No dash, no beeps no horn, nothing. Push to start of course nothing. The only thing on in the whole car was the off light on the push button."  Hi, did you find out what the problem was.  I had the exact same problem yesterday.  Battery was replaced about three months ago.  Any help for a starting point to fix problem would be great.  Thank you.

[5rebel9]

Last posting was 1 year ago and not by the OP.  One offering I can suggest as a newer member here is to check and make sure the gearshift is fully in park. Next step would be to get at the battery and make sure the cables to it are not loose. I've seen a number of times that "new" batteries posts are smaller in size than OE and don't let the terminal ends fully clamp on them. All it take is some kind of "jarring" and they will break connection, killing all power to the vehicle.

[NavalLacrosse]

Can you jump the car, PUIloa?

If the car is running, and you disconnect the jump-pack- does the car instantly die? if yes = check the alternator

Check that the connections didn't come loose. It might have (as 5Rebl9 said) maybe the connections got loose at the battery side.

Maybe the battery is shot. I had a new walmart battery die in 4 months. (I wasn't able to claim the warranty because the shop that installed the next one claimed the core charge...)

[Armando G]

This thread is destined not to be updated by the guys posting to get help. Can we tag them so they are ignored in the future? 

[5rebel9]

13 hours ago, Armando G said:

This thread is destined not to be updated by the guys posting to get help. Can we tag them so they are ignored in the future? 

Unfortunately, this happens on all forums. I participate on 5 other forums and there is not much that can be done about non updated postings by "members". Best thing is a rapid response to these type posts WITH the encouragement for them to "keep all UPDATED". 

I try to not reply to long dormant posts, unless I have constructive info of the problem discussed to help bring "closure" to the subject.

[Armando G]

8 hours ago, 5rebel9 said:

Unfortunately, this happens on all forums. I participate on 5 other forums and there is not much that can be done about non updated postings by "members". Best thing is a rapid response to these type posts WITH the encouragement for them to "keep all UPDATED". 

I try to not reply to long dormant posts, unless I have constructive info of the problem discussed to help bring "closure" to the subject.

 

Uhhhh... thanks ?

[JourneyTime]

Good afternoon!  So, i recently had this same problem.  Not sure if any other posts have been created for this wonderful Dodgey life, but here is the end result.  I own/drive a 2018 Dodge Journey v6.

 

I bought a replacement battery in December 2021.  Car went dark February 2022, no electrical at all.  I hooked up my jump box and jumper cables (not at the same time) and was able to get electrical components to turn on, but the car would not star.  Once the jump box timer ran out, back to no electrical at all.

 

Just got it back from the dealership today and was told a few things.  First the battery I bought from autozone, although the correct CCA and voltage, was the wrong battery group.  The 26-DL group is too small for the Journey.  Due to using a battery with a group size that is too small, it caused a short in the Power Intelligent Module and Body Controller Module.  Costly mistake and hopefully Autozone or O'Reilly's or whoever else updates their system, but it being all these years later, doesn't seem likely.

 

Okay, that is all.  I probably won't post again...we shall see.  Just wanted to bring closure to the long forgotten post.

[2late4u]

thanks see you later     maybe

[John/Horace]

So you used a group 26 with 540 ish cca  instead of a group 86 with 640 cca , cold cranking amps capacity.

 

If this was such a mismatch why could your starter motor the highest drawing item on car function, approx 200-300 amps on a cold day.  The main fuse on the battery positive terminal feeding the pim, and fuse boxes is around 125 amps, why didn’t that blow. There are all kinds of fuses that would blow if you are drawing too much amperage. They are there to protect components and prevent fires from overheated heated wiring and components. If the battery is not getting charged enough there is a clear dash warning and a code is stored. Negative terminal has a fancy temperature sensor which will see this problem. It often gets shorted with bad boosting polarity mix up.

 

Dealer was able to show you these stored codes ???

Would your alternator work its ass off and have accelerated wear, yes. New battery work harder with a shortened life, yes.  Would car maybe not start on a really cold day if lots of short trips with all  accessories running; yeah good chance with battery not recovering from enough charging.

 

A slightly undersized battery damaged two critical components in your car with a short ; the fuses didn’t prevent this.  Nope;  highly highly unlikely.

 

Now if you had a bad boosting incident and melted some charging cables; mmm that’s a different story.

Lots of weird damage happens this way, by accident. Fuse can’t always go fast enough.

Edited April 1, 2022 by John/Horace

[Edwards99]

BLUF:  Replace car battery with a battery from a Dodge dealer- about $200.

glasses

gloves

tire iron 4 way is easiest

Tire jack

jack stand

wheel chocks

Flat screwdriver

Body trim tool (two is better if you can get one under the other it’s easier to pull out the center pins on the plastic body rivets

13mm crescent

12mm regular size socket 

10mm regular size socket

Prayers

 

I have a 2015 Dodge Journey bought a replacement battery at Walmart a replaced it about a month earlier.   Family members said car was acting weird lights flickering, car dying in reverse.  Went to the gas station and headlights start flickering, interior lights come on then turn off, and my dash started to go on the Fritz, wouldn’t let me keep cruise control on, the dash looked like it was turning off then right back on, gauges dropping all the way left, then back right, it was driving fine but I thought maybe the battery terminal connections had worked loose because I drove it for a 6 hour trip the previous weekend with family and had no issues.  Now it’s acting like the positive terminal was just barely attached.  Go back home turn it off and waited five minutes.  Turned it back on and fine lights flicker a little but otherwise ok.  Drive to gas station get out come back and it’s fine.   Drive to drop some food off for 1 minute and I turn it off and when I come back it is absolutely dead.  No interior lights.  Doors won’t lock or unlock nothing.  Found this thread and hopefull for an on the spot solution but no resolution.  Used YouTube with mixed results. Checked fuses and all seemed ok.  Read that computers might be dead and cried a little inside.  Had to open the the center console remove the small plastic piece facing the front on the bottom right corner then used a pen to find this button thing that releases the stick shift that is located forward about 6” and 1 inch up feels like a tiny angled plastic clutch about 1”x1” square and rounded.  While pushing in I placed in neutral.   Without power steering wife was unable to turn the wheel so she pushed while I steered to back it out so I could get a tow strap on it.  I have a tow strap with a hook that hooked in well to this hole in a flat piece of steel directly center and under the engine about 4” wide and 1/4” thick and stayed there.  I could have wrapped it but I figured I would try this first and see if I heard wrenching metal noises - fortunately I never did although I was only traveling at about 5-10 mph. Also fortunately the tiny tiny tow vehicle has a perfect place behind her car that looked like an attachment point for the other end of the tow strap.  Did not bend the bumper although it might have if I used a truck or a higher vehicle to tow.  It was hard to brake and hard to steer but got on phone with wife to communicate while she pulled me to a nearby empty parking lot and left it there over night.  Key fob was dead so I locked all doors manually minus the rear hatch.   There is a key hidden in the key fob that you release by slideing this tiny button to the right and pulling on the silver part of the fob.  Tested the drivers door because it is the only one with a key hole and it worked before leaving it overnight.  Went to dealer the next morning and asked what battery it takes they gave me one and I changed it in the parking lot.  I forgot to write down the details on it in my haste but I recall that it had more CCA than the 26 battery I got from Walmart. 

I needed wheel chocks to keep it from rolling and brought along a jack stand to prevent bad things then when I took the wheel off I placed it halfway under the car beneath the drivers side door in case everything failed.  Hit the parking brake and broke the nuts loose on the left front tire.  Then jacked it up and removed the rest of the way.

removed the plastic panel forward of the wheel with a screwdriver to lift the plastic body pins screw looking things away from the rest of them then pulled them out with a body trim tool that looks like a screwdriver with a flat angled two prong fork crescent shaped loom to it while using a pair of needle nose pliers to  the center pin out enough that I could used the body trim tool to pry the center pin all the way out then repeated the process to separate the main plastic body trim pin out.   When removing the battery

Remove the nut holding down the bracket with a 13mm crescent wrench.  Tuck it up out of the way if you can.  The long screw looking thing has a 90’ angle at the bottom that lets you move it all the way out of the tray after you get it removed from the plastic bracket.  The plastic bracket has a similar thing behind the battery.

remove the negative(black) cable inboard first with a 10mm socket after you unplug the electrical thing attached to it.  Tuck it up out of the way but you may have to bend the cable a bit to do it.  Remove the positive red outboard cable with a 12mm cable and tuck it up too as far as you can.  There’s a ledge in the wheel well that I used.  If you don’t tuck these things up out of the way it’s going to be hard to take the battery out and put a new one in.

before you wrestle in the new battery remove the top plastic grid looking thing or fold down the hand or remove the handle all together.  twist it near the battery or angle it out the brackets for the handle near the battery will allow you to squeeze the handle out without cutting it.  Otherwise use wire cutters or a saw.  Grave each battery cable loosen the bolts as much as possible with taking them off and use a screwdriver to spread the mouth of the portion going over the new battery terminals

Replace the battery and loosely secure the mounting bracket.  When you replace the battery make sure the back of the securing bracket stays where it’s supposed to.  If you knock it out it is a pain in the butt to put back in place while the battery is there and you may have to start over by removing the battery.

connect the positive red outboard battery cable first then the negative black inboard cable last.  If you don’t you might damage the electronics.

reconnect the electronic sensor on the negative cable.

replace the plastic cover

 

I did these things and the car instantly responded to the key and I drove it home with no issues.   I’m guessing that the battery I used wasn’t good enough.  I’ll only use dealer batteries in the future.

Hope this helps!!!!

 

Edited October 29, 2022 by Edwards99
No edit

[Edwards99]

BLUF:  Replace car battery with a battery from a Dodge dealer- about $200.

glasses

gloves

tire iron 4 way is easiest

Tire jack

jack stand

wheel chocks

Flat screwdriver

Body trim tool (two is better if you can get one under the other it’s easier to pull out the center pins on the plastic body rivets

13mm crescent

12mm regular size socket 

10mm regular size socket

Prayers

 

I have a 2015 Dodge Journey bought a replacement battery at Walmart a replaced it about a month earlier.   Family members said car was acting weird lights flickering, car dying in reverse.  Went to the gas station and headlights start flickering, interior lights come on then turn off, and my dash started to go on the Fritz, wouldn’t let me keep cruise control on, the dash looked like it was turning off then right back on, gauges dropping all the way left, then back right, it was driving fine but I thought maybe the battery terminal connections had worked loose because I drove it for a 6 hour trip the previous weekend with family and had no issues.  Now it’s acting like the positive terminal was just barely attached.  Go back home turn it off and waited five minutes.  Turned it back on and fine lights flicker a little but otherwise ok.  Drive to gas station get out come back and it’s fine.   Drive to drop some food off for 1 minute and I turn it off and when I come back it is absolutely dead.  No interior lights.  Doors won’t lock or unlock nothing.  Found this thread and hopefull for an on the spot solution but no resolution.  Used YouTube with mixed results. Checked fuses and all seemed ok.  Read that computers might be dead and cried a little inside.  Had to open the the center console remove the small plastic piece facing the front on the bottom right corner then used a pen to find this button thing that releases the stick shift that is located forward about 6” and 1 inch up feels like a tiny angled plastic clutch about 1”x1” square and rounded.  While pushing in I placed in neutral.   Without power steering wife was unable to turn the wheel so she pushed while I steered to back it out so I could get a tow strap on it.  I have a tow strap with a hook that hooked in well to this hole in a flat piece of steel directly center and under the engine about 4” wide and 1/4” thick and stayed there.  I could have wrapped it but I figured I would try this first and see if I heard wrenching metal noises - fortunately I never did although I was only traveling at about 5-10 mph. Also fortunately the tiny tiny tow vehicle has a perfect place behind her car that looked like an attachment point for the other end of the tow strap.  Did not bend the bumper although it might have if I used a truck or a higher vehicle to tow.  It was hard to brake and hard to steer but got on phone with wife to communicate while she pulled me to a nearby empty parking lot and left it there over night.  Key fob was dead so I locked all doors manually minus the rear hatch.   There is a key hidden in the key fob that you release by slideing this tiny button to the right and pulling on the silver part of the fob.  Tested the drivers door because it is the only one with a key hole and it worked before leaving it overnight.  Went to dealer the next morning and asked what battery it takes they gave me one and I changed it in the parking lot.  I forgot to write down the details on it in my haste but I recall that it had more CCA than the 26 battery I got from Walmart. 

I needed wheel chocks to keep it from rolling and brought along a jack stand to prevent bad things then when I took the wheel off I placed it halfway under the car beneath the drivers side door in case everything failed.  Hit the parking brake and broke the nuts loose on the left front tire.  Then jacked it up and removed the rest of the way.

removed the plastic panel forward of the wheel with a screwdriver to lift the plastic body pins screw looking things away from the rest of them then pulled them out with a body trim tool that looks like a screwdriver with a flat angled two prong fork crescent shaped loom to it while using a pair of needle nose pliers to  the center pin out enough that I could used the body trim tool to pry the center pin all the way out then repeated the process to separate the main plastic body trim pin out.   When removing the battery

Remove the nut holding down the bracket with a 13mm crescent wrench.  Tuck it up out of the way if you can.  The long screw looking thing has a 90’ angle at the bottom that lets you move it all the way out of the tray after you get it removed from the plastic bracket.  The plastic bracket has a similar thing behind the battery.

remove the negative(black) cable inboard first with a 10mm socket after you unplug the electrical thing attached to it.  Tuck it up out of the way but you may have to bend the cable a bit to do it.  Remove the positive red outboard cable with a 12mm cable and tuck it up too as far as you can.  There’s a ledge in the wheel well that I used.  If you don’t tuck these things up out of the way it’s going to be hard to take the battery out and put a new one in.

before you wrestle in the new battery remove the top plastic grid looking thing or fold down the hand or remove the handle all together.  twist it near the battery or angle it out the brackets for the handle near the battery will allow you to squeeze the handle out without cutting it.  Otherwise use wire cutters or a saw.  Grave each battery cable loosen the bolts as much as possible with taking them off and use a screwdriver to spread the mouth of the portion going over the new battery terminals

Replace the battery and loosely secure the mounting bracket.  When you replace the battery make sure the back of the securing bracket stays where it’s supposed to.  If you knock it out it is a pain in the butt to put back in place while the battery is there and you may have to start over by removing the battery.

connect the positive red outboard battery cable first then the negative black inboard cable last.  If you don’t you might damage the electronics.

reconnect the electronic sensor on the negative cable.

replace the plastic cover

 

I did these things and the car instantly responded to the key and I drove it home with no issues.   I’m guessing that the battery I used wasn’t good enough.  I’ll only use dealer batteries in the future.

 

[2late4u]

i have NEVER used a dealer battery in either of my 2 journeys ,,,2011 and now 2014....just use a good quality battery correct CCA size and group size,and have never had a problem with them..clean terminals and tight as hell and then spray with battery post protection against corrosion

[TroyM]

On 7/17/2019 at 12:36 PM, nes593 said:

Hi, Yesterday went into gas station for gas. Turned off car and put gas. Went back in car and no power at all. Zero. Nothing came on. No dash, no beeps no horn, nothing. Push to start of course nothing. The only thing on in the whole car was the off light on the push button. Tried jumping with two three sets of cables and two other cars including tow truck and nothing. I have had the 2015 Journey for two years and have not changed battery or anything. Please help. Thanks

 

I just had the exact same thing happen to me. Absolutely no power to anything (headlights, horn, dash lights etc.) The  "off" light on the ignition push button would stay lit and the brake lights would work, other than that nothing.

 

I had the Journey towed to the Dodge dealership and they had to reprogram the radio frequency hub and recharged the battery. If the battery didn't hold the charge then they would have had to replace the battery as well. They said that piece of equipment can totally shut down if the battery charge dips below a certain level. Since I have had to replace a battery in that Journey a few years back and the hub didn't shut down at that time, I am guessing that this failure is a hit and miss kind of thing.

 

Hopefully, this helps anyone out there that is experiencing the same issue.