nnngn_zero Posted August 7, 2019 Report Share Posted August 7, 2019 (edited) Hello all. I have had an issue with my 2015 SXT with the 3.6L stalling and ECT putting the car into limp mode. The first time it showed up we were in the drive through at a McD. The car suddenly died and CEL, ECT, and Traction lights were on. When tried to restart it took longer than normal to start up. Also found out the battery was on its last legs. Replaced battery and drove it home with no issues. So I thought it may have been the battery. Also I put a code reader on it and there were 12 codes. Due to the dead battery I cleared them figuring they were related to the battery. About a week later, the ECT light returns but the car does not stall, and the car is in limp mode. Codes were p0642, one for gas pedal sensor correlation, and one for TPS correlation (I forget the number) Replace the gas pedal, and drive it home. Another week later the ECT light returned (again no stalling), so I drive it home in limp mode to troubleshoot. The codes were p0642 and TPS correlation. Since p0642 is sensor circuit reference voltage, I start checking voltage at all sensors on that circuit. When I get to the oil pressure sensor connector, I notice the 5v reference wire insulation has cracked and the wire had started to fray at the connector due to the sharp angle the connector wire was installed in. When I wiggle the wire with the car running, it stalls and the three dash light return. So I replaced the connector and all has been well so far (it has been 12 days without issue) Hope that helps anyone with similar issues. Edited August 7, 2019 by jkeaton larryl, Summer Solstice and Locosiete 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redtomatoman Posted August 7, 2019 Report Share Posted August 7, 2019 Thanks for the report. This may help others. Pictures of the frayed connector and pics of the location in the engine bay would also be helpful for those on this forum. Peace. jkeaton 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted August 7, 2019 Report Share Posted August 7, 2019 so many parts replaced due to bad connectors and frayed wires as well.yrs ago my daughter had problems with her caravan rubbing real bad one minuet then okay the next after a bunch of coils replaced it was found to be a bad connector that would work okay for a while then vibrate or short out and then work again till it went bad again and then short out the coil again but it was the wire ans connector that connected to the coil that was bad,we were just lucky the mechanic had bought a lifetime warranty on all his parts as he replaced that coil about 3 times before he seen the plastic connector looking deformed on the inside of the connector jkeaton 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nnngn_zero Posted August 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2019 Picture of connector wire attached. i don't have a picture of the location in the engine but it is under the intake in the valley between the heads. Remove the air filter box for ease of access. it is about 6" under the intake and is pointed straight out making it accessible if you have small enough hands. You can get a replacement wire harness from Mopar for $50 to $60 but you will have to remove the intake and oil cooler in order to replace all the wires, as the harness connects to the oil pressure sensor, oil temperature sensor, and the 2 knock sensors. i just purchased a replacement connector pigtail from NAPA who had it in stock (O'Reileys could order it, but Auto Zone and Advanced could not get it) and replaced the end. The bad thing about this connector going bad was the oil pressure display worked just fine and no codes were being thrown related to oil pressure sensor. Summer Solstice, jkeaton, 2late4u and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkeaton Posted August 7, 2019 Report Share Posted August 7, 2019 I'm going to pin this thread. This is good info. You may have stumbled onto something Dodge service techs can never figure out.... 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted August 7, 2019 Report Share Posted August 7, 2019 3 hours ago, nnngn_zero said: Picture of connector wire attached. i don't have a picture of the location in the engine but it is under the intake in the valley between the heads. Remove the air filter box for ease of access. it is about 6" under the intake and is pointed straight out making it accessible if you have small enough hands. You can get a replacement wire harness from Mopar for $50 to $60 but you will have to remove the intake and oil cooler in order to replace all the wires, as the harness connects to the oil pressure sensor, oil temperature sensor, and the 2 knock sensors. i just purchased a replacement connector pigtail from NAPA who had it in stock (O'Reileys could order it, but Auto Zone and Advanced could not get it) and replaced the end. The bad thing about this connector going bad was the oil pressure display worked just fine and no codes were being thrown related to oil pressure sensor. thanks for posting the pictures if more posters did this when they found their problems it would help others out so much jkeaton 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nnngn_zero Posted August 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2019 I had seen so many posts with symptoms similar to what my car had, I did not know if they all might be related issues. I hope this information helps someone else diagnose their issue. jkeaton, larryl, OhareFred and 2 others 2 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mossback49 Posted July 19, 2022 Report Share Posted July 19, 2022 I started to post a new topic concerning my 2012 2.4L stalling. But this post topic might fit my bill.It all began with the intake heater tee blowing apart and the engine over heating. Got codes P0304. After several weeks of replacing the lines, as I found new leaks, including the radiator hose filler neck, which had a crack in it and pulling the thermostat housing to reseal with new gaskets and formagasket, I got down to replacing several sensors as their codes would pop up. The camsensor on the back near the heat hose pipes that stick out from the thermo housing was toast....melted. Replaced and that code went away, then the crankshaft code started appearing, replaced that. (that one is a horror to do). Replaced the cam sensor on the front side near the fuel line, fuel rail connection when I got a P0000A Engine seemed to run better for a while, then started stalling again, not as bad. Tried cleaning all the connectors with electrical cleaner........that led to another nightmare I posted on electrical forum.........was thinking the cooling temp sensor needed replacing, but no codes.....I still get a stall or stumble (like theres water in the gas) when cranking up, it will just drop RPMS and returns to where it was. New plugs and coils by the way.........so I'm at a loss, until I read this post. Will check that and report back. By the way, the radiator filler neck I bought at Oreillys is made of some kind of thin plastic, similar to the original one and melted or should say, got hot enough that it started leaking and when I tighten the hose clamps it collapsed. Bought one on Amazon made of aluminum......no problems now. My opinion.....replace as you can all the connections made of plastic for the cooling system. IE: heater tees (hardware store brass plumbing tee with 2-3/4 and 1-1/2" barbs or Amazon has a complete setup of hoses w/tees made of brass) MX_67 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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