poindexter Posted November 24, 2019 Report Share Posted November 24, 2019 Hi All. I've been watching and trying to figure things out why my 2010 journey sometimes works and sometimes won't start.. People have said this and that but as for me??? try this... I was sick and tired of replacing that notorious undersized battery that fits in fender..... I was reluctant to drive the thing as I need it for work... but last week I needed it to get a lounge chair... so drove it to work and shut it off, went to work and came back to a dead battery... but the lights were bright, everything looked like it was ok but only 11.5 volts... I decided to pick up some #1 weld cable and run new cables to the b ack area and use a nice big battery... here is where it gets interesting... there were two wires on the ground ( one was from the battery), the Pos. wire? there were 3 wires two wires had voltage on it even when not connected so without looking inside the fender, I assume something was double connected, and without both wires connected the vehicle will not start.... I found this out as the wire that follows the Neg. which looks like it comes from the battery was connected to one side of the bolt and the others on the other side... with that other wire not connected, it acted like a dead battery , making the solenoid click like before... once connected , it was fine... but after checking the fender battery,, it was basically donea nd after a good charge, it only sat at just under 12 volts.... the alternator worked fine but did not get the juice to the battery, ( only a bit and not all the time), that is why it was intermittent..., the connections looked clean but does not take much to stop a flow... Just thought I would mention this.. I hope that's ok now... as I tried to find a drain and I am only drawing 14 ma which apparentely is fine... comments? feel free. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted November 24, 2019 Report Share Posted November 24, 2019 (edited) not sure on the 2010, but one of the battery cables also has a battery temperature sensor built into it and that if not working will keep the journey from starting as well.might want to check into that as a possible problem...good luck amazon this is what it looks like if you have one Chrysler Jeep Dodge Ram Battery Temperature Sensor Mopar OEM Edited November 24, 2019 by 2late4u spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Armando G Posted November 25, 2019 Report Share Posted November 25, 2019 I'm trying really hard to understand your post, but get lost. Are you saying you fixed the negative connection and it now works? Are you still using the "undersized battery"? jkeaton 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhareFred Posted November 25, 2019 Report Share Posted November 25, 2019 IDK. Replaced my OEM with an AutoZone equal a few years ago and never had an issue. If yours was undersized somebody put it there. If your car is operating correctly your battery will not drain. Find what’s causing the drain and stop blaming the battery.... jkeaton and 2late4u 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted November 25, 2019 Report Share Posted November 25, 2019 17 hours ago, 2late4u said: not sure on the 2010, but one of the battery cables also has a battery temperature sensor built into it and that if not working will keep the journey from starting as well.might want to check into that as a possible problem...good luck amazon this is what it looks like if you have one Chrysler Jeep Dodge Ram Battery Temperature Sensor Mopar OEM i believe this is on the positive cable jkeaton 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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