Travisxpeters Posted January 19, 2020 Report Share Posted January 19, 2020 Hey, I have a 2010 Journey, 2.4L, with approximately 195,000km. Lately I’ve been noticing some swaying coming from the rear end. It happens on the highway with gusts of wind, or in icy conditions, or when cornering. I’ve recently replaced the rear struts and upper control arms with the adjustable arms, as the wheels were cambered. The vehicle is still swaying and I figured I’d ask for some opinions on what to try changing out next. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryl Posted January 19, 2020 Report Share Posted January 19, 2020 How are the tires? Vehicles do have some "sway" in the conditions you describe jkeaton and 2late4u 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travisxpeters Posted January 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2020 (edited) @larryl Tires are 2 months old. The swaying is bad enough that it almost feels like you’re going to start fishtailing! Edited January 19, 2020 by Travisxpeters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted January 19, 2020 Report Share Posted January 19, 2020 3 hours ago, Travisxpeters said: @larryl Tires are 2 months old. The swaying is bad enough that it almost feels like you’re going to start fishtailing! was it swaying that bad before the new tires?, broken belts can cause some problems..other than that you have covered the rear problems that i can think of...what shape is the front struts and tires like? i am assuming you had a 4 wheel alignments done after installing the upper rear arms? Summer Solstice 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travisxpeters Posted January 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2020 (edited) 25 minutes ago, 2late4u said: was it swaying that bad before the new tires?, broken belts can cause some problems..other than that you have covered the rear problems that i can think of...what shape is the front struts and tires like? i am assuming you had a 4 wheel alignments done after installing the upper rear arms? I didn’t notice the swaying that bad before the tires were changed. There was some bad wear marks on the inner edge of the rear tires, so I got new tires all around. I had the alignment done afterwards and it was fine for a bit. What belts are you referring to? The front struts seem fine, but I’ll check them more thoroughly. Edited January 19, 2020 by Travisxpeters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travisxpeters Posted January 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2020 Would worn lower control arm bushings or sway bar links factor in? Im not sure how worn they are, but I’ve put on 80,000 km or so myself and haven’t changed any of the rear suspension parts besides struts and upper control arms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhareFred Posted January 19, 2020 Report Share Posted January 19, 2020 The tire has “belts” in them. As in Steel Belted Radial etc. Nothing that can be replaced, you need a new tire. Try going to where you purchased the tires, tell them your issue, see what they say. Also, are you sure they did a 4 wheel alignment, not just a front wheel? 2late4u, Summer Solstice and jkeaton 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryl Posted January 19, 2020 Report Share Posted January 19, 2020 1 hour ago, Travisxpeters said: Would worn lower control arm bushings or sway bar links factor in? Im not sure how worn they are, but I’ve put on 80,000 km or so myself and haven’t changed any of the rear suspension parts besides struts and upper control arms. Well yes they could but one would think these should have been inspected at the time also?? Summer Solstice and OhareFred 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Summer Solstice Posted January 20, 2020 Report Share Posted January 20, 2020 Don't assume anything when it comes to what was inspected. Bushing and sway bar links most differently would cause this problem. Make sure these things are inspected by a competent mechanic, not just a tire shop. While I like Discount Tire for taking care of my tire needs, they do not do anything mechanical. For that, I have to go elsewhere. Make sure that who you use for the inspection is properly trained and certified for this type of work. 2late4u and jkeaton 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travisxpeters Posted January 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2020 I purchased the rest of the bushings, control arms, and sway bar Links. I’m going to change them out this week and then bring it to a different shop for a wheel alignment and see if that fixes it. jkeaton and Summer Solstice 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhareFred Posted January 20, 2020 Report Share Posted January 20, 2020 Make sure it’s a 4 wheel alignment ?? 2late4u, jkeaton, Summer Solstice and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr and Mrs V Dunn Posted January 21, 2020 Report Share Posted January 21, 2020 I'm getting a,sway almost fishtail when I hit a bump like manhole covers etc is this normal for all wheel drive? Thanks jkeaton 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travisxpeters Posted January 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2020 (edited) I’m gonna be in the garage Friday and have an alignment scheduled for Saturday, so I’ll post an update then. If that fixes the issue, then @Mr and Mrs V Dunn may need to get the rear suspension looked at. Edited January 21, 2020 by Travisxpeters jkeaton 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr and Mrs V Dunn Posted January 22, 2020 Report Share Posted January 22, 2020 Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travisxpeters Posted January 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2020 I forgot to reply last weekend, but it was definitely the lower control arms that were the culprit. Once you disconnect the control arms from the knuckle, you can see how much they affect the camber of the wheels. 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phoenix1151 Posted February 16, 2020 Report Share Posted February 16, 2020 Interesting and timely read as my wife's 2012 Journey has started exhibiting similar little "shimmies", slightly detectable on dry pavement but particularly unnerving on snow & icy roads making it feel like its starting to fishtail. Neither of us feel comfortable driving it on other than dry roads. I already told her to make an appointment with her favorite garage to inspect things. jkeaton and Travisxpeters 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hankster Posted April 12, 2020 Report Share Posted April 12, 2020 I have the stability issue as well on my 2013. New tires helped, an alignment check showed that the front was good, the rear camber was close to the limit of negative camber. The toe was toed out past the limit. I checked the control arms and bushings, and found play in the inner bushings of the toe links. Before I attempt to replace these, has anyone done this? How about the adjustment cam bolts? Hank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted April 12, 2020 Report Share Posted April 12, 2020 when working on the rear the upper rear trailing arm is a non adjustable OEM part, the bottom ones are adjustable, i ended up going aftermarket with the upper ones as you can buy them so that they can be adjusted, they can be bought off amazon ,rock auto or most local part stores John/Horace 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hankster Posted April 12, 2020 Report Share Posted April 12, 2020 I'm looking for info on the toe adjustment cam bolts. I'm wondering if someone here has had any luck removing them without having to cut them off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted April 12, 2020 Report Share Posted April 12, 2020 You are in the rust belt ...Ontario so corrosion in suspension parts is horrible. PB blaster or other penetrating oil and let it sit over night. If still stuck Yellow cyclinder of gas is MPS I think they call it; hotter than propane although not up to acetylene worth a try. Use a 6 point socket or wrench not 12 point, they seem to grab better on seizes stuff. Sawzall or zip blade last resort I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hankster Posted April 13, 2020 Report Share Posted April 13, 2020 Thanks for the tips, parts are ordered. I soaked the bolts and will attempt next week. Hank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted April 13, 2020 Report Share Posted April 13, 2020 (edited) Another option is a nut splitter. It wrecks nut but doesn’t damage threads underneath. Princess Auto (Harbour Freight) and Canadian Tire carry them. Buying online from web site and pick up only, no store entry in my area, social distancing. Larger one is $25 at crappy tire regular price. Edited April 13, 2020 by John/Horace 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpginterceptor Posted April 25, 2020 Report Share Posted April 25, 2020 yup same car same problem and was told its common.. toe link, also called the lower forward lateral link! replace em both!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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