Engine light when very cold outside

[Shawn855]

Last winter when it was -40C (-40F), my 2016 journey 3.6L threw on the engine light. It disappeared after driving 50 or so kms and never returned until this morning. It was -30C (-22F) or so this morning and the engine light is on. I'm assuming it will go away again after driving a bit but curious as to what's throwing out the code. I remember reading somewhere how on the dodge rams, this same issue happens and it's the gas cap causing the issue. Any ideas for the dodge journey? 

 

PS: I ordered an OBD2 scanner to find out exactly what it is but it's going to take some time to arrive here and i'm a curious fellow and wanted your thoughts on this  

 

Thanks

Edited February 14, 2020 by Shawn855

[Shawn855]

Turns out my coworker has an ODB2 scanner. The code it gave was P0562 - System Voltage Low. I was always under the assumption that my battery was on its way out so I'll replace that come  summer time. Going to leave this post here in case it happens to anyone else. 

Edited February 14, 2020 by Shawn855

[2late4u]

43 minutes ago, Shawn855 said:

Turns out my coworker has an ODB2 scanner. The code it gave was P0562 - System Voltage Low. I was always under the assumption that my battery was on its way out so I'll replace that come  summer time. Going to leave this post here in case it happens to anyone else. 

make sure you have the alt checked and also the belt tensioner pulley as well of course at that temp everything is going to possible drag when trying to start, i would also get that battery load checked right away most part stores will check it and the alt for free. better safe than sorry by waiting till spring. good luck

[Shawn855]

32 minutes ago, 2late4u said:

make sure you have the alt checked and also the belt tensioner pulley as well of course at that temp everything is going to possible drag when trying to start, i would also get that battery load checked right away most part stores will check it and the alt for free. better safe than sorry by waiting till spring. good luck

 

Thanks, i'll check the battery tonight when i get home. I'll do a few simple tests while the car is off, running, and running under full load.  Hopefully it will give a hint as to what the issue may be. Already researching how to change the alternator just in case it's that. I'm also aware it could be corrosion on the terminals but again, it's too cold for me to do any work like removing the tire, and wheel well plastics to check the battery.

 

Note to self; invest in a garage. 

[2late4u]

1 hour ago, Shawn855 said:

 

Thanks, i'll check the battery tonight when i get home. I'll do a few simple tests while the car is off, running, and running under full load.  Hopefully it will give a hint as to what the issue may be. Already researching how to change the alternator just in case it's that. I'm also aware it could be corrosion on the terminals but again, it's too cold for me to do any work like removing the tire, and wheel well plastics to check the battery.

 

Note to self; invest in a garage. 

a load check can only be done at a garage or part store , you have to have a special tester for it. also at that low of temp it can also be the  Alternator Decoupler Pulley  could be going bad or dragging so many different things that could be happening, if its the org battery first id replace it right away wouldn't even bother checking it,then have  check the alt just to be safe

[John/Horace]

If your journey started at -40 without a block heater, your battery is probably still fine. My 2014 r/t  battery is still original and vehicle has 175k kilometers on it. Synthetic oil really helps with extreme cold starting IMO.

On an old school analog load tester is still showing over 400 cranking amps at approx 50 F.  The digital units at the parts  stores are definetly more accurate.

 

Just  changed daughter in laws 2012 original journey battery on a 2.4 (little easier to crank) at Xmas with Costco unit.

It was still functioning but she works shifts at a hospital, wanted to avoid problems. Old  battery gets recycled to my lawn tractor now.

I have to say I’m fairly impressed with the factory batteries; lots of power options on these cars as well.

 

Pick a warm day if you do change battery, lots of plastic clips to wrestle with. Not my favourite place to work on a battery in a slushy wheel well. The 2.4 had tons of room under hood without having to use wheel well. Soak the 9/16 nuts on the battery hold down bracket with PB Blaster spray half hour before starting job. They get pretty corroded from the road salt.
 

Old school battery tester picture.

 

 

Edited February 14, 2020 by John/Horace

[Armando G]

48 minutes ago, John/Horace said:

I have to say I’m fairly impressed with the factory batteries; lots of power options on these cars as well.

I am just curious, not calling you cheap or being mean (some of you will know why), but why didn't you get a factory replacement battery knowing it is a great battery. A battery that lasts 8+/- years would be worth a little more money. I've bought Costco batteries in the past and I have never gotten close to 8 years on them. 

 

As far as the OP, go get everything checked... as @2late4u states, "better safe than sorry".

Edited February 14, 2020 by Armando G

[John/Horace]

Cause I am .....cheap haa haa. I’ve had great results with Costco (Johnson Control) batteries  in the past. $120 price minus $10 recore and a 2 percent executive discount. Dealer last I checked would be almost double the price, and although  slightly better, probably wouldn’t last twice as long.

 

Good question.

[larryl]

Electrical systems on new vehicles now require a good battery or they really do bizarre things until they die a slow death not like the old days when the alternator would run everything once it started

[OhareFred]

I got 4 years out of my factory battery.  Replaced it with the biggest AutoZone top of the line and have no complaints.  Factory is not always best.  In my Jeep Cherokee people are getting 3 years on average and run away from the factory batteries,  

[Shawn855]

Tested the battery with the vehicle off, and it showed 11.5V. Safe to say my battery is the issue lol 

[2late4u]

 4 yr old battery, temps in the -30 of course. good luck and buy the best, longest warranted battery you can find. also some owners have commented of the battery trays being rusted out, might want to check on that while they are or you are changing it out...good luck

[John/Horace]

I’ve never seen a car start with a battery that measures 11.5volts.  You must be boosting it or your meter is inaccurate.

 

 Battery after 4 years pretty common. Not a lot of extra room on fender pedestal, get the right group number to fit.

[2late4u]

i remember when i was about 16 (yes that many yrs ago) we lived in Mi. and just before every winter dad and I would get the cars and truck ready for winter, put on the snow tires, new plugs,points, Plug wires every 3 yrs,check the many belts for cracks or rips,and every 2-3 yrs a new battery. shovel in the trunk with a bag of sand along side of it with the jumper cables as well. and always got  his advise to always back into a parking spot so in case you do need a jump at least the battery would be easy to get to....LOL  at least we always made it thur the snow storms.

[Shawn855]

I agree. It seems way too low. I'm waiting till it's a bit warmer out so I can check the battery voltage right from the posts. 

 

Would you happen to know the group number(s) I would need? 

[John/Horace]

Costco chart called it group 86 and it was identical dimensions and post orientation. Fit perfect. 

 

Usually I try to fit the biggest  battery  I can because they often charge the same for more cranking amp heavier battery. A larger stronger  battery gives longer reserve if lights on etc, sometimes lasts a little longer. 

Because of awkward location on this vehicle I didn’t bother.  Didn’t appear much room to spare.
 

Try to cleaning off the remote jump start terminals with wire brush/sand paper. Or scrape multi meter probes for better contact, you should be getting over 12 volts if  battery is still starting car. 

 The agm glass mat batteries like Optimum are supposedly quite good; better vibration resistance, lighter physical weight. Very pricy for cars; I’ve used them on my ATV with good results. Small charging magneto and running a winch for plowing makes it a tough application.

I use a special terminal spray to help prevent corrosion; seems to help. Sprayed on connections after install,  lightly. There are other options.

Edited February 17, 2020 by John/Horace

[Shawn855]

6 hours ago, John/Horace said:

Costco chart called it group 86 and it was identical dimensions and post orientation. Fit perfect. 

 

Usually I try to fit the biggest  battery  I can because they often charge the same for more cranking amp heavier battery. A larger stronger  battery gives longer reserve if lights on etc, sometimes lasts a little longer. 

Because of awkward location on this vehicle I didn’t bother.  Didn’t appear much room to spare.
 

Try to cleaning off the remote jump start terminals with wire brush/sand paper. Or scrape multi meter probes for better contact, you should be getting over 12 volts if  battery is still starting car. 

 The agm glass mat batteries like Optimum are supposedly quite good; better vibration resistance, lighter physical weight. Very pricy for cars; I’ve used them on my ATV with good results. Small charging magneto and running a winch for plowing makes it a tough application.

I use a special terminal spray to help prevent corrosion; seems to help. Sprayed on connections after install,  lightly. There are other options.

 

I just connected my odb2 scanner and it was also showing 11.5v with the vehicle off so I'm thinking it might be an accurate read. Once it started, it shot back up to 14.6 (thank god, did NOT want to deal with an alternator issue just yet). Again I'll check the battery posts come summertime but just reporting what I'm seeing. 

[probak118]

Dad was mechanic and  always covered battery posts with anti corrosion type spray too.As mentioned, not much room to move a can all around  in the wheel well area. Not sure if another coating I have seen done (Vaseline) is any good but never seen corrosion on that battery either. 

[2late4u]

13 hours ago, Shawn855 said:

 

I just connected my odb2 scanner and it was also showing 11.5v with the vehicle off so I'm thinking it might be an accurate read. Once it started, it shot back up to 14.6 (thank god, did NOT want to deal with an alternator issue just yet). Again I'll check the battery posts come summertime but just reporting what I'm seeing. 

i use that crc stuff as well,better then the little felt pads they sell at the part stores

[John/Horace]

If you are running ob11 scanner then there is probably quite a bit of load on battery still. I assume you have ignition in run position to retrieve data. The scanner itself is minimal, but when ignition is on for obd11 to function, fuel pump pressurizes system, often some on front lights, dash lights, big 8.4 screen etc will all draw  battery voltage down. The load of starting  car dips battery voltage quite a bit on all cars which is normal. 

 

Not all multi meters are perfectly accurate;  I have an old radio shack meter that in dc reads about 0.5 volts low, so not very useful for automotive trouble shooting.  Meter is probably 25 yrs old and banged around a lot. Try measuring with another meter if posssible.  Ignition off and nothing functioning you should be over 12 at the terminals with a decent charged battery. In my experience.

Never tried Vaseline on  battery  posts. Anything that is di-electric that doesn’t degrade plastic should be fine. Engine compartment  batteries  I think stay a little dryer and cleaner than our  wheel well location. Maybe part of increased battery issues.