keithisjonesn Posted March 24, 2020 Report Share Posted March 24, 2020 My 2015 SE (2.4L) threw a CEL that said it needed a Crankshaft Position Sensor. I changed it out and CEL reset. All runs fine but now I have a little engine sputter every couple of seconds. This sputter can be heard in the engine bay and also heard in the exhaust as if it might be a misfire. I have already changed the plugs and ignition coils so I know it can't be that. This only happened after the CPS was installed. I have read through the forum and some say it could be carbon build up but I don't see why it is all of a sudden after CPS change. My acceleration is smooth and it does not noticeably shutter while at cruising speed. Very few times, it has shuttered at cruising speed but not as often as at idle. I have put Seafoam in the tank and ran through a gas tank but no change. I have used 93 octane but no change. The mechanic showed on the computer that the crankshaft desired setting is the same as actual so there is no change there. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted March 24, 2020 Report Share Posted March 24, 2020 Did mechanic check for other engine codes ? Codes good starting point even if no light on dash. How many miles on car, I believe the oem plugs on the 2.4 are copper core on some years, so 50k mile approx change interval. Was it an oem sensor. Some Tec’s believe on critical components it’s better to buy a usually more expensive factory part. But if mech showed normal signal should be ok, what was his suggestion for engine stutter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted March 24, 2020 Report Share Posted March 24, 2020 1 minute ago, John/Horace said: Did mechanic check for other engine codes ? Codes good starting point even if no light on dash. How many miles on car, I believe the oem plugs on the 2.4 are copper core on some years, so 50k mile approx change interval. Was it an oem sensor. Some Tec’s believe on critical components it’s better to buy a usually more expensive factory part. But if mech showed normal signal should be ok, what was his suggestion for engine stutter? 2.4 plugs 30 k change interval Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Summer Solstice Posted March 25, 2020 Report Share Posted March 25, 2020 10 hours ago, John/Horace said: Was it an oem sensor. Some Tec’s believe on critical components it’s better to buy a usually more expensive factory part. But if mech showed normal signal should be ok, what was his suggestion for engine stutter? There was a fairly recent thread on here about some brand of plugs being more problematic that others on a Journey engine, don't remember which engine. Can't say that I would agree beyond the fact I have had issues like that in other vehicles over the years. I also recently had a peddle position sensor go bad on a Chevy Impala. I used an aftermarket from Autozone that did not solve the problem even though the recorded values were in range. An OEM from the dealer fixed the issue. In either case, I would also be looking for an intermittent connection. Check all of the plug wires and other related wiring for loose or dirty connections. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithisjonesn Posted March 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2020 UPDATE: The vehicle has 140K miles on it. I used AC Delco ignition coils from Auto Zone and had to replace one under warranty already after I installed them last year. But the update is, last night after driving around, a CEL came on. I got home and checked with a scanner and it showed Cylinder 1 misfire. P0016 and P0301 and it runs rough with a shutter more often. I am going to get some CRC intake cleaner to try and blow out the carbon from the pistons tomorrow and see if that fixes the misfire. I still don't see how this could have happened overnight after changing the CPS. It was not an OEM CPS as asked above. Funny thing is, the first one they installed had to be replaced because it threw the same code the next day. It was chalked up to "dead on arrival" part and warrantied. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted March 25, 2020 Report Share Posted March 25, 2020 Because crank cps code is still coming back I think it is the primary problem. It could be causing the cyclinder misfire when there isn’t really another problem. If you want to avoid throwing another part at it you could trouble shoot more. Mark the coil on cyclinder #1 then move it to cyclinder #2; clear code and drive car; if it comes back to #1 examine plug. Some electrical problems only visible on an osciliscope, mechanics don’t have these, more of an electronics tec thing. Cps seems to be an issue with the 2.4 at fairly low milage. My daughter in law just had an issue with her 2012 at 60k miles or 100k kilometres. She is 5 hrs away, local dealer decent so they changed it out. No further issues. Let us know if you figure it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithisjonesn Posted March 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2020 UPDATE on FIX: Ok so I bought a Mopar CPS for $28. Installed it and it still did the same thing. I bought some CRC Intake and Turbo cleaner ($14) from my local parts store and performed the "Professional" cleaning listed on the bottle. The vehicle runs like a champ now and no codes! Summer Solstice and 2late4u 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted March 27, 2020 Report Share Posted March 27, 2020 That’s great news it’s fixed. I use that same stuff on both my vehicles on the throttle body intake normally once a year. I’ve seen the same symptoms cleared by cleaning the mass air flow sensor. But you don’t have one, 2.4 is a map sensor design. Thanks for update, that’s how we all learn. Stay safe. Summer Solstice 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Summer Solstice Posted March 27, 2020 Report Share Posted March 27, 2020 2 hours ago, keithisjonesn said: UPDATE on FIX: Ok so I bought a Mopar CPS for $28. Installed it and it still did the same thing. I bought some CRC Intake and Turbo cleaner ($14) from my local parts store and performed the "Professional" cleaning listed on the bottle. The vehicle runs like a champ now and no codes! Let's hope it stays that way. Thanks for the update. 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithisjonesn Posted March 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2020 DID NOT STAY THAT WAY lol. The vehicle ran fine when I took it for a 15 minute test drive but the next morning, my wife started it up and drove it out of the driveway. It shuttered and threw another code. I read the code and it showed cylinder 1 misfire. So I ordered an ignition coil from my auto parts store and shipped it to my house. My wife installed it today and it works great so far. This is the second ignition coil made by Duralast that has been bad and I have had to replace. I bought the "Four pack" of ignition coils last year and within a month I had to swap out of the coils. Now I switched out my second one. In the end I think the issue was the ignition coil on cylinder 1, that misfired and threw the CPS off. From now on, I think I will order Mopar parts only for my Dodge when it comes to the engine. Thank you all for the help and advice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted March 28, 2020 Report Share Posted March 28, 2020 (edited) check your plastic wire connections on the coil and any wire that attaches to it,yrs ago my daughters caravan kept having the coil go bad every so often the mechanic would replace it under warranty but then sooner or later it would start to go bad making the van hesitate he finally found the wire inside the plastic connector was shorting out to each other, he replaced the connector and no more problem..............and yes some parts best to replace with mopar, auto chain parts say OEM but at times not really Edited March 28, 2020 by 2late4u Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Summer Solstice Posted March 28, 2020 Report Share Posted March 28, 2020 The bad peddle on my Impala, mentioned in my previous post, was also a Duralast. Since using a dealer provided OEM, no more problem. The wire connector suggestion is the next place to go if the problem comes back. 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted March 30, 2020 Report Share Posted March 30, 2020 (edited) Thanks for more follow up info. Even oem can be an issue sometimes. Hyundai accents where shipped with junk coils a few years back. Their Korean assembled cars are often 30 percent Japanese content, Nippodenso etc usually decent stuff. At least on a four cyclinder they are easy to change out, so it’s tempting to save a buck. See if your china brand is better than the potential oem China part. My 2009 f150 had a very annoying speaker rattle a few years ago. Pulled it out to change it to see a big China stamp on part. A vehicle with a 980k plus annual production and still out sourcing from North America, ouch. Good point about the connectors, which can be bought separately on the 3.6. One of mine came apart during plug change. Used a Standard Motor products part, Mopar out of stock on Rockauto. Might regret that move eventually. Use proper dielectric grease on connectors when installing. If spending over a $100 ask dealer parts guy for mechanics price, I often get 10-20 percent. Edited March 30, 2020 by John/Horace Error Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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